Mounting feet install went bad. Need advice how to fix it.

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  • mkramskoi
    replied
    I finally got to fixing shingles around feet. I do it myself since installer refuses to fix it the way I want.
    I do it similar to the way pipe flashing is done, except I don't remove each foot, but sandwich it between shingle it is already siting on and new one on top with a slit cut for sticking part of the foot.
    It's a very slow process since I have to use heat gun and bread knife to separate the shingles.
    You can see how it looked before and after on attached pictures.
    Attached Files

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  • J.P.M.
    replied
    Originally posted by mkramskoi
    Thanks everybody for replying! I really liked " I'd run then off the job". I trust contractors too much, that's my problem. Good lesson for me.

    But what I'm really interested is your opinion on technical question I stated originally. What's wrong (if any) with applying standard flashing technique used for pipe flashing to solar mounting feet? I think it's reasonable. May be not practical for existing roof, but better water protection.
    Assuming your last post is directed to me, my opinion was and remains that, for a lot of reasons, the best collector array supports are those that look a lot like, and can be treated as roof penetrations. That is, sticking out of and mostly normal to a roof surface.
    One of those reasons is so that a collector support can be flashed in the same manner as any other roof penetration of that type.
    That then has several attributes I'd consider advantageous, a couple of them being that the technology to flash that type of penetration has been around as long as people have been poking holes in what they want to be a tight barrier and that means a technology that's stood the test of time (provided it's done correctly and professionally).

    The idea that double flashing is better than single flashing is a matter of some opinion, but for my money, it's cheap insurance provided it's done correctly and that's always been my opinion with respect to collector supports and flashing methods.

    The idea that fairly recent (of the last 10-15 years or so) developments in collector supports were done - IMO only - more for the installers "benefit" (read cheaper and easier with little thought to professionalism and a good job) with the result of less barrier integrity. Also, that's perhaps one of the reasons why there are more problems with roof leaks caused by collector supports.
    All that seems a bit ironic to me when considering the relatively high number of roof penetrations an array requires compared to the total number of penetrations in a common roof as well as the relative inaccessibility and limited visibility for inspection of any collector supports.
    Those things would seem to me to indicate the need for a lot of care in the engineering, design and assembly of array supports and their flashing.
    The new(er) support methods are a bunch of B.S. and the chickens will may or are already coming home to roost.
    Last edited by J.P.M.; 07-03-2024, 11:42 AM.

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  • mkramskoi
    replied
    Thanks everybody for replying! I really liked " I'd run then off the job". I trust contractors too much, that's my problem. Good lesson for me.

    But what I'm really interested is your opinion on technical question I stated originally. What's wrong (if any) with applying standard flashing technique used for pipe flashing to solar mounting feet? I think it's reasonable. May be not practical for existing roof, but better water protection.

    Leave a comment:


  • J.P.M.
    replied
    Originally posted by mkramskoi
    J.P.M., you're generally right. I don't intend to do it myself if I can. Installer screw up twice already. First time they installed wrong feet and I ended up with multiple leaks. After long talks and wait they finally agreed to redo it with correct ones. Now they installed correct feet, but damaged shingles and installed them incorrectly. They might (I hope) make 3rd attempt to fix it, but this time I need to know exactly what needs to be done and how. Otherwise I fear they screw it up 3rd time. That's why I'm trying to figure out the best action plan like I would do it myself and make them to stick to it.

    Thanks everybody for your input,
    Mikhail
    Before any third attempt at a fix by that contractor, I'd ask them to explain their proposed latest fix and how that method will produce either the same a better result than accepted standard practice as you understand it.

    Then (if I was my home/job and I hadn't done so already), if I wasn't convinced of their ability to provide a leak proof job, I'd run then off the job.
    I've had to do that in the middle of other home improvement projects as well as needing to do that with subcontractors on projects when I was a project engineer or project manager. It really sucks all around.
    Doing so can get expensive but sometimes parting company is a better decision for the sake of the project (or a home).
    That's the biggest single reason why vendor selection is so important as I've railed about around here for years in lots of prior posts.

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  • mkramskoi
    replied
    J.P.M., you're generally right. I don't intend to do it myself if I can. Installer screw up twice already. First time they installed wrong feet and I ended up with multiple leaks. After long talks and wait they finally agreed to redo it with correct ones. Now they installed correct feet, but damaged shingles and installed them incorrectly. They might (I hope) make 3rd attempt to fix it, but this time I need to know exactly what needs to be done and how. Otherwise I fear they screw it up 3rd time. That's why I'm trying to figure out the best action plan like I would do it myself and make them to stick to it.

    Thanks everybody for your input,
    Mikhail

    Leave a comment:


  • J.P.M.
    replied
    I'd make the installer who screwed it up (re)do it right and fix their foul-up.

    By giving direction you accept responsibility for the fix and remove all of it from the installer.

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  • mkramskoi
    replied
    Shingles are 7 years old and in very good shape. They are Timberline HD. Adhesive they have is very aggressive, it's very difficult to break the seal without damaging the shingles. That's exactly what contractor did. I regret not stopping him in time.

    I would install feet according to Iron Ridge instructions, but since they are not installed correctly now I have a choice either reinstall them by drilling new holes in rafters slightly higher or reuse existing holes and do what I described in the original post. I have reservations about drilling another set of holes one inch next to existing ones.

    Mikhail

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  • Mike 134
    replied
    How old are the shingles? I used the flashfoot system on my install over my garage and am very happy with it. Installed per Iron Ridge's instructions.

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  • Mounting feet install went bad. Need advice how to fix it.

    Contractor screw up mounting feet install. (IronRidge Flashfoot2)
    1. They damaged shingles above trying to peel them apart.
    2.They incorrectly positioned them when lower edge of the flashing is lower then the edge of the first row of shingles. It suppose to be above it.
    You can see it on the picture attached.

    I want to fix it by following steps:

    1. Unscrew and remove each foot with flashing.
    2.Remove damaged first and second raw of shingles.
    3. Install each foot back reusing the same screw hole but UNDER the first row of shingles cutting shingle the same way it would be done for pipe flashing installation. (see second picture example)
    4.Install removed shingles.

    Since this is the way all pipe flashing is installed I think it's more watertight then installation recommended by manufacturer.

    Question.
    Does it make sense? Any objections/advice?

    Thank you in advance,
    Mikhail.

    Attached Files
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