Flashing on asphalt roof

[Dsspro]

I am in MN and have an 6-7 year old roof that was 4 bundle per square 35 year rated shingles (not that they ever last that long.

When speaking with an installer they said they just Silicone instead of the flashing as it damages the shingles and they don't reseal or can cause damage and need to be re nailed unless it's a brand new roof.

Im planning on ordering flashing as it's not that expensive but it did make Me nervous when looking at the roof yesterday.

Anyone run across this when installing?

[sensij]

I'm not sure there is a "good" way to punch dozens of holes in your roof. At least one installer who is active in this forum has questioned the complications of a flashing system in a way similar to what you've described.

In any case, silicone wouldn't be my first choice for a sealant.

http://solarprofessional.com/articles/design-installation/pitched-roof-racking/page/0/2

[J.P.M.]

One rule I use for roof penetrations: If I can see a penetration, it'll leak. To be safe, I double flash every roof penetration and check every detail. Other systems may be acceptable, but a caulked penetration by itself that's not protected is an invitation to a leak. The primary protection for roof penetrations should come from systems and designs that keep water from reaching the penetration in the first place. Caulking/sealing should be carefully done and checked with attention to detail, but that's the second line of defense. Flashing systems are the first.

[peakbagger]

Find another installer. Goop is not a permanent fix. I have lifted many an older shingle in the past and rarely have I had an issue.

[sensij]

Some more discussion in this thread:

https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum...282#post262282

Solarix in particular has a lot of respect around here, and makes the same points that your installer is making. Doesn't mean I agree (I'd require flashing on all penetrations in my roof, for reasons J.P.M. has stated), but there does seem to be room for disagreement on this without questioning anyone's intention to make a reliable, fit for purpose attachment.

[Dsspro]

I read that post and a few others like it, I long time ago I installed satellite systems and ran lag bolts with silicone under the base without leaks and probably put up a few thousand.

I ordered the flashing and plan on using them, however I ran up to the roof and those shingles are stiff and glued tight.... I might have to warm them up and try again.

[solarix]

Ok, I'll go through it again.
1) according the NRCA - a roof penetration is defined as a skylight, plumbing vent, conduit etc - not a fastener.
2) sealant by itself is not to be trusted as well as exposed fasteners. (Like what we see all the time on satellite dish installs)
I recommend a compression seal - adhesive sealant compressed and protected by a mounting foot that is big enough (at least 3") to cover generously exploratory holes.
Our experience is that using solar flashings on asphalt shingle roofs is very damaging. Breaking the shingle seal as well as pulling nails (as called for by the flashing manufacturers) is explicitly forbidden (and violates the warranty) by the shingle manufacturers I've talked to. Good luck on not ripping shingles when jamming in flashings I say.
My opinion is that flashings are damaging to shingles, cost more, and take more labor and that traditional "L-feet" are a problem because they are too small at 2" or less wide.
I also recommend using a Bosch Detect 150 "radar gun" to accurately locate roof framing members. (pretty expensive for a DIY job - but how expensive is a leak?)

[adoublee]

I recommend a compression seal - adhesive sealant compressed and protected by a mounting foot that is big enough (at least 3") to cover generously exploratory holes.

Compressed as soon as sealant is applied? Have you posted any pictures of your method?

[Dsspro]

Ok, I'll go through it again.
1) according the NRCA - a roof penetration is defined as a skylight, plumbing vent, conduit etc - not a fastener.
2) sealant by itself is not to be trusted as well as exposed fasteners. (Like what we see all the time on satellite dish installs)
I recommend a compression seal - adhesive sealant compressed and protected by a mounting foot that is big enough (at least 3") to cover generously exploratory holes.
Our experience is that using solar flashings on asphalt shingle roofs is very damaging. Breaking the shingle seal as well as pulling nails (as called for by the flashing manufacturers) is explicitly forbidden (and violates the warranty) by the shingle manufacturers I've talked to. Good luck on not ripping shingles when jamming in flashings I say.
My opinion is that flashings are damaging to shingles, cost more, and take more labor and that traditional "L-feet" are a problem because they are too small at 2" or less wide.
I also recommend using a Bosch Detect 150 "radar gun" to accurately locate roof framing members. (pretty expensive for a DIY job - but how expensive is a leak?)

Thanks for the insight!

have you tried the Bosch D-Tect 120 before?

[solarix]

The D-Tect 150 is the only thing I've ever tried that works on a roof.

[Dsspro]

The D-Tect 150 is the only thing I've ever tried that works on a roof.

Ordered it, looks like a great tool... HD changed their shipping to compete with Amazon and it should be here Thursday!

Would you mind posting a picture or emailing me one of a L bracket installed with your method? Being in a warm climate vs snow and ice would you change your approach?

Thanks again!

[emartin00]

Ok, I'll go through it again.
1) according the NRCA - a roof penetration is defined as a skylight, plumbing vent, conduit etc - not a fastener.
2) sealant by itself is not to be trusted as well as exposed fasteners. (Like what we see all the time on satellite dish installs)
I recommend a compression seal - adhesive sealant compressed and protected by a mounting foot that is big enough (at least 3") to cover generously exploratory holes.
Our experience is that using solar flashings on asphalt shingle roofs is very damaging. Breaking the shingle seal as well as pulling nails (as called for by the flashing manufacturers) is explicitly forbidden (and violates the warranty) by the shingle manufacturers I've talked to. Good luck on not ripping shingles when jamming in flashings I say.
My opinion is that flashings are damaging to shingles, cost more, and take more labor and that traditional "L-feet" are a problem because they are too small at 2" or less wide.
I also recommend using a Bosch Detect 150 "radar gun" to accurately locate roof framing members. (pretty expensive for a DIY job - but how expensive is a leak?)

Not all manufacturers recommend removing nails. Many recommend you simply cut a small notch in the flashing to fit around the nail.
I had no problem installing 30+ flashings on my parents roof without ripping any shingles.
Breaking the seal isn't really damaging it. As the seal is created simply by the heat of the sun. As soon as it warms up again, it will reseal.
In a climate where snow and ice are common for 4-5 months, I want every protection possible, and sealant isn't enough.