Hey from Tennessee, controller problems

[Watts up]

[QUOTE=SunEagle;135484]I did some more research and found that most of the Aleko "solar" gate opener kits had a battery charge controller similar to the LM118 but only had 4 wires. 2 for the solar panel, 2 for the battery and none for the "load". I am wondering if there is a mix up with the type of CC he needs to use.

I also did not find a wiring diagram how the "gate opener" was wired but I agree with you that it should get power directly from the battery although I am not sure what would "trigger" the power on and off.[/QUOT


The LM 117 was the controller that had 4 leads coming off it. The LM118 was a upgrade I was told. LM 117 had 2 leads for the Bat and 2 for the solar that was it. It was designed for use with Lock master swing gates the solar panel LM109 and batteries LM 125. The LM 118 has a extra set of wires that go to the load (control box) The LM 117 was for a back up system ( thats how I have a 10w solar panel and the 2 little batteries ( which are the LM 109 and Lm 125. As far as a manual you can look up Lock Master gate openers Model # LM 902. Duel swing gates. Something else the control box has a spot for the bat and solar panel. but it says reserved. He told me not to use it anyway.

Thanks for spending the time looking up everything. I took some readings this morning and hooked the solar to the bat to charge it. So when I hooked everything back up it had power to let the wife in from work, plus I'll see just how bad it pulls the batteries down in the morning. I also called Aleko back and talked to one of the guys, he offered to send another Controller LM 118 to me. So I have yet another LM118 coming. I'm most likely gonna go with the Sun Savor SS20L 24 and call it a day.

[Watts up]

Based on the wiring diagram for that ALEKO LM118 gate controller you would wire the "gate opener" device to the "load leads" on the controller.

http://www.alekogreenenergy.com/ALEKO-LM118-24V-Solar-Charge-Controller-p/lm118-ae.htm

That pair of wires energizes the gate opener.

I am thinking that since the OP's equipment worked for a few months and then started to give him a problem followed by multiple replacement of that control unit as well as getting a good "bench" test followed by a failed "field" test and then a "failed" bench test, he is blowing the output of those controllers.

IMO I think there is something wrong with the "gate opener" where it once could be controlled by the LM118 but now is drawing too many amps which causes the LM118 to fail.

There is 2 wires that get hooked up to the controller Battery plus and negative 2 wires how could that be blowing the controller After I hook up the bat side I do a test to see if the Load (2 wires coming out of the controller marked LOAD) have a load, it should. But in fact I am getting 0 v coming out. That load is what powers the control box. I even changed the 2 wires from the battery oh I also checked the 2 wires from the batteries for voltage before hooking them up. LM118 you should hook bat first then solar then load in that order. This solar thing is new to me, but I have wired just about everything cars, bikes, houses, buildings, electric motors,roll up doors, even shrimp lights, swimming pools, well pumps etc etc. Explain and I can do it.

[Watts up]

Gotcha

No. the load leads on the controller are not connected to anything, leave them open and make sure they can't short together.

Let me try again, more clearly.

1) Hook the gate drive up to the batteries.
2) Hook the controller up to the batteries (keep the gate drive hooked up as well).
3) Hook the solar up to the controller.

Gotcha I meant load from control box not controller. I left them open. I had butt connectors on all 6 wires so there fine. My wording, yours was right on, both times. LOL

[Watts up]

Sun Savor question

Gotcha I meant load from control box not controller. I left them open. I had butt connectors on all 6 wires so there fine. My wording, yours was right on, both times. LOL

I went to morning star and they have a product selector and now i'm confused. It wants to know: My solar panels is less than 1 amp I think ?

type of regulation: I put PWM load control

solar current:

Load current:

Load control:

30w solar panel:
Rated Max Power: 20 Watts
Current at Power Max: 0.57 Amps
Voltage at Power Max: 35.2 Volts
Short Circuit Current: 0.64 Amps
Open Current Voltage: 42.2Volts

10w solar panel
Rated Max Power:10 Watts
Current at Power Max: 0.28 Amps
Voltage at Power Max: 35.2 Volts
Short Circuit Current: 0.32 Amps
Open Current Voltage: 42.2Volt

[sensij]

I went to morning star and they have a product selector and now i'm confused. It wants to know: My solar panels is less than 1 amp I think ?

A quick way to ballpark the amperage is to take the panel wattage / the battery voltage. 40 W / 24 V = 1.67 A. That is roughly how much current your controller needs to be able to handle. The better controllers for bigger installations have sizing tools that have more accurate calculations. For a PWM controller, amps out = amps in, so <1 A is correct.

[Watts up]

A quick way to ballpark the amperage is to take the panel wattage / the battery voltage. 40 W / 24 V = 1.67 A. That is roughly how much current your controller needs to be able to handle. The better controllers for bigger installations have sizing tools that have more accurate calculations. For a PWM controller, amps out = amps in, so <1 A is correct.

Thanks !!