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  • #16
    A very small system can use 12V. Once your loads start to increase (and they always seem to) the 24V system will look better and better
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by terracore View Post
      Maybe I'm missing something but wouldn't the 12/24 question be answered by the inverter you wish to use?
      Yes and no. No because I'm keeping the system DC only. However, occasionally there is a need to power or charge something that runs AC and I'd prefer not to run a generator for it if small enough. Since I have a pile of small 12v inverters I could continue using them if the system is 12v.

      Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
      A very small system can use 12V. Once your loads start to increase (and they always seem to) the 24V system will look better and better
      The chances of the system being expanded much more is very slim. The whole point of the place is to get away from the rest of the world, so there will never be run of the mill AC based stuff (TVs, microwaves, vacuum cleaners, etc.).

      Pretty much everything important I have in hand (system + appliances) can run either 12v or 24v, therefore I can switch it around if need be. However, a number of smaller things drawing electricity off of the system are 12v and new needs are more likely to be 12v only. Even though the solutions for these things aren't complicated or expensive, if I can avoid another layer of stuff to buy and eventually replace that would be ideal.

      Unless there's some reason 12v is not a good idea for my particular panel, distance, wire gauge, etc. setup then I'm thinking 12v @210Ah is the way to go for my batteries.

      Steve

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      • #18
        If you are set on 12V, get a rock solid inverter like the Morningstar Suresine 300 (600w surge for 10 min)
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

        Comment


        • #19
          One final question. I couldn't find anybody that makes a MC4 connector to fit 6AGW. I guess not too surprising. Anybody see any problems with this proposed work around?

          1. Purchase Y extensions, tie two panels together, snip the connector off of the single leg side
          2. Tie the snipped ends of the two Y extensions to the 6AGW ends inside a weather proof junction box
          3. On the controller side, land the 6AGW into a cuttoff box and run leads from the box to the controller

          Steve

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by SolarSteve View Post
            One final question. I couldn't find anybody that makes a MC4 connector to fit 6AGW. I guess not too surprising. Anybody see any problems with this proposed work around?

            1. Purchase Y extensions, tie two panels together, snip the connector off of the single leg side
            2. Tie the snipped ends of the two Y extensions to the 6AGW ends inside a weather proof junction box
            3. On the controller side, land the 6AGW into a cuttoff box and run leads from the box to the controller

            Steve
            That should work, although you'll want to use a listed splice connector to join the 8 AWG from the Y extension to the 6 AWG wire. The one I used to connect 4 AWG conductors from my inverter to 6 AWG that would fit into a breaker at my main service panel had a rectangular metal box with two setscrews and a clear plastic sheath that slides over the box once you tighten them down. What I'm calling a "box" is really a short length of pipe with a rectangular cross-section, probably tinned copper or something.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by SolarSteve View Post
              One final question. I couldn't find anybody that makes a MC4 connector to fit 6AGW.
              There is if you know where to look.

              Anderson
              MSEE, PE

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                There is if you know where to look.

                Anderson
                Heh... well, sorta! It's not a 6 AGW MC4 connector, which is what I was looking for, but a two part solution. Didn't think to look for something like that, so big thanks for pointing me too it. Better than a homemade solution for sure. It also addresses BackwoodsEE's point about making sure the joining connection between the two is solid. This will work great!

                Thanks!

                Steve

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by SolarSteve View Post

                  Heh... well, sorta! It's not a 6 AGW MC4 connector, which is what I was looking for, but a two part solution. Didn't think to look for something like that, so big thanks for pointing me too it. Better than a homemade solution for sure. It also addresses BackwoodsEE's point about making sure the joining connection between the two is solid. This will work great!

                  Thanks!

                  Steve
                  I use 60Amp Anderson connectors to "plug in" my 600W PSW inverter. Much better that using a wire terminal strip.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

                    I use 60Amp Anderson connectors to "plug in" my 600W PSW inverter. Much better that using a wire terminal strip.
                    Andersons are not water tight, but they get a lot of low voltage use around here. Bruce Roe

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Good to know. I'll make sure it's locked up tight in a water tight box because it will be exposed to the elements.

                      Steve

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by bcroe View Post
                        Andersons are not water tight, but they get a lot of low voltage use around here. Bruce Roe
                        That it is not entirely accurate. Perhaps you are not familiar with Anderson product line?

                        Example you can buy an Environmental Boots, or Spec Pack Sealed Connectors.


                        MSEE, PE

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                          That it is not entirely accurate. Perhaps you are not familiar with Anderson product line?

                          Example you can buy an Environmental Boots, or Spec Pack Sealed Connectors.
                          Right, there are more options being added that I haven't kept up with. However the basic product
                          line (that I first used in 1964) had no provision for shedding water.

                          Show us the water resistant 90A connector. Bruce Roe

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by bcroe View Post

                            Right, there are more options being added that I haven't kept up with. However the basic product
                            line (that I first used in 1964) had no provision for shedding water.

                            Show us the water resistant 90A connector. Bruce Roe
                            You are correct the standard Anderson fittings are not water tight. I do have rubber boots but they are used when I have unplugged the two ends to keep anything from shorting out the terminals.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by bcroe View Post

                              Right, there are more options being added that I haven't kept up with. However the basic product
                              line (that I first used in 1964) had no provision for shedding water.

                              Show us the water resistant 90A connector. Bruce Roe
                              OK they go from 5 to 260 amps.
                              MSEE, PE

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                                OK they go from 5 to 260 amps
                                That looks like they took the basic product and created a waterproof cover for them.

                                Here the very basic type solves all sorts of medium current connect problems. Quite affordable, foolproof
                                polarization, and genderless. 50A and 175A sizes cover my 12V motorized stuff. Bruce Roe


                                Anderson50A.png

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