caption of the short bus needs water heater help

[sensij]

The thing is, the OP already has a diversion controller. His PV array might be capable of producing more than 1200 W though, so some caution is still warranted in hooking up the elements. Some way to know that the water has been fully heated and is at risk of boiling off would be a good idea, if using the supplied thermostat is beyond the scope of knowledge.

[bcroe]

OK so basicly I bought this water heater conversion kit and have NO ideal how it works or how to hook it up no direction and the guy on ebay is gone.

This is what they sent me 2 SES heating elements rated at 24V and 600 watts and a thermostat marked NGT 43 4958 L49 2A14W
I suspect the 2A14W stands for 2 Amps at 14W I don't understand how this would even work. The only information I got from the distributor before they disappeared is it should run from a dump load but I dont have a dumload I run solar.

http://www.ngtcontrols.com/spec-3-type43.htm

http://www.sespvt.com/products.php?product=24-Volt-600-Watt-Immersion-Heater

I was told by another member here that the thermostat is useless due to it is for AC only.
So I was thinking I us my standard AC from my inverter all the way up to the water heater thermostat and use a rectifier between the thermostat and DC element. I have a 24V system. What are your thoughts?

Resistance heating elements don't care if you feed them DC or AC. But switches do.
Until you can put a compete set of calculated numbers on a system design, you aren't
ready to build anything. Bruce Roe

[charles2,david000k]

caption of the short bus needs water heater help

OK so basicly I bought this water heater conversion kit and have NO ideal how it works or how to hook it up no direction and the guy on ebay is gone.

This is what they sent me 2 SES heating elements rated at 24V and 600 watts and a thermostat marked NGT 43 4958 L49 2A14W
I suspect the 2A14W stands for 2 Amps at 14W I don't understand how this would even work. The only information I got from the distributor before they disappeared is it should run from a dump load but I dont have a dumload I run solar.

http://www.ngtcontrols.com/spec-3-type43.htm

http://www.sespvt.com/products.php?product=24-Volt-600-Watt-Immersion-Heater

I was told by another member here that the thermostat is useless due to it is for AC only.
So I was thinking I us my standard AC from my inverter all the way up to the water heater thermostat and use a rectifier between the thermostat and DC element.

I have a 24V system. What are your thoughts?

[inetdog]

I will post there. With what you have said I am thinking just run a bridge rectifier at the water heater to go from AC to DC between the factory thermostat to new heating element. But like you said I should read up on it before attempting. As for locals well I am unsure of their ability because I already hired two of the best companies in my area and they deemed those panels bad and you guys said they are good so ya I am second guessing their abilities.

Just do not try to use the 24V elements with 120 or 240V AC!!!!
Where would your 24V AC be coming from?
Once again you seem to be limited in what you can safely do by a lack of basic knowledge about electricity.

[charles2,david000k]

1. You bought the kit without knowing what you were getting and possibly without knowing what you really wanted to do with it.
2. You do not have the necessary knowledge to be able to hook it up safely once you figure out what you want.
3. You have shown an inability to understand fairly clear directions given in other threads on this forum. Therefore
4. I am not going to expose both of us to risk by trying to explain how to wire your pig in a poke.

That said, I will make a couple of observations:

A. Each 24V 600W heating elements will draw a nominal 25A (DC). Two elements in parallel will draw 50A. You do have a 24V battery system, I hope?
B. The switch, with specifications here: http://www.ngtcontrols.com/spec-3-type43.htm, is rated for only 13A and only AC. The 2A14W has nothing to do with Amps and Watts. The switch is not intended to be a thermostat which is operated regularly, just an overtemperature limit switch (with auto reset) which operates infrequently.
C. 40 feet of wire good for 50A will probably cost you more than you paid for the conversion kit.
D. In addition to a proper thermostat (and the existing ones in the heater are probably not good for DC either) you need something to provide power to the circuit only when you have solar power to spare. That could be as simple as a mystical device called a voltage sensitive relay driving a more substantial type of relay called a contactor.

Your best bet, I think, would be to find someone local who can tutor you in basic electricity and spend some time with you figuring out just what you want to do with your solar system.

I wish you the best of luck, but I cannot help you remotely.

PS: Anywhere in the Off Grid section would probably be better than here.

I will post there. With what you have said I am thinking just run a bridge rectifier at the water heater to go from AC to DC between the factory thermostat to new heating element. But like you said I should read up on it before attempting. As for locals well I am unsure of their ability because I already hired two of the best companies in my area and they deemed those panels bad and you guys said they are good so ya I am second guessing their abilities.

[inetdog]

I did not see a section for this so I figured I would post it here.



OK so basicly I bought this water heater conversion kit and have NO ideal how it works or how to hook it up no direction and the guy on ebay is gone.

This is what they sent me 2 SES heating elements rated at 24V and 600 watts and a thermostat marked NGT 43 4958 L49 2A14W
I suspect the 2A14W stands for 2 Amps at 14W I don't understand how this would even work. The only information I got from the distributor before they disappeared is it should run from a dump load but I dont have a dumload I run solar.

1. You bought the kit without knowing what you were getting and possibly without knowing what you really wanted to do with it.
2. You do not have the necessary knowledge to be able to hook it up safely once you figure out what you want.
3. You have shown an inability to understand fairly clear directions given in other threads on this forum. Therefore
4. I am not going to expose both of us to risk by trying to explain how to wire your pig in a poke.

That said, I will make a couple of observations:

A. Each 24V 600W heating elements will draw a nominal 25A (DC). Two elements in parallel will draw 50A. You do have a 24V battery system, I hope?
B. The switch, with specifications here: http://www.ngtcontrols.com/spec-3-type43.htm, is rated for only 13A and only AC. The 2A14W has nothing to do with Amps and Watts. The switch is not intended to be a thermostat which is operated regularly, just an overtemperature limit switch (with auto reset) which operates infrequently.
C. 40 feet of wire good for 50A will probably cost you more than you paid for the conversion kit.
D. In addition to a proper thermostat (and the existing ones in the heater are probably not good for DC either) you need something to provide power to the circuit only when you have solar power to spare. That could be as simple as a mystical device called a voltage sensitive relay driving a more substantial type of relay called a contactor.

Your best bet, I think, would be to find someone local who can tutor you in basic electricity and spend some time with you figuring out just what you want to do with your solar system.

I wish you the best of luck, but I cannot help you remotely.

PS: Anywhere in the Off Grid section would probably be better than here. So I moved it.....

[charles2,david000k]

A diagram, wire size, fuse size and fuse position would be great. From the battery to the heater 40 feet with ups down twist and turns.

[charles2,david000k]

I did not see a section for this so I figured I would post it here.



OK so basicly I bought this water heater conversion kit and have NO ideal how it works or how to hook it up no direction and the guy on ebay is gone.

This is what they sent me 2 SES heating elements rated at 24V and 600 watts and a thermostat marked NGT 43 4958 L49 2A14W
I suspect the 2A14W stands for 2 Amps at 14W I don't understand how this would even work. The only information I got from the distributor before they disappeared is it should run from a dump load but I dont have a dumload I run solar.