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Separating shingles for flashing.

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  • Separating shingles for flashing.

    Went on the roof to lay out the rail footing. I noticed the shingles on my 8 yr old roof are stuck together really well. Is there a trick to separating the shingles to get the flashing between ? I've read that its better when they are cool and the last thing I want to do is damage good shingles. I've seen this tool used but Amazon won't ship to CA for some reason. https://www.amazon.com/Dasco-Pro-640.../dp/B000BQS5QO
    Should I lay a blanket over the area since its sunny here in Northern Ca and do it early in the AM ? Will a wide putty knife do the job ?

  • #2
    shingles have a dot of heat glue at the tips, to prevent them from curling up. on a really hot day, that stuff should soften up a bit and then ease the shingles apart.

    As for the tool, Nanny State Kalifornia always knows best, that's why you can't buy a lot of nice toys anymore.

    The Time has come for 51 The new state of Jefferson .https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeffer..._Pacific_state)
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    • #3
      After listening to the solar mounting guys at a solar conference one time, I called a couple shingle manufacturers and found that they don't appreciate you breaking the seal on shingles. In fact they view it as voiding the warranty. Let me know if you can get those flashings in without pulling the shingle nails up in there. The shingle makers really like that.
      BSEE, R11, NABCEP, Chevy BoltEV, >3000kW installed

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      • #4
        The adhesive used on shingles is designed to melt when heated up by the sun and when the shingles are soft they lay down and stick together. I would either wait till mid day on a warm sunny day or carefully warm them with a torch. When warm shingles are easily scarred so you need to be careful, walking lightly and not bending the tabs when lifting. A hot 6" drywall taping knife would help also. The key here to be careful to not damage or scar them when hot. I always used a length of 30# felt to stand on when it's hot out to prevent damage. A large piece of cardboard would probably work as well but on steeper pitches may be difficult to keep on the roof.
        Nowadays I guess you have to use fall arrest gear. Back when I was roofing it was non existent. It seems a little ridiculous on the lower pitch roofs.
        Last edited by littleharbor; 08-01-2017, 09:08 AM.
        2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
          As for the tool, Nanny State Kalifornia always knows best, that's why you can't buy a lot of nice toys anymore.
          What does "Nanny State Kalifornia" have to do with UPS and/or Amazon being unable/unwilling to ship it?
          I can buy the same thing from Grainger and pick it up today.
          Or from Home Depot and pick it up in a few days.

          The Time has come for 51 The new state of Jefferson .
          LOL
          This would be a really really poor justification .

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          • #6
            Its pretty rare if anyone can collect on a roof warranty. Most warranties have so many requirements and exclusions that the manufacturer usually has an out.

            I have the similar shingle tool and its works fine but I do find that roof temp makes a big difference. The warmer the better. I have in the past used a heat gun.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by jmargo View Post
              Went on the roof to lay out the rail footing. I noticed the shingles on my 8 yr old roof are stuck together really well. Is there a trick to separating the shingles to get the flashing between ? I've read that its better when they are cool and the last thing I want to do is damage good shingles. I've seen this tool used but Amazon won't ship to CA for some reason. https://www.amazon.com/Dasco-Pro-640.../dp/B000BQS5QO
              Should I lay a blanket over the area since its sunny here in Northern Ca and do it early in the AM ? Will a wide putty knife do the job ?
              That tool is meant to reach up under concrete or clay tiles and snag the nails that hold them at the top edges; usually used when replacing broken tiles. You seem to be describing asphalt composition shingles, so that tool is of no use. If you did snag a nail and yank it out you would rip the shingle it is securing.

              These tools are better suited to the job.:
              https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3318-1...s=flat+pry+bar
              https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Palett...=paint+spatula

              The ideal tool to separate the shingles is a thin blade like a paint spatula or even a long-bladed putty knife if its blade has rounded corners, that you would slide under the bottom edge of warm shingles at an angle and slice laterally through the "glue" near the bottom edge of the shingle you intend to slip flashing under. Warm shingles will be soft and pliable enough not to break as you gently pry them up.

              You should not have to go any higher than one course with the flashing up under your shingles. Gently pry up the next course of warm shingle above in order to expose the nails holding the shingles that will overlap the flashing and remove them with a flat bar slid under the shingle they are holding down. They will be a little way up from the lower edge of the next shingle. Use a block of 2x4 to place under the upper shingle to hold it out of the way while you remove the nails.

              After the flashing is in place, nail through the shingle and flashing next to the old nail holes to re-secure the shingle and, of course, the flashing itself. The nails will be covered by the shingles above, but you will want to dab the nail heads and the old nail holes with Henry"s asphalt adhesive. A little bit of Henry"s asphalt adhesive (in a tube, applied with a caulking gun) will work very well to re-"glue" the lower edge of the disturbed shingles after you are done. A bead of Henry's under the exposed sides of the flashing can't hurt.

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              • #8
                Awesome. Thanks all for the help. Pallets arrived today.

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