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I'm wondering how you accomplish the correct tie in for a solar system on a mobile home. I have a meter base --> 100 amp disconnect --> indoor circuit breaker panel 100amp. The 100 amp disconnect is mounted to a board with a pole along with the meter base. Is there some piece of hardware I can buy that would give me the lugs to tie in the inverter? I saw they have a an entire meter base from Siemens that allows you a 60 amp circuit for solar. I don't know what would be necessary to change the meter base since the power company is in charge of that. I believe the homeowner pays for the base though. I am not really sure with OGE. Thanks for any information.
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You can usually get a conversion kit from the manufacturer of the disconnect that allows you to put two wires on each input terminal instead of just one.
Most POCOs will not allow you to make your line (supply) side connection in the meter base.
That makes it very hard to do a line side connection when what you have is the main disconnect and the meter base combined from the factory into a single unit referred to as a meter main.
The line side tap would have to be made to the internal bus bars of the meter main, since there are no open wires from the meter base to the input side of the main breaker.
Is your PV system small enough (say 20A at 240V) that you can connect it on the load side of the main disconnect? That would include connecting it via a backfed breaker to the 100A indoor panel.
PS: The NEC treats mobile homes differently from standard homes in that the main disconnect is not allowed to be mounted to the home itself, either inside or outside, but must be on a post, pole, or building separate from the mobile home.Last edited by inetdog; 11-05-2016, 03:12 AM.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels. -
I gather from what you are saying that I could just swap disconnects or retrofit the one I have. I don't have any equipment yet. I wanted to get the 240v hardware set up for the solar input before I went purchasing more hardware. I was just looking for advice as to which is the best way to go about this. I'm guessing I would need an enclosure for the inverter or do they make outdoor rated inverters? The meter main I was looking at is sold here: https://w3.usa.siemens.com/powerdist...e_br_solar.pdf
I wouldn't mind the extra cost if that is a better setup or even possible? What is an example of the disconnect with extra lugs?Last edited by supertrucker; 11-05-2016, 04:34 AM.Comment
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SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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If I were working on anything I would make sure it wasn't live with a meter. I am just unfamiliar with the hardware options. The meter main I mentioned is on a list of approved hardware but I just didn't understand the process if getting it swapped. I called someone in the new construction Dept and it sounded like it might be easier to just get a disconnect with more lugs. I didn't know that was available.Comment
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It is not simple stuff. Electrically it is pretty simple, but to be code compliant and legal and safe is not. The whole electrical grid system was designed (and codified) to flow from a central generator downhill to you the user, and now you want to reverse that and backfeed power uphill (so to speak). It makes for a lot of difficulties in code compliance especially at the point of interconnection. The service panel (or meter) was listed (tested and approved) for specific purposes and very few of them ever foresaw or will allow line side taps. A 100A mobile home panel is almost certainly going to need a complete upgrade to be code compliant for solar.
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There are a lot of ways to do line side taps. One is via a meter base adapter; you can't do that yourself since you have to pull the meter. Another is a line side tap using insulation piercing terminals. Also something you should not do yourself.
Your best case if you want to do it yourself is to use breakers on the 100A distribution panel. You could go up to about 5kW DC with a 20 amp breaker on the distribution panel. For a mobile home in a reasonable location that should cover most of your needs.Comment
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I can't find where you can even purchase a meter base adapter?
I was thinking there was a mini bus bar in an enclosure where you could tie in a bunch of things. I'm sure it is called something else. 5kw would be great and having an extra slot in my breaker would be great too, but I don't have that.
Found what I need I believe, but how do you implement it? http://www.altechcorp.com/HTML/PowerDistriBlocks-A.htmlLast edited by supertrucker; 11-07-2016, 07:00 PM.Comment
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In general you can't. Here in San Diego you can get the utility to sell one to your contractor, but they will not sell one to a homeowner for obvious reasons.
Replacing your subpanel may be cheaper and more effectie than a line side tap, especially if you are already at 100% utilization in your panel.I'm sure it is called something else. 5kw would be great and having an extra slot in my breaker would be great too, but I don't have that.
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I am trying to understand the terminology you are using. Are you suggesting I replace my 100a circuit breaker panel or are you thinking I have a subpanel at the meter? I have also seen where there is a subpanel beside the load center in or outside the home. Mine is inside, but no subpanel yet.In general you can't. Here in San Diego you can get the utility to sell one to your contractor, but they will not sell one to a homeowner for obvious reasons.
Replacing your subpanel may be cheaper and more effectie than a line side tap, especially if you are already at 100% utilization in your panel.
Last edited by supertrucker; 11-07-2016, 10:06 PM.Comment
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I got in touch with my electric company. I guess you need a permit to do anything to the meter and that also requires an electrician. I didn't ask, but I wonder if it was all wired up and ready to go on a new pole if they would allow it to be turned on without that? If I have to hire an electrician I guess changing the main circuit breaker may be the cheapest method?Comment
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