Need Opinions on running Cat5 into house

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  • GRickard
    replied
    By the way, the blank fits on the inside so it can't be removed when there is a meter seal on the base.

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  • GRickard
    replied
    It should. The power company is not gonna use a B-line meter. The hole is universal.

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    A Milbank cover will fit a B-Line 011?

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  • GRickard
    replied
    You can buy one for less than $10. Just google "Milbank blank cover".

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  • SunEagle
    replied
    Most POCO's are happy with just a piece of cardboard covering the meter terminals.

    You should see my new meter pan. They didn't even add the cardboard. Lucky for me we have not had any rain the past week or so.

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    I looked at it both ways and again agree with Foo1bar however I decided not to cut the RJ45 off until I needed to if it wouldn't go thru- but it did. The factory connection is probably better than mine (and I have punched down quite a few over the years) plus cat5e has tighter specs than the old cat5. If I have to replace it ... no big deal.

    Well then, y'all are definitely gonna like my closing cover for my meter- ya think the inspector will have a sense of humor?



    Trying to find a closing cover (among other things) is not that easy - if everyone needs one why are they not listed very often?
    AND just to make sure it is water/dust resistant - a paint can gasket allows for a pressure fit and seal....



    Gives a whole new meaning to "Put a Lid on it".... Looks good to go to me.
    Last edited by Syberdog; 11-08-2017, 11:05 AM.

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  • foo1bar
    replied
    Originally posted by GRickard
    You just made every electrician (craftsman) cringe. I hope you never need to replace that cable.
    An LB might be the way an electrician would do it since they would look at it as a normal conduit.
    But since this is really just an aesthetic sleeve for a CAT5 cable, I don't think there's any safety issue here.

    An electrician might do conduit similar to this (probably not crushing the end), as a sleeve to a decent depth providing the aesthetics and protection from damage.
    Then no conduit, just direct buried out to the other spot it comes out of the ground.

    If it needs to be replaced, I'd cut the conduit and wire near where it starts to bend up. and remake the bent section. (although just heating the crushed end probably will have it spring back to round.)


    I definitely would NOT try to pull an RJ45 through the conduit - you can put the ends onto a cable for so cheap it's not worth messing with that.

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  • GRickard
    replied
    You just made every electrician (craftsman) cringe. I hope you never need to replace that cable.

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    Since I had the hole already drilled I decided to try the method suggested by Foo1bar but couldn't find a pot big enough to put the conduit in.... so I used a hair dryer instead. I figured at most it would cost me 1.50 to try it. I was surprised how easily the conduit deformed and I got a pretty decent 90 bend and flattened the end to fit snug up under the stucco. Getting the wire in thru the hole was not so easy but it finally popped thru. Even though cat5 is pretty tin cable, I'd recommend using 3/4" instead of 1/2" if it has a RJ45 connector on it and there are any bends- I had it hang up on a 45 angle so I can imaging what adding a 90 or two would be like. Here is the result of bending and mashing. Since I got it thru I decided to keep it and will fill the end of the conduit and wall when I have it 95% done.



    Relieve the down-line trench and it will snug up to the foundation. Gotta drill a hole and maybe get a full strap.



    Thanks for the idea Foo1Bar...

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    It's good to have that alternative method to chew on, your right about the aesthetics of a blob hanging on the front wall- I have a LB in the workshop so I can look at em both before deciding. I might even be able to flatten the conduit to fit up in the gap space a little.

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  • foo1bar
    replied
    I'd put the conduit right up to the bottom of the ledge.
    I probably would form up the PVC myself rather than use a pre-formed 90 like it looks like you're doing.
    Boiling water gets PVC warm enough to bend. And you can bend a 90 into a PVC conduit and leave plenty of extra length on the end so that you can trim it to be exactly where you want.

    I'd probably use a little caulk to seal things up. (both top of the conduit and the hole into the house.)

    And then paint it to match the adjoining area.

    I'm mostly just looking at it from an aesthetic view.

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  • AzRoute66
    replied
    Just email AzRoute66biz@yahoo.com

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    Thanks, I Definitely could use some help - this is my first solar and the end of the year deadline is coming fast...all the digging is done- hw do I send you a PM with contact info?

    Al

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  • AzRoute66
    replied
    Then we are neighbors. I live near Buffalo Soldier and St. Andrews. Let me know if you need a hand with any part of it (except the digging). I generally have more spare time than is good for me, although this week I am kinda ramping up with projects in preparation for an elk hunt starting in the middle of the month.

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  • Syberdog
    replied
    Stucco can be a PITA to work with. I much prefer it with OSB behind as that gives you some support to attach to. When I hung my Meter and Disco I found a stud for the top center screws and then used plastic expanding anchors (concrete rated) with epoxy They feel solid..
    We must be neighbors... I'm 3 miles from the border near Sierra Vista
    Last edited by Syberdog; 11-05-2017, 10:16 PM.

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