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  • Float Switch Not Working

    I purchased a low cost float switch to install in a water trough like the one pictured below. I wired it to a Sun Pump PCA-30-M1 controller. I have a DC water pump, solar panels, batteries and everything else I think I need. I connected everything in the back yard to test the set up before I took it out to my well. Everything worked fine except for the float switch. I checked the wiring to the controller and closed the switch manually on my work table. The switch would not turn the pump off. Anybody have one of these? Any suggestions? Thank you.







    Switch.jpg

  • #2
    Float switch

    Dear trooper,

    I think that if you include a link for the float switch purchased by you and a schematic with the connections of your test, we will be able to help you.

    Regards,

    Comment


    • #3
      Reply

      I got it off of E Bay. The wires did not have + or - indicated on them. I connected it both ways to the remote switch terminals on the controller. It would not work. Here are the specs. I got off E Bay.
      Contract rating(Max):50W
      Switching voltage(Max):220VDC
      Switching current(Max):1.5A
      Breakdown voltage(Max):300VDC
      Carry current(Max):3.0A
      Contract resistance(Max):100 OHM
      Temperature rating: -20 ~ +80 C
      Material: PP

      Comment


      • #4
        Float switch

        Originally posted by texastrooper View Post
        I got it off of E Bay. The wires did not have + or - indicated on them. I connected it both ways to the remote switch terminals on the controller. It would not work. Here are the specs. I got off E Bay.
        Contract rating(Max):50W
        Switching voltage(Max):220VDC
        Switching current(Max):1.5A
        Breakdown voltage(Max):300VDC
        Carry current(Max):3.0A
        Contract resistance(Max):100 OHM
        Temperature rating: -20 ~ +80 C
        Material: PP
        Dear Trooper,

        Do not know if this will help you but I will try (probably you already know what I am writing):

        Your float switch has a normally open / normally closed contact (NO/NC).

        This means that you must wire it serial to your load.

        When the float switch is in NO position the load will not run.

        When the float switch is in NC position the load will run.

        Mean that one of the float switch wires must be connected to the + output on your controller, the other float switch wire to the + on the DC pump, and the pump - to the minus of your controller.

        If this does not work, check with a multimeter if the contact on the float switch is opening and closing, when you change the float position manually. If the contact does not change state, then the float switch is not working properly.

        Good luck.

        Comment


        • #5
          Usually, this kind of float switch has a reed relay and a magnet to activate it. The switch is used to control a LARGER relay that then controls your load. It is easy to fry the reed relay contacts with a motor load.

          Switching current(Max):1.5A
          Contract resistance(Max):100 OHM
          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
            Usually, this kind of float switch has a reed relay and a magnet to activate it. The switch is used to control a LARGER relay that then controls your load. It is easy to fry the reed relay contacts with a motor load.
            You hit it on the head Mike. With only a 1.5 amp switch rating even with a 3 amp max current rating no way it would survive in the main circuit to start the pump. He should have used a contactor to run the pump and the float switch to energize the contactor.

            Comment


            • #7
              The sun pump controller should have the float switch contactor built in. Sounds like you just got a bad switch. I use the Rhombus brand. SJE model.

              Originally posted by SunEagle View Post
              You hit it on the head Mike. With only a 1.5 amp switch rating even with a 3 amp max current rating no way it would survive in the main circuit to start the pump. He should have used a contactor to run the pump and the float switch to energize the contactor.

              Comment


              • #8
                Continuity Check

                Checked continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes I would get a reading, sometimes not. Guess the switch has a short. Anyway, thanks for the help.

                Comment


                • #9
                  So what kind of pump did you install? A sunpump submersible?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Pump

                    It is a DC powered pump. Sima Electrics. May not be great, but it was all I could afford. Tried it out in the back yard. It worked good.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The "automatic" pumps that run sometimes which then measure the current being attracted I find are far more efficient.
                      Dan

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