My New 7.56KW Ground Mount.. First Light, First Watts..

[max2k]

UPDATE:
Just had my electrical inspection!! Everything approved.. Now its time for DTE to get their part done...

congrats!

Just curious- have you ever figured that shocking problem?

[Murby]

UPDATE:
Just had my electrical inspection!! Everything approved.. Now its time for DTE to get their part done...

[Murby]

Just wondering so the disconnect box mounted at the rack has the #4 going to it then did you run #6 to the inverter in the seal-tite as the inverter terminals only take #6? Did you run a #4 neutral also or did you downsize that?

I am putting in a similar system and I am up in the air on going AC to barn or mounting the inverter in the barn and taking DC to barn.

The 4ga wire I purchased is a multi-conductor cord.. and industrial odd-ball you would never find in any normal hardware store. Its one cord and contains three 4ga copper conductors, plus four 12ga copper conductors, plus a 6ga bare ground wire. The cord is rated for outdoor use, direct sunlight, hazardous locations, and direct burial in hazardous locations. Its something like $12/ft and I bought 200 feet of it for $150 or something like that.

The small gray box mounted next to the inverter is an outdoor 125 amp 8-space circuit breaker panel... I ran the 4ga into that, then mounted a 30 amp breaker, and ran the 6ga from the breaker to the inverter through the flexible conduit.

In my case, one of the nice things about having the outdoor breaker box there is that I can install extra breakers later on.. I plan to install a 120 breaker and put some yard lights above the solar array to light up the back yard... I can then use the 12ga wires (not currently needed for anything) to run a switch into the house.

Along with the lighting, I also plan to put up an IP Camera and the network junction box will allow me to put an ethernet switch so a single Cat5 line can be used for both the inverter communications and the IP Camera. (But all that is down the road a bit)

[wienerdog]

Just wondering so the disconnect box mounted at the rack has the #4 going to it then did you run #6 to the inverter in the seal-tite as the inverter terminals only take #6? Did you run a #4 neutral also or did you downsize that?

I am putting in a similar system and I am up in the air on going AC to barn or mounting the inverter in the barn and taking DC to barn.

[Murby]

I agree with sensij. Replace the GFCI with a standard breaker.

As for having the itch to check out your system. I understand. Just be aware that some of the POCO meters do not subtract the power you generate and goes to the grid without first being programmed by the POCO . The issue is that some of the old meters will continue to charge you for each kWh it sees going in either direction because it doesn't know better to subtract what is sent to the grid.

Sure test your system but be aware you may actually be paying for what you send out until the Net Metering system has been approved and set up by the POCO.

Looks like I'll be replacing the gfci breaker then.

I'm aware of the meter issue.. thanks!

[SunEagle]

I haven't actually be certified to do so yet.. I haven't run the DC lines for the other 5 columns.. just got the first two hooked up and... well.. you know.. I had to scratch that itch to see it work.

I have a smart meter on my home and it displays current usage and it was showing we were using between 700 and 1000 watts of power.. The computers were on, dish washer running, laundry running, and my kid was watching television on and off.. So I figured if I let the system generate 500 to 800 watts it wouldn't hurt anything or even really go into the grid since the house was sucking it all up.
Besides, I'd rather send an extra few hundred watts of free power into the grid rather than have to pay for it coming into the house...

Woke up with a bit of surprise this morning.. Do solar systems not get along well with GFCI breakers? I installed a GFCI breaker for the solar system to backfeed and found it tripped this morning.. A glitch? Or do I need to replace it with a normal breaker?

I agree with sensij. Replace the GFCI with a standard breaker.

As for having the itch to check out your system. I understand. Just be aware that some of the POCO meters do not subtract the power you generate and goes to the grid without first being programmed by the POCO . The issue is that some of the old meters will continue to charge you for each kWh it sees going in either direction because it doesn't know better to subtract what is sent to the grid.

Sure test your system but be aware you may actually be paying for what you send out until the Net Metering system has been approved and set up by the POCO.

[sensij]

Woke up with a bit of surprise this morning.. Do solar systems not get along well with GFCI breakers? I installed a GFCI breaker for the solar system to backfeed and found it tripped this morning.. A glitch? Or do I need to replace it with a normal breaker?

Replace it with a normal breaker, your inverter has the necessary ground fault protection built in.

For a decent explanation of why you will get false trips, take a look at this:

http://solarprofessional.com/articles/design-installation/ungrounded-pv-power-systems-in-the-nec/page/0/6

[Murby]

That is an impressive ground built system. Looks very professional and my hat is off to all involved.

One question. How are you able to just energize only a part of the system and connect it to the grid?

I would have thought that the POCO would want the entire system wired and inspected before it got connected to the grid but each POCO and AHJ do things differently.

I haven't actually be certified to do so yet.. I haven't run the DC lines for the other 5 columns.. just got the first two hooked up and... well.. you know.. I had to scratch that itch to see it work.

I have a smart meter on my home and it displays current usage and it was showing we were using between 700 and 1000 watts of power.. The computers were on, dish washer running, laundry running, and my kid was watching television on and off.. So I figured if I let the system generate 500 to 800 watts it wouldn't hurt anything or even really go into the grid since the house was sucking it all up.
Besides, I'd rather send an extra few hundred watts of free power into the grid rather than have to pay for it coming into the house...

Woke up with a bit of surprise this morning.. Do solar systems not get along well with GFCI breakers? I installed a GFCI breaker for the solar system to backfeed and found it tripped this morning.. A glitch? Or do I need to replace it with a normal breaker?

[idnominal]

I'm seriously considering not bothering with most snow clearing this year. Last year was my first winter following September turn-on, and I especially wanted to see production numbers through the winter (cleared after almost every snow, including one pretty funny half roof avalanche with 30" of snow). Now, it looks like I can make (May - August) as much power as I will need (Nov - Feb) in credits (with a bit of a surplus) going into this winter. Grid tied, March anniversary, no carry-over in NY.

28 LG 315s, Enphase S280s, similar in size to OP, much smaller than bcroe (WOW!). My pic is nearby community solar farm, my Chevy VOLT not my installation.

Almost forgot, Congrats to the OP, beautiful looking installation!

[bcroe]

I'm in Michigan so we do get snow.. sometimes a lot of it.. It was a consideration during the design phase as someone in this forum was complaining that arrays which are too low in the front can be problematic when shoveling snow off them.
I didn't want anything to be within 36 inches of the ground.. Mostly for worry due to the lawn mower.. but the snow piling up was another huge consideration.

In northern IL I have placed a gap between upper and lower panels (8" is good) for snow. It
means that only a fraction of the snow will accumulate in front. In addition you will only be
pushing half as much snow half as far to clear the panels, and increase the tendency of panels
to clear themselves. Cut my cleaning time to less than half. good luck, Bruce Roe

PV16D3.JPG

[SunEagle]

That is an impressive ground built system. Looks very professional and my hat is off to all involved.

One question. How are you able to just energize only a part of the system and connect it to the grid?

I would have thought that the POCO would want the entire system wired and inspected before it got connected to the grid but each POCO and AHJ do things differently.

[AzRoute66]

Thanks for sharing the photos. Always nice to see the dirty details, especially when someone else is dealing with them.

[Murby]

Thanks for the pictures; very neat, super solid. I was wondering if you get snow?

Nice driving those wooden layout stakes. I have to use steel T posts cause the
wood has too much difficulty with all our rock (by the Rock River). Even then
sometimes they won't go down; have to move them over a bit. Bruce Roe

I'm in Michigan so we do get snow.. sometimes a lot of it.. It was a consideration during the design phase as someone in this forum was complaining that arrays which are too low in the front can be problematic when shoveling snow off them.
I didn't want anything to be within 36 inches of the ground.. Mostly for worry due to the lawn mower.. but the snow piling up was another huge consideration.

[J.P.M.]

FWIW, I suspect few could do as well. Looks fit for purpose.

[bcroe]

Thanks for the pictures; very neat, super solid. I was wondering if you get snow?

Nice driving those wooden layout stakes. I have to use steel T posts cause the
wood has too much difficulty with all our rock (by the Rock River). Even then
sometimes they won't go down; have to move them over a bit. Bruce Roe