48V COSUPER inverter/charger setup

[PNW_Steve]

The prices are about 3 years old, that's a screen shot of a spreadsheet. $330 Trojan L16RE-A 325 AH Deep Cycle Battery, 6 volt, is the price I show today

Darn!

I was getting excited.....

[Mike90250]

The prices are about 3 years old, that's a screen shot of a spreadsheet. $330 Trojan L16RE-A 325 AH Deep Cycle Battery, 6 volt, is the price I show today

[PNW_Steve]

Mike..... Are you buying Trojan L-16's for $225?

If so, could you share your source?

The least expensive L-16's I have found are Duracell for $280. I suspect that the Trojan is a notably better battery.

[Mike90250]

Max load will be 1000watt/hours with the coffee maker but only for short period of time. May even run geny when using that. But all other times max load is around 750watt/hours for about 2-3 hours a day.

Only reason we like the 12v is because we have a 150w panel and rest are 100w, so have a separate controller for it, and it's 12v. But we probably won't go over 750w pv now.

other times max load is around 750wh x 3 hours = 2250wh . To achieve that and keep batteries marginally healthy, you need 4 Golf Cart batteries, wired for 24V, with a total capacity of about 4560wih
Or 2 L-16's, but now you are into serious $






BatteryWattHourCapacity.jpg

[Johnny123]

Max load will be 1000watt/hours with the coffee maker but only for short period of time. May even run geny when using that. But all other times max load is around 750watt/hours for about 2-3 hours a day.

Only reason we like the 12v is because we have a 150w panel and rest are 100w, so have a separate controller for it, and it's 12v. But we probably won't go over 750w pv now.

[PNW_Steve]

IMHO: 1000 watts is on the high end for a 12 volt system. I would lean strongly towards a 24 volt system.

If you went 12 volt and then decide to add capacity you may find yourself having to upgrade to 24 volt at additional expense.

[Mike90250]

What is your usual load on the inverter ? Can you supply the load with 2 batteries, or do you need 4 ? 1kw is generally tops with 12V, after that, 24v becomes more feasable, but each install is different with different load profiles.

[Johnny123]

That's good to know. I was wondering why they never put the amp hours on it , only cca even though being a deep cycle marine.

would you use a 12v or 24v system with a 1000w solar system and 1000w inverter? Thanks

[PNW_Steve]

Also the battery is a marine deep cycle battery, but it lists the 800 cca for some reason. Purchased at tsc , not automotive starting batteries.

The "marine deep cycle" batteries sold at the big box stores are not true deep cycle batteries. They are a hybrid. A compromise between starting and deep cycle.

On a budget you may want to look at GC2 golf cart batteries. They are the best bang for your buck if they fit your application.

[Mike90250]

Wiring a meter & shunt, is not how you've described . There should be instructions and schematic with the meter you get. Many meters come with their own shunt, others, you have to buy a shunt.

That's why I like clamp on DC amp meters. you don't have to break into any wiring to use them. They start around $90. Be sure they measure DC AMPS, a marketing ploy is to trick the unwary with words, that it measures AC volts & amps & DC

[Johnny123]

Also the battery is a marine deep cycle battery, but it lists the 800 cca for some reason. Purchased at tsc , not automotive starting batteries.

[Johnny123]

Hi, thanks for that! We do plan on doubling size of pv and battery bank, as to why we went with this inverter. But for the rest of this year this is what we have and generator does most of work now. ( its a cottage we only use spring to fall so June to October) . Our max load requirements will be around 2.5kw/h a day for 2-3 hours .

any chance you can answer how to wire a meter with shunt from our panels to inverter charger? Because it's a combo unit, I'm not 100% sure how. Would the negative line from pv run to shunt and then to negative line to inverter for pv. The positive line of meter just run to positive terminal of battery? Thx

[Mike90250]

48V batteries & controllers need at least 65V from the solar on a hot day, so you may need the PV wired to 75 or 80V. If you have a real MPPT controller, you may need 90V to get into the efficient operating range.

Automotive starting batteries (with CCA spec) are poor choices for off grid, they do not withstand long periods of discharge and a short fully charged period.

For a 48V system, you have a very small battery and solar, coupled with a huge inverter. The most your system can sustain is about a 500w inverter. the internal losses of a 3Kw inverter will usually be quite high.

Before buying any more stuff, you need to work out a power budget and see what you should be aiming for, not just getting things because some sales man has a good haircut.

Start here:

https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum/off-grid-solar/off-grid-solar-panel-systems/14114-sizing-off-grid-systems-and-using-gen-support

and then here:

https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum/off-grid-solar/off-grid-solar-panel-systems/1954-how-many-batteries-why-tutorial

[Johnny123]

• Cosuper SPS3000-48M

[Paul Land]

What is the model ## cosuper?