Ironridge XR10 Flashfoot spacing and and finding rafter question please

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  • hnguyen11033
    Junior Member
    • Nov 2014
    • 15

    #1

    Ironridge XR10 Flashfoot spacing and and finding rafter question please

    Hi,

    Does anyone know the maximum length between the ironridge flashfoot? Also what is the easiest way to find the rafter for your roof? MOD, please move if this is in the wrong forum



    Thanks
  • ButchDeal
    Solar Fanatic
    • Apr 2014
    • 3802

    #2
    Originally posted by hnguyen11033
    Hi,

    Does anyone know the maximum length between the ironridge flashfoot? Also what is the easiest way to find the rafter for your roof? MOD, please move if this is in the wrong forum



    Thanks
    It depends on which rails you are using. XR10, XR100, or XR1000
    Roof pitch,
    Snow / wind load
    Location ( middle of array, edge etc )
    And as always local code and inspector preference .
    OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

    Comment

    • hnguyen11033
      Junior Member
      • Nov 2014
      • 15

      #3
      Originally posted by ButchDeal
      It depends on which rails you are using. XR10, XR100, or XR1000
      Roof pitch,
      Snow / wind load
      Location ( middle of array, edge etc )
      And as always local code and inspector preference .


      Thank for the reply. I found the answer to the first question on the spec sheet. What is the easiest way to find the rafters?

      Comment

      • emartin00
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2013
        • 511

        #4
        If you are using IronRidge, I would strongly suggest taking a lot at their free online configuration tool.

        As for finding the rafters, expensive stud finders work well, but are expensive. Then you have the hammer method: pounding on the roof and listening for the different sounds. You can go in the attic and measure them out.
        Try google or youtube, I've seen plenty of videos on how it's done.

        Comment

        • foo1bar
          Solar Fanatic
          • Aug 2014
          • 1833

          #5
          Originally posted by emartin00
          Then you have the hammer method: pounding on the roof and listening for the different sounds.
          I think that's a good choice if the rafters are covered by plywood then by shingles.
          I had purlins in between rafters and plywood - so wasn't able to use that method.

          You can go in the attic and measure them out.
          Or measure outside using the rafter tails if visible.
          You can use the 3-4-5 triangle rule to try to get a line perpendicular to the roof edge (and hopefully your rafters are perpendicular to the roof's edge.)
          Then drill the hole that you think will hit a rafter, find out if you're right, and if not, look in the attic to figure out which way to go and how far you are off. If you're doing a conduit into the attic, use that hole as a reference point for measuring.

          Comment

          • hnguyen11033
            Junior Member
            • Nov 2014
            • 15

            #6
            Thank you very much!

            Comment

            • Nephi
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2015
              • 25

              #7
              I have asphalt on plywood on skip slats (purlins?) on 24" OC 2x6s. Using an affordable scanner will not work.

              Is there anything wrong with this plan?:
              1. Find the right location in the attic
              2. Get an extra long 1/8" drill bit
              3. Drill an 1/8" hole all the way through the 2x6 rafter
              4. Measure spacing in attic from 1st hole to end of row
              5. Find the drill on the top side
              6. Mark all rafters using measurements from below.
              7. Drill 1/4" pilot for lag screws
              8. Install flashings.
              Of course I'm sure the devil is in the details I've left out, besides the attic has freshly blown in insulation (snow) that doesn't want to be stepped all over!

              I may also start with the 3'4'5' rule since I can see most of the tails. But if I miss more than one or 2, I'll dig into the attic and go from there.

              Comment

              • foo1bar
                Solar Fanatic
                • Aug 2014
                • 1833

                #8
                Originally posted by Nephi
                Is there anything wrong with this plan?:[LIST=1]
                So drill from bottom up for the first one?
                That sounds reasonable.

                I'd measure each rafter distance - it's not unheard of for things to be '24" OC' but one is at 22.5" and the next is at 25.

                Also you should figure out where you want to put the feet.
                Do you want the top rail on even rafters and the bottom rail on odd rafters so you distribute the load a little more?
                I didn't. All of mine are on the same rafters. But it's an option.


                If you don't already have a good chalk line, get one.
                I used a chalk line for longer straight lines and a sidewalk chalk (hey - it works) for making measurement marks (ex. '36 inches is here')

                Comment

                • Nephi
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2015
                  • 25

                  #9
                  Yes chaulk line is in the works. Thanks!

                  Comment

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