About to install LG300A1C-B3 300W AC microinverters, got some Q's

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  • AaronG
    replied
    Looking at the manual for the SE6000-US it shows
    Maximum AC Output = 6000w
    Recommended Maximum DC Input Power = 7500w

    It's next to impossible to see 300x21 at 6300 DC watt output from my panels (input to the inverter). There will be loss along the path and loss inherent in the inverter. So even *IF* I had 6300W going to the inverter and the inverter output 6000W that would be 95% efficient. My reason thinks that if there was more panels like 23-25 and we were pushing 7k+ area we could see possible clipping. but at 21, it seems highly unlikely we'll ever run in to this, right? I am still totally within the recommended maximum DC input (7.5kWh).

    Also, I have a 20-year warranty on the inverter. Sure I'd love it to last long after I am dead (I am only 36), but after a replacement I think It'd prob long outlast me in this home. I plan to retire to the Caribbean before I am 60, hahah

    Also I dont see the SE7000-US anymore directly on SE site. It may be an older product? If you look on their site here, it isn't listed:


    Also, this PDF doesnt show it either:

    Any thoughts guys?

    Leave a comment:


  • thejq
    replied
    Originally posted by AaronG
    I can't really fit any more panels than this on my roof, so I wont be expanding the system in the future. Perhaps if I am in the home 20 years from now and panels are cheap as hell (unlikely) producing 600w a panel, then we'd toss out the whole system and replace it. But ya, as far as thinking that maybe I go to a 7600 because I may add more panels, isn't happening.

    It sounds like I am OK with the single 6000. Thank you!
    The next step up which is SE7000A-US is about $100 more http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solaredge.html. If you really want a peace of mind and maybe somewhat better longevity, it's worth considering.

    Leave a comment:


  • AaronG
    replied
    Originally posted by inetdog
    In general, because the panel array will rarely if ever produce its full STC rated output, some overpanelling of the inverter (like 6300 into 6000) should not be a problem. The question is what the next size up of SE inverter is and what the cost difference is. I would definitely not recommend a system with two SE string inverters just to avoid clipping.
    I can't really fit any more panels than this on my roof, so I wont be expanding the system in the future. Perhaps if I am in the home 20 years from now and panels are cheap as hell (unlikely) producing 600w a panel, then we'd toss out the whole system and replace it. But ya, as far as thinking that maybe I go to a 7600 because I may add more panels, isn't happening.

    It sounds like I am OK with the single 6000. Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • inetdog
    replied
    Originally posted by AaronG
    Been a while, got a question for anyone who may have an idea here. I so truly appreciate your input.

    I am reviewing the plans submitted for 21 LG300N1C-B3 panels at 6.3kWh system.
    The company is specifying the use of:
    Inverter = Solar Edge SE6000-US
    Optimizers = Solar Edge P300

    So I wonder. Is this SE6000-US appropriately sized for 6300W system? Do I need a larger one since I am not 6000W? How about those Power Optimizers, are there many models. Is this the one to go with?
    In general, because the panel array will rarely if ever produce its full STC rated output, some overpanelling of the inverter (like 6300 into 6000) should not be a problem. The question is what the next size up of SE inverter is and what the cost difference is. I would definitely not recommend a system with two SE string inverters just to avoid clipping.

    Leave a comment:


  • AaronG
    replied
    Been a while, got a question for anyone who may have an idea here. I so truly appreciate your input.

    I am reviewing the plans submitted for 21 LG300N1C-B3 panels at 6.3kWh system.
    The company is specifying the use of:
    Inverter = Solar Edge SE6000-US
    Optimizers = Solar Edge P300

    the P300 power optimizer seems like the right way to go. It shows it on their site and seems to be correct. Any input beyond that?

    The inverter I wonder though, its 6000w right? Yet my system is 6300w? Any concerns? I see the next step up unit is the 7.6kWh system. Does it mean that *IF* my system was absolutely perfect and each panel did indeed generate 300W and I was at greater than 6000W that it would cut off the extra 300W? I assume that will (can never) never happen to generate 300W per panel at 100% efficiency, but I do wonder about this whole sizing thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • inetdog
    replied
    Originally posted by sensij
    In other words, structural costs are eligible to be included in the solar property costs. Your CPA / tax lawyer can help you figure out how to apply that in the best way for your situation, but roof structures are *not* explicitly excluded.
    Those bureaucratic double and triple negatives keep tripping people up.
    No expenditure relating to a solar panel or other property installed as a roof (or portion thereof) shall fail to be treated

    Leave a comment:


  • Hillsider
    replied
    Less than $500 for equal LG panels

    Originally posted by AaronG
    I got 4 quotes. Two were not on the same kind of level. Then these two without even bidding them against each other came down to less than $500 for equal LG panels. Then the way the one company (Sun Craft Solar) got my business was the promise of these LG AC panel, which the other guy said he couldnt get until at least 2015. Now part of me second guesses that if I am on the SW side. On the NE side either micro-inverters or the power optimizers is needed beacuse part of the day my chimney will case a shadow over a few panels.

    I really think I am going to go with the SW option and move my thermal. 0.00% change of any shade from anything, so not as critical there.
    I was following your thread, until it got off on roof issues. You said "2 guys came down to less than $500 for equal LG panels". Did you mean less than a $500 quote for the LG300A1C panels for your project? I still cannot find any pricing for those panels, without "biting" on Gogreensolar's preorder trap ( no prices, just an invitation to sign up for 4 or more of the panels ). Have you received any mote updates from your bidding contractors or their site engineers? Multi-distributor availability of the panels in early 2015 is no problem for me, as I am still negotiating with trenching and/or electrical sub-contractors, for the conduit run from my field-array site to the back of my house.

    Leave a comment:


  • thejq
    replied
    Originally posted by sensij
    I realize this isn't totally related to the thread, but I didn't want to let this misinformation go unanswered. The relevant text from your link is this:

    In other words, structural costs are eligible to be included in the solar property costs. Your CPA / tax lawyer can help you figure out how to apply that in the best way for your situation, but roof structures are *not* explicitly excluded.
    Ok, I just reread it again. Maybe you're right -- now I'm not so sure any more. Thanks for pointing out.

    Leave a comment:


  • sensij
    replied
    Originally posted by thejq
    I'm almost certain I was right regarding roof.

    Page 94, under solar panels, the text explicitly excluded roof, because it's part of the structural component.
    I realize this isn't totally related to the thread, but I didn't want to let this misinformation go unanswered. The relevant text from your link is this:

    (2) Solar panels
    No expenditure relating to a solar panel or other property installed as a roof (or portion thereof) shall fail to be treated as property described in paragraph (1) or (2) of subsection (d) solely because it constitutes a structural component of the structure on which it is installed.
    In other words, structural costs are eligible to be included in the solar property costs. Your CPA / tax lawyer can help you figure out how to apply that in the best way for your situation, but roof structures are *not* explicitly excluded.

    Leave a comment:


  • russ
    replied
    Originally posted by PVAndy
    All of what I've been reading in this thread is not the way panels are really rated. Full sun is not a definition of irradiance.
    If you read what is on the site it says that - many times over.

    Some things get shortened such as the term "sun hours" which allow the newbie to understand more easily.

    Leave a comment:


  • J.P.M.
    replied
    Originally posted by PVAndy
    All of what I've been reading in this thread is not the way panels are really rated. Full sun is not a definition of irradiance.


    Solar Panel manufacturers use what is called Standard Test Conditions (STC). This means they put the solar panels in a flash tester in their factory that has been calibrated to deliver the equivalent of 1000 watts per square meter of sunlight intensity, hold a cell temperature of 25'C (77'F), and assume an airmass of 1.5. This flash test gives them their STC ratings.

    Note that in real life the cell temperature is considerably above ambient temp. Typically 30 degrees C, Also remember that the airmass comes into play.

    You will virtually never be operating anywhere close to STC.

    You may find the following interesting which I copied and pasted here.

    PTC refers to PVUSA Test Conditions, which were developed to test and compare PV systems as part of the PVUSA (Photovoltaics for Utility Scale Applications) project. PTC are 1,000 Watts per square meter solar irradiance, 20 degrees C air temperature, and wind speed of 1 meter per second at 10 meters above ground level. PV manufacturers use Standard Test Conditions, or STC, to rate their PV products. STC are 1,000 Watts per square meter solar irradiance, 25 degrees C cell temperature, air mass equal to 1.5, and ASTM G173-03 standard spectrum. The PTC rating, which is lower than the STC rating, is generally recognized as a more realistic measure of PV output because the test conditions better reflect "real-world" solar and climatic conditions, compared to the STC rating. All ratings in the list are DC (direct current) watts.

    Neither PTC nor STC account for all "real-world" losses. Actual solar systems will produce lower outputs due to soiling, shading, module mismatch, wire losses, inverter and transformer losses, shortfalls in actual nameplate ratings, panel degradation over time, and high-temperature losses for arrays mounted close to or integrated within a roofline. These loss factors can vary by season, geographic location, mounting technique, azimuth, and array tilt. Examples of estimated losses from varying factors can be found at: http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/codes_al...TS/system.html.
    All of what you write and more is correct.

    However, all of what you write and more has little to do with vendor's often, usual and common method(s) of estimating annual production, which was my point.

    The most common method used by vendors, if my experience and that reported by others on this forum, and if my conversations with vendors are close to reality, has been to use PVWatts with the default system derate factor of .77. This method, besides being simplistic, and ignoring the particulars of a situation, some of which you write about, almost always results in oversizing a system by underestimating performance due to that default number being unrealistically low for probably most situations, and in any case, not representative of the actual situation except by luck.

    What vendors most often do has little if anything to do with either STC, PTC or other methods of testing or rating performance of solar equipment or other particulars as you describe.

    Standard test methods for solar equipment are somewhat analogous to EPA fleet mileage for vehicles. Your performance will vary depending on conditions.

    The way most vendors use PVWatts is somewhat analogous to bastardizing an EPA mileage rating for a vehicle by estimating mileage while towing a trailer for the purpose of selling a bigger vehicle. In the solar case however, most customers can't see and are not aware of the trailer or the deception.

    Things you mention and others are more of what a thorough analysis and estimate of system performance would include but is usually and conveniently ignored - that deception allowed largely because of the solar ignorance of most customers.

    Perhaps the new PVWatts will reduce some of what, IMO, is a deceptive and dishonest but common misuse of information.

    My apologies to the honest peddlers who do not do misuse information in the way I describe.

    Leave a comment:


  • control4userguy
    replied
    Originally posted by AaronG
    My roof is now 22 years old. I brought this up and they state that my roof should be in fine state and since the tiles are concrete that it should continue to last a lot longer. I worried about this, but I guess it is one of those things that since you've never had a leak or issue, its tough to replace the whole thing when it works well.

    But yes item for discussion relating to the tax credit. Thanks.
    That could be an incorrect assessment of your roof. The tiles themselves are not what prevents water from entering the structure. The paper layer below it is. Ask any roofer, that layer lasts maybe 20 years.

    Leave a comment:


  • PVAndy
    replied
    Originally posted by J.P.M.
    I"d suggest the above is perhaps another of many examples of vendor estimates of performance being way low to observed performance.
    All of what I've been reading in this thread is not the way panels are really rated. Full sun is not a definition of irradiance.


    Solar Panel manufacturers use what is called Standard Test Conditions (STC). This means they put the solar panels in a flash tester in their factory that has been calibrated to deliver the equivalent of 1000 watts per square meter of sunlight intensity, hold a cell temperature of 25'C (77'F), and assume an airmass of 1.5. This flash test gives them their STC ratings.

    Note that in real life the cell temperature is considerably above ambient temp. Typically 30 degrees C, Also remember that the airmass comes into play.

    You will virtually never be operating anywhere close to STC.

    You may find the following interesting which I copied and pasted here.

    PTC refers to PVUSA Test Conditions, which were developed to test and compare PV systems as part of the PVUSA (Photovoltaics for Utility Scale Applications) project. PTC are 1,000 Watts per square meter solar irradiance, 20 degrees C air temperature, and wind speed of 1 meter per second at 10 meters above ground level. PV manufacturers use Standard Test Conditions, or STC, to rate their PV products. STC are 1,000 Watts per square meter solar irradiance, 25 degrees C cell temperature, air mass equal to 1.5, and ASTM G173-03 standard spectrum. The PTC rating, which is lower than the STC rating, is generally recognized as a more realistic measure of PV output because the test conditions better reflect "real-world" solar and climatic conditions, compared to the STC rating. All ratings in the list are DC (direct current) watts.

    Neither PTC nor STC account for all "real-world" losses. Actual solar systems will produce lower outputs due to soiling, shading, module mismatch, wire losses, inverter and transformer losses, shortfalls in actual nameplate ratings, panel degradation over time, and high-temperature losses for arrays mounted close to or integrated within a roofline. These loss factors can vary by season, geographic location, mounting technique, azimuth, and array tilt. Examples of estimated losses from varying factors can be found at: http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/codes_al...TS/system.html.

    Leave a comment:


  • J.P.M.
    replied
    Originally posted by thejq
    Yeah, exactly what he (above) said. The rated wattage is measured at ideal conditions, eg direct and full sunlight, low temperature etc. In the 1/2 month that I have owned my system, I have seen it once that the instantaneous power was close to the rated power. With that said the LG300 panels have been phenomenal. According to pvwatt, at my location, my 4.8KW system with premium panel, 0% loss, 96% efficiency, should produce 651 KWh in the month of September. So far from 09/06 - 09/18 (13 days), it produced 320 KWh. If that average holds, I will be looking at 738 KWh for September or about 13% higher than estimate. So if you're mounting it facing SW like mine and use LG300 panels, you should be plenty happy with the results. Don't get too hang up on the instantaneous power numbers.

    Since no one has the LG300A1C panels installed, you will be the first to tell the story on how well they work, if you decide to go that route.
    I"d suggest the above is perhaps another of many examples of vendor estimates of performance being way low to observed performance.

    Leave a comment:


  • thejq
    replied
    Yeah, exactly what he (above) said. The rated wattage is measured at ideal conditions, eg direct and full sunlight, low temperature etc. In the 1/2 month that I have owned my system, I have seen it once that the instantaneous power was close to the rated power. With that said the LG300 panels have been phenomenal. According to pvwatt, at my location, my 4.8KW system with premium panel, 0% loss, 96% efficiency, should produce 651 KWh in the month of September. So far from 09/06 - 09/18 (13 days), it produced 320 KWh. If that average holds, I will be looking at 738 KWh for September or about 13% higher than estimate. So if you're mounting it facing SW like mine and use LG300 panels, you should be plenty happy with the results. Don't get too hang up on the instantaneous power numbers.

    Since no one has the LG300A1C panels installed, you will be the first to tell the story on how well they work, if you decide to go that route.

    Leave a comment:

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