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DIY system in CA; 8.68kw system

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  • DIY system in CA; 8.68kw system

    So here's my bill for most of the main parts for my system from supplier I'm spending the most with.

    $12351 for inverter + panels
    $1834 for racking
    $300 for crimpers
    $342 for wire, clips, grounding lugs, conduit flashing
    ~$500 for shipping, and then sales tax, brings it to total of

    $16619 that I need to pay them on Mon.


    [TABLE="width: 97%, align: center"]
    [TR]
    [TD]Item[/TD]
    [TD]SKU[/TD]
    [TD]Quan[/TD]
    [TD]Price[/TD]
    [TD]Total[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]SOLAREDGE SE7600A-US-U Single Phase Grid Tied Inverter, 7600W, 240VAC, 60Hz, DC/AC Discon, 2 Unfused Input, No MPPT, 12 Yr Warr, Ungrounded, RS485 and Ethernet, Arc-Fault Protection[/TD]
    [TD]SE7600A-US-U[/TD]
    [TD]1[/TD]
    [TD]1,645.94[/TD]
    [TD]1,645.94[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]SOLAREDGE DC Power Optimizer P400-2NM4ARM Module Add-On 400W/80VDC. H4 input connectors, module-level monitoring, Module Add-On for Commercial Installations, 25 years warranty[/TD]
    [TD]P400-2NA4ARM[/TD]
    [TD]31[/TD]
    [TD]66.04[/TD]
    [TD]2,047.24[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]LG MonoX 280W Mono Black Frame 60 cell 35mm Frame Solar Module, Module efficiency 17.1%, PTC 255.2W, Made in Korea[/TD]
    [TD]LG280S1C-B3[/TD]
    [TD]31[/TD]
    [TD]279.30[/TD]
    [TD]8,658.30[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Quick Mount PV, Flashing, E-Mount, 9" x 12", Mill Finish, Qty. 1, QMSE A 1, with Elevated Water Seal, Stainless steel hardware (included), 10-year warranty, 2554 lbs. average pullout[/TD]
    [TD]QMSE A 1[/TD]
    [TD]72[/TD]
    [TD]11.49[/TD]
    [TD]827.28[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Adjustable L-Foot Kit w/ hardware, Mill, pkg.4[/TD]
    [TD]29-7000-017[/TD]
    [TD]18[/TD]
    [TD]10.56[/TD]
    [TD]190.08[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE XR10 Rail 168" (14 Feet) Clear Anodized, A low-profile mounting rail for regions without snow, 6’ spanning capability, XR-10-168A[/TD]
    [TD]XR-10-168A[/TD]
    [TD]6[/TD]
    [TD]31.38[/TD]
    [TD]188.28[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE XR10 Rail 132" (11 Feet) Clear Anodized, A low-profile mounting rail for regions without snow, 6’ spanning capability, XR-10-132A[/TD]
    [TD]XR-10-132A[/TD]
    [TD]16[/TD]
    [TD]24.63[/TD]
    [TD]394.08[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Splice Kit for XR10 Rail, Mill Finish Includes: Qt.1 Splice Bar, Qt.2 #12-14x5/8”, Self-drilling/tapping screws XR-10-SPLC[/TD]
    [TD]XR-10-SPLC[/TD]
    [TD]6[/TD]
    [TD]4.11[/TD]
    [TD]24.66[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Grounding Strap Kit, 2pcs[/TD]
    [TD]RS-GDST-001[/TD]
    [TD]3[/TD]
    [TD]10.56[/TD]
    [TD]31.68[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE End Clamp B Kit, 1.41" BLACK, 4 pcs.[/TD]
    [TD]29-7000-224B[/TD]
    [TD]10[/TD]
    [TD]8.21[/TD]
    [TD]82.10[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Grounding Mid Clamp, with 2.25" T-Bolt, BLACK, (34.8-41.0mm), UL 2703, Qty. 4, RS-GD-MCL-225B[/TD]
    [TD]RS-GD-MCL-225B[/TD]
    [TD]11[/TD]
    [TD]8.75[/TD]
    [TD]96.25[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]RENNSTEIG Crimping Pliers MC4 Solar AWG 14/12/10 + Locator[/TD]
    [TD]624 570 3 1 RT[/TD]
    [TD]1[/TD]
    [TD]297.41[/TD]
    [TD]297.41[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]MULTI-CONTACT MC4 FEMALE Cable Coupler PV-KBT4/6II-UR[/TD]
    [TD]32.0016P0001UR[/TD]
    [TD]8[/TD]
    [TD]1.56[/TD]
    [TD]12.48[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]MULTI-CONTACT MC4 MALE Cable Coupler PV-KST4/6II-UR[/TD]
    [TD]32.0017P0001UR[/TD]
    [TD]8[/TD]
    [TD]1.56[/TD]
    [TD]12.48[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]MULTI-CONTACT MC4 Assembly Tool Open-end spanner and unlocking tool MC4 – RED[/TD]
    [TD]PV-MS 32.6024[/TD]
    [TD]2[/TD]
    [TD]2.40[/TD]
    [TD]4.80[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]ILSCO Module Grounding Lay-In Lug GBL-4DBT UL Listed Tin-Plated for Copper Wire. Ground Conductor Range 4 AWG - 14 AWG[/TD]
    [TD]GBL-4DBT[/TD]
    [TD]2[/TD]
    [TD]2.88[/TD]
    [TD]5.76[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Grounding Lug T-Bolt Kit, 2 pcs[/TD]
    [TD]RS-GDLG-002[/TD]
    [TD]6[/TD]
    [TD]8.21[/TD]
    [TD]49.26[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]QUICKMOUNT QMCPC Conduit Penetration Flashing Kit for Composition Shingle Roofs, Aluminum Mill Finish, 12"x12" Spun Aluminum Cone, 10 Year Warranty, QMCPC A 1[/TD]
    [TD]QMCPC A 1[/TD]
    [TD]3[/TD]
    [TD]14.63[/TD]
    [TD]43.89[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]IRONRIDGE Wire Clip Molded PVC Black (Polybag, 20pcs)[/TD]
    [TD]29-4000-077[/TD]
    [TD]5[/TD]
    [TD]8.21[/TD]
    [TD]41.05[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]TITAN WIRE AND CABLE PV Wire, 10AWG, UL4703, 600VDC, 45Mils White XLP Insulation w/ 15Mils Black Jacket, 250'/500'/1000'/2500' spool, 01-PV-10X-DJ-BLK-2[/TD]
    [TD]01-PV-10X-DJ-BLK-600[/TD]
    [TD]500[/TD]
    [TD]0.35[/TD]
    [TD]175.00[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]

  • #2
    wow, you have been shopping for solar since 09/2013... finally?

    Comment


    • #3
      Supplier I'll probably spend the least was buying labels - $22.10 (including shipping)

      Other expenses:
      permit ($297.31)
      sawblade (for cutting alum rails)
      conduit reamer
      conduit bender
      shingle ripper
      SS bolts
      anti-sieze compound
      chalk (to mark locations on roof)
      Drill
      roof sealant
      conduit
      wire 8AWG ground
      40A breaker
      jboxes
      6 AWG to panel

      and the expenses for a new main panel/meter:
      new panel
      trenching
      2/0 wire
      2" PVC conduit
      sand
      grass seed
      stucco repair
      irrigation repairs

      Comment


      • #4
        It isn't much, but why choose P400 optimizers when P300 is what is intended for 60 cell panels?

        I'd suggest the P300-5NA4ARS, which has better sealing than the -2 series and has MC4 inputs and outputs.
        CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by silversaver View Post
          wow, you have been shopping for solar since 09/2013... finally?
          No. since 08/2014. a little over 4 months.

          Took me a month or two of looking at buying a system from an installer.
          And then another month of getting the plans created, estimates of solar production, permits pulled, rebates filed for.
          Then with the holidays I didn't do much - and now there's a little sale on the SE7600, so I'm making my purchase.

          The installation will take me a while as well - I'll be doing it on Saturdays when the roof is dry enough. (and all of us here hope that it isn't dry very often for the next 4+ months)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by sensij View Post
            It isn't much, but why choose P400 optimizers when P300 is what is intended for 60 cell panels?

            I'd suggest the P300-5NA4ARS, which has better sealing than the -2 series and has MC4 inputs and outputs.
            I don't have a good reason.
            I think I'll see about switching to that.
            For P300's both models on the website have H4 connections (one is H4 on the input, the other on the output)

            If it were you, would you do H4 connectors on the output (are they as easy to do as MC4s? as reliable?)
            Or would you spend more (if necessary) for MC4 on both.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by foo1bar View Post
              No. since 08/2014. a little over 4 months.

              Took me a month or two of looking at buying a system from an installer.
              And then another month of getting the plans created, estimates of solar production, permits pulled, rebates filed for.
              Then with the holidays I didn't do much - and now there's a little sale on the SE7600, so I'm making my purchase.

              The installation will take me a while as well - I'll be doing it on Saturdays when the roof is dry enough. (and all of us here hope that it isn't dry very often for the next 4+ months)
              I thought you were foobar

              Comment


              • #8
                Congratulations on your project. A couple of questions/thoughts:

                The pricing you found matches the best pricing I've found. I'm sure it is the same vendor. Did you get quotes from other vendors as well?

                How did you end up choosing the 280W ($1.00/W)panels? Going to the 270W ($0.95/W) LGs would save you $680 from your vendor and you only lose 310W DC.

                Also, not sure what your layout looks like, but did you consider going with heavier rail (XR100) to possibly cut down on the number of roof flashings you'll need to buy/install? I'm going with (30) LG panels/XR100 rail and Quickmount Flashing (not the less expensive E-mount) and I'll have 46 Quickmounts to install and a total racking/flashing material cost of $1782.

                -SAM

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Samsolar View Post
                  Congratulations on your project. A couple of questions/thoughts:

                  The pricing you found matches the best pricing I've found. I'm sure it is the same vendor. Did you get quotes from other vendors as well?

                  How did you end up choosing the 280W ($1.00/W)panels? Going to the 270W ($0.95/W) LGs would save you $680 from your vendor and you only lose 310W DC.

                  Also, not sure what your layout looks like, but did you consider going with heavier rail (XR100) to possibly cut down on the number of roof flashings you'll need to buy/install? I'm going with (30) LG panels/XR100 rail and Quickmount Flashing (not the less expensive E-mount) and I'll have 46 Quickmounts to install and a total racking/flashing material cost of $1782.

                  -SAM
                  Because of local rebates (and roof constraints) the LG280's after rebate (and after fed tax incentive) are better choice for me. The rebate is based on the size, so $257 for 270s -> $279 for 280s winds up being <$10/panel more, and an extra 10W at <$1/watt (post-rebate) pays for itself in a fairly short timeframe.

                  If I went with heavier rail, I could possibly drop a few of the feet/qmpv, but not a lot because I have a bunch of short rows. (2 1-panel, 3 2-panel, 2 4-panel, 1 3-panel landscape, and then the "big" array of 2 rows of 6.)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    While you are at it...buy some spare parts now...you will be glad you did down the road.

                    Those panels and optimizers will not be available in a few years at any price.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DanS26 View Post
                      While you are at it...buy some spare parts now...you will be glad you did down the road.

                      Those panels and optimizers will not be available in a few years at any price.
                      I tend to agree with you on the panels, at least if a uniform appearance is important. Electrically, not such a big deal with SolarEdge. I don't see any projectable reason that compatible optimizers will no longer be available for many years. The most likely reason I see is that SolarEdge gets bought up by someone like SolarCity, in the same way that ZEP solar did. As cool as it was, people who have arrays with Zep frames are going to have a hard time replacing or upgrading later.
                      CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DanS26 View Post
                        While you are at it...buy some spare parts now...you will be glad you did down the road.

                        Those panels and optimizers will not be available in a few years at any price.
                        I didn't...
                        If 1 panel fails I'll probably just live with the ~3% lower output.
                        if 2 fail, I'll replace them since I can do that and it'll be fine aesthetically.

                        If an optimizer fails, I think I'll be able to find a replacement - or if Solaredge is gone (which seems unlikely) I'll either live with the downgraded output, or buy a new inverter and switch part of the array to the new inverter (freeing up a bunch of optimizers to replace failing ones)

                        Of course it'll be a bigger PITA to diagnose a failed optimizer/panel if Solaredge is gone - since the per-optimizer monitoring makes it easy to see which one isn't responding/performing. But I'll worry about that bridge if we ever come to it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by foo1bar View Post

                          If it were you, would you do H4 connectors on the output (are they as easy to do as MC4s? as reliable?)
                          Or would you spend more (if necessary) for MC4 on both.
                          You need to match the connectors that are on the panels. From the datasheet, it looks like it uses MC4.
                          Solar Queen
                          altE Store

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Amy@altE View Post
                            You need to match the connectors that are on the panels. From the datasheet, it looks like it uses MC4.
                            I think only the input to the optimizer has to match the panel.
                            I don't see why the output from the optimizer would have to match anything other than the cables it connects to.
                            And my question was whether to do H4 or MC4 for the cables and the outputs from the optimizers.

                            Anyhow, I bought version with MC4 on input and output - so really only an academic discussion.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Suggestions for DIY Installation

                              Hi,
                              I am thinking of installing solar myself. The size will be 4.86KwDC (18x270w panels) & enphase micro m-215. I will be installing on a concrete tile roof. I plan to get the panels & components myself. My plan is to 1) have a 'design/permit' service do the drawings. then i can submit to get the city permit. 2) have a licensed electrician do the connection to the main panel. my questions/request for suggestions are:
                              1) what tile roof hook to use: I see QV hooks (expensive)/creotec hooks - these don't require any filling, etc on the roof, but these are a bit expensive compared to Grace Solar hooks. Suggestion on which is better? Grace hooks are 50% cost of other hook types. OR should I go for different mount - like tile trac (which requires drilling the tile)? I am confident I can do the drill, etc (but would end up breaking some tiles & can replace; but would like to avoid the drilling process). Would love to hear from someone who has done on concrete tile.

                              2) Has anyone used 'design/permit' services. I see a few offering this type of service for about 300 to 500.

                              3) Has anyone used licensed electrician to do the electrical connections (the final piece)?

                              for the answers/suggestions that require name of person or business, please send a PM. Greatly appreciate that.
                              The bids I got from commercial installers were in the 3.60 to 3.85/watt range (before rebate). I estimate $12 to $13 K if I do the install myself with some help from friends. My main motivation is both satisfaction/fun part of DIY & cost savings.
                              thanks,

                              Comment

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