I messed up: Need advice on bringing Trojan L16s back from near dead

[hammick]

Extrafu the reverse ssh tunneling might be over my level. I have a buddy that works for Microsoft that probably knows all about it. Does the remote router with OpenVPN initiate the reverse tunnel on set intervals? Or once the tunnel is broken are you disconnected until you make the connection again from your remote place.

Any reason I can't buy the router, flash Open VPN and have my buddy set it all up at my main home and then expect it to work when I take it to our place with Hughesnet?

Once you have your reverse ssh tunnel active what do you use to tunnel back to the remote router? RDC or just the VPN client built into Windows 10?

[hammick]

@hammick DD-WRT is dead, don't use it. I'm using Xplornet - same thing has Hughes Network (same satellite modem, same network). You won't be able to "VPN" to anything connected to a Hughes network modem. They are port-blocking everything. You have to use a *reverse tunnel* - meaning the connection needs go be established behind that mo-dumb and you use it it from the peer end.

I was also tempted to purchased a Conext Gateway. The Combox does NOT work well with Insight on high-latency (read satellite) connections. It's just pure crap. Schneider sent me 3 free Combox to work our the issues with them - and they gave up at some point and released the Gateway. I honestly don't have too much fait in the Gateway about this, so I prefer my own solution which has been working well for many months now (VPN + reverse SSH tunnel).

And btw, I use a Linksys WRT1900ACS as my WiFi router (flashed with OpenWRT).

Thanks for the great info Extrafu. So are you saying when you connect to your Combox using your VPN "reverse tunnel" that you don't have a bad experience (high-latency) when monitoring/configuring the Combox? Or maybe the latency is there but you just don't see it. I'm assuming DynamicDNS is not needed with the reverse tunnel?

I am using two Cloud based products up there and they work great with Hughesnet. Blink XT2 cameras and the Insteon Hub for my Insteon light switches, motion detector, siren, etc.

I believe with Cloud based stuff the latency is still obviously there you just don't see it on the client end.

An idea I am kicking around is a Windows 10 Pro pc on a stick. The one I am looking at has both wifi and an ethernet port. I would load Teamviewer on it so I can RDC in. The Teamviewer server is free for personal use and I think it uses cloud based VPN so I might not see the latency.

My Wifi AGS board on my generator is a direct wifi connection. You connect to the board with a phone, tablet or laptop and then type it's IP address into a browser. My hope is that bridging the pc ethernet connection to the Hughesnet router and it's wifi connection to my AGS will allow me to see the AGS Wifi board on my network. I not sure if that will work. Thankfully the AGS Wifi board also has a two wire start interface so I can always buy the Schneider Context AGS and Gateway and start my genset.

[extrafu]

@hammick DD-WRT is dead, don't use it. I'm using Xplornet - same thing has Hughes Network (same satellite modem, same network). You won't be able to "VPN" to anything connected to a Hughes network modem. They are port-blocking everything. You have to use a *reverse tunnel* - meaning the connection needs go be established behind that mo-dumb and you use it it from the peer end.

I was also tempted to purchased a Conext Gateway. The Combox does NOT work well with Insight on high-latency (read satellite) connections. It's just pure crap. Schneider sent me 3 free Combox to work our the issues with them - and they gave up at some point and released the Gateway. I honestly don't have too much fait in the Gateway about this, so I prefer my own solution which has been working well for many months now (VPN + reverse SSH tunnel).

And btw, I use a Linksys WRT1900ACS as my WiFi router (flashed with OpenWRT).

[hammick]

I can't really send you the steps, has most of them were relevant to my own infrastructure. Basically I establish a site-to-site VPN between my OpenWrt router (connected in the satellite modem) with my office's VPN server (all using OpenVPN - available under OpenWrt). Then using ssh (instead of toying with routes), I establish a reverse tunnel to my OpenWrt router from my office - al through the VPN tunnel.

I can do whatever I want with the Combox at that point, it's just like if I was using it from my remote home.

I misspoke. I flashed my old Buffalo router to DDRWRT firmware. I've been reading up on OpenWRT though.

Are you using Hughesnet. I've read nothing but problems trying to use VPN or RDP with Hughesnet. Part of me wants to just shell out $500 for the Conext Gatway and go that route. No guarantee that won't have it's headaches though. Plus my MEP-802a generator will soon have a WIFI AGS on it and I want to be able to VPN/RDP in to control/monitor it.

So if you are on Hughesnet I won't give up up getting the Combox to work. Mind telling the Brand/model of your router?

Thanks.



PS: Is there no way to send Private Messages on this forum?

[extrafu]

I can't really send you the steps, has most of them were relevant to my own infrastructure. Basically I establish a site-to-site VPN between my OpenWrt router (connected in the satellite modem) with my office's VPN server (all using OpenVPN - available under OpenWrt). Then using ssh (instead of toying with routes), I establish a reverse tunnel to my OpenWrt router from my office - al through the VPN tunnel.

I can do whatever I want with the Combox at that point, it's just like if I was using it from my remote home.

[hammick]

FYI, I am in the same situation - I am using a satellite connection. I actually flashed my WiFi router to use OpenWrt and established a site-to-site VPN to have access to the Combox from anywhere I want. It works perfectly but it requires some computer/networking skills to get it done (which luckily I have).

Extrafu that's great. That is something I am wanting to try. In fact I already flashed a Buffalo router I had sitting around to OpenWrt. I won't be at our place until March 8th so I won't be able to play around with it.

Any chance you can PM the steps? I also have set up a Dynamic DNS through Noip.com if I need that.

I'm assuming with the VPN you have remote configuration ability of the Combox.

[extrafu]

My problem with remote monitoring is my Hughesnet satellite internet. They don't allow a static IP address and only allow IP6 dynamic IP's. Even the best of the computer geeks can't get port forwarding or DynamicIP working without using Rasberri Pis and other stuff that is way over my level. So my two options are leaving a laptop running and using Teamviewer remote desktop to access my Conext Combox or spending $500 on the Conext Gateway which allows cloud based monitoring and configuration.

FYI, I am in the same situation - I am using a satellite connection. I actually flashed my WiFi router to use OpenWrt and established a site-to-site VPN to have access to the Combox from anywhere I want. It works perfectly but it requires some computer/networking skills to get it done (which luckily I have).

[hammick]

I bought my Skybox from NAWS and some other balance of system parts. They have competitive prices and don't charge a California Sales Tax. I am pleased to see Lithium prices for those kind of self contained systems get below $1000 per kWhr. After tax credits that price is about $650 per kWhr. In addition, if I understand your system correctly, the Xanbus interconnectivity should work nicely with your inverter. It sounds like you have remote connectivity and that might give you the ability to change some parameters based on weather predictions if necessary. Keep us informed since there is not a great body of knowledge on this forum about LFP batteries and plenty of skepticism. I am not one of the skeptics since I have been messing with Lithium batteries for 7 years. I am a DIY kind of guy, but think there is real value in those type of Lithium battery systems with integrated Battery Management Systems.

Yes the battery is supposed to auto populate all the settings. Info below. I currently don't have remote monitoring or configuration. I have a Blink camera on my Trimetric meter which is the only reason I was able to watch my batteries slip away. It was torture.

My problem with remote monitoring is my Hughesnet satellite internet. They don't allow a static IP address and only allow IP6 dynamic IP's. Even the best of the computer geeks can't get port forwarding or DynamicIP working without using Rasberri Pis and other stuff that is way over my level. So my two options are leaving a laptop running and using Teamviewer remote desktop to access my Conext Combox or spending $500 on the Conext Gateway which allows cloud based monitoring and configuration. I'm leaning towards the laptop option because it is free and may also allow me to bridge my wifi autostart generator board to my network. If I'm successful I won't have to buy the conext AGS. I'm not a fan of generators running unattended. My plan is to only initiate a manual start remotely and have a Blink camera on it so I can monitor it. They engineer who made the Wifi auto start put in a custom firmware option for me so I can choose the amount of time it runs and then it auto shuts down. I needed a fail safe in case I lose internet control while the generator is running.





4. NETWORKING
4.1 Xanbus Network
Xanbus enabled devices communicate with each other over the Xanbus network to share settings, activity and other
updates. It is a requirement for one battery from the AES network to be connected to the Xanbus network. No more than
one battery may be connect to the Xanbus network. The AES network of batteries will communicate as 'one battery'
providing battery bank settings, activity and real time status to the other devices on the Xanbus network. No more than one
AES network of batteries may be connected to Xanbus.

▲ CAUTION
Only one AES battery is required to be connected to the Xanbus
network. Failure to do so could result in impaired system
performance.

4.2 AEBus Network
The AEBus is utilized by all networked AES batteries to coordinate all voltage, temperature, and current data. Network
Terminators are required for proper functioning of the AES network. Care should be taken to ensure they are installed.

Figure 5. The AESbus Network connected to Xanbus Network
discoverbattery.com

4.3 Verify Network Connections

To verify that all batteries are communicating over Xanbus, please review the following steps.
All networked Discover AES Lithium batteries will appear as a single battery, BattMon 00, in the Select Device screen
of the Conext System Control Panel (SCP). To view this screen, follow the steps below:
• SCP: (System Status screen) → Enter button → (Select Device screen)
• Once in this screen navigate with the ▲ and ▼ buttons to locate the BattMon 00 device. If the BattMon 00 is
listed, the Discover AES battery connection was successful.
• If connection is unsuccessful, check that network is correctly terminated and for any damage to the network
cabling, terminators and connectors. Confirm all batteries have the same firmware revision. Rectify any
problems and verify again.

4.3.2 Verify AEBus Connection

To verify that all batteries are communicating over AEBus follow the steps below:
• SCP: (System Status Screen) → Enter Button → (Select Device Screen) → ▲ and ▼ buttons to select (BattMon 00)
→ press Enter/▲/▼ buttons at the same time to enable access to → (Advanced Settings Menu)

If the connection was successful, the listed Capacity should be as follows:
Product 44-24-2800 42-48-6650
Capacity 110 Ah x number of batteries 130 Ah x number of batteries

If the connection is unsuccessful, check that network is correctly terminated and for any damage to the network
cabling, terminators and connectors. Confirm all batteries have the same firmware revision. Rectify any problems
and verify again.

5.0 CONFIGURATION SETTINGS

5.1 Fixed Settings

The settings in the table below are automatically set by AES batteries when they are connected via Xanbus. These settings
will automatically be reset by the AES battery if inadvertently adjusted by the user.
Settings

Nominal System Voltage
48V

Batt Type Custom

High Batt Cut Out 58.4 V
Low Batt Cut Out Hyst 3.5 V
High Batt Cut Out Hyst 2.4 V
High Batt Warning 57.6
Low Batt Warning 49.6
Low Batt Warning Hyst 1.9 V
High Batt Warning Hyst 1.6 V
Float Voltage 53.6 V
Battery Capacity
Determined by number of AES batteries on the
AEBus network. Eg. 2x 42-48-6650 = 260Ah

▲ NOTE!
Fixed settings and dynamically controlled settings are configured by the AES
battery. No user configuration is necessary. These settings will automatically be
reset by the AES battery if inadvertently adjusted by the user.

5.2 Dynamically Controlled Settings

These settings are dynamically Configured by AES Batteries Through Xanbus Network.
Settings

Nominal System Voltage
48V
Bulk Voltage Max 56.8V to charge and
balance efficiently without Absorption Voltage causing over voltage fault

Low Batt Cut Out (LBCO) 48 V

5.3 Recommended User-Adjustable Battery Related Settings

Recommended User-Adjustable Settings for XW+ Inverter/Charger.
Settings Description Nominal System
Voltage (48V)
Grid Supp Volts (GSV)
Setting GSV below 51.5V will likely cause under voltage protection
before LBCO setting. Set above Conext MPPT Solar Charge
Controllers equalization voltage for enhanced grid support
64V
ReCharge Volts
Setting ReCharge Volts higher allows for more back-up capacity.
Setting lower helps maximize self consumption. See Table 15 for
further guidance
Min 51.5 V
Max Chg Rate Limited to maximum battery bank current 1C
Charge Cycle 2-Stage

Recommended User-Adjustable Settings for Solar Charge Controllers.
Settings Description
Nominal System Voltage 48V
Max Chg Rate Limited to maximum battery bank current < 1C
Charge Cycle 2-Stage

Recommended User-Adjustable Settings for Automatic Generator Start (AGS).
AGS Triggers
Nominal System Voltage 48V
Start DCV 30 sec 49V (LCBO +1V)
Stop Absorb Disabled Disabled
Start SoC > 10%
Stop SoC < 95%
ReCharge Voltage Setting Guidance
Remaining Capacity
Nominal System Voltage 48V

10-15%* 49V*
15-20% 50V
20-30% 51.5V
40-50% 52V
80-90% 52.5V
90-100% 54V

* Not recommended. Inverter may display Low Batt Warning.
Figure 6. Grid Support Load Shave Mode.
(LBCO)V+1V
(RechargeV+0.5V)
(Grid Supp Volts)
Battery Voltage
LoadShave
Start (entry)
VBatt
LoadShave
Stop (exit)
(A)
Load Shave Mode
AC Pass-Through
Charge Mode

[littleharbor]

Pretty sure I'm going to get the Discovery LifePO4. Had a nice long conversation with an engineer at Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. $5,810 shipped. After the 26% tax credit that's $4,300.

.

Can you get the tax credit for this remote structure? Isn't it intended for your primary residence? I really don't know much about this credit but that one point I thought is right. Maybe not,

[Ampster]

Pretty sure I'm going to get the Discovery LifePO4. Had a nice long conversation with an engineer at Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. $5,810 shipped. After the 26% tax credit that's $4,300.
.........
I'm excited for this battery even though it hurts the wallet. If all goes the way I plan my generator use should be minimal, even in the winter.

I bought my Skybox from NAWS and some other balance of system parts. They have competitive prices and don't charge a California Sales Tax. I am pleased to see Lithium prices for those kind of self contained systems get below $1000 per kWhr. After tax credits that price is about $650 per kWhr. In addition, if I understand your system correctly, the Xanbus interconnectivity should work nicely with your inverter. It sounds like you have remote connectivity and that might give you the ability to change some parameters based on weather predictions if necessary. Keep us informed since there is not a great body of knowledge on this forum about LFP batteries and plenty of skepticism. I am not one of the skeptics since I have been messing with Lithium batteries for 7 years. I am a DIY kind of guy, but think there is real value in those type of Lithium battery systems with integrated Battery Management Systems.

[hammick]

If your temperatures are stable you might want to think of using the lithium pack in the winter because it is much more tolerant of partial charge cycles. Lithium is also more efficient so your existing array might be adequate. Those preconfigured packs are expensive but have all the bells and whistles to make them an easy thing to drop in to your system without much reconfiguring.
In four or five years the price of Lithium may be very competitive if the pundits are correct. By then you will have enough experience to make a decision about your future project. Good luck.

Pretty sure I'm going to get the Discovery LifePO4. Had a nice long conversation with an engineer at Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. $5,810 shipped. After the 26% tax credit that's $4,300.

I was worried about cold weather use but he assured me charging and discharging in a 45 to 55 degree garage is within the 10 year warranty spec. Spring, summer and fall my garage is usually around 65 degrees. So I will probably use it year round when I'm there. The Trojans will be my vacant bank. Even if they are too damaged to run big loads they should run my light loads when vacant for many years to come. If they need a lot of equalization I'll fork them outside on their pallet and boil away.

I'm excited for this battery even though it hurts the wallet. If all goes the way I plan my generator use should be minimal, even in the winter.

[Ampster]

............. I think I am going to get a Discover AES LifePO4 130 ah battery and use that during the Spring, Summer and Fall. The Trojan bank will be the array I use in the winter and when the place is vacant. I will set the LBCO to 48v when the place is vacant. I will charge the LifePO4 to 80% and store it in our living quarters which stays between 48 and 50 degrees even in the coldest temps.

I'm not willing to give up on my security cameras, weather station and Wifi thermostat so the inverter needs to stay on even in the winter.

I'm reluctant to add more panels now. In the next four or five years we might build a small house up there and if I do I will need to double my battery bank and probably nine more panels and an additional CC. Might even do a separate system for redundancy.

If your temperatures are stable you might want to think of using the lithium pack in the winter because it is much more tolerant of partial charge cycles. Lithium is also more efficient so your existing array might be adequate. Those preconfigured packs are expensive but have all the bells and whistles to make them an easy thing to drop in to your system without much reconfiguring.
In four or five years the price of Lithium may be very competitive if the pundits are correct. By then you will have enough experience to make a decision about your future project. Good luck.

[hammick]

Just the 5548 inverter is a significant load for batteries drawn that low, so shutting it off might be a better option for you. One thing you could do is install a dinkly little inverter like this Samlex

https://ressupply.com/inverters/samlex-s600r-148-pure-sine-wave-inverter

It draws only .23 amps at idle, which means only about 265wh per day, significantly less than the 1000+wh of the 5548. I would also add more panels to your arrays asap. My battery bank is also eight L-16s, which I keep charged with 4500 watts of panels. I can get 60 amps without trying too hard, even in winter. My arrays rotate, so I can keep some oriented SE and some oriented SW, so my controller is not overloaded with too many amps at noontime. But, at 7:30 am in the winter, I can point all my panels at the early morning sun and get full power to run my well pump.

Thanks. I currently have 2.6 kw of panels. For six months of the year I'm fully charged by noon. Even on cloudy days I can generally fully charge during the summer. We usually wake up at about 91 or 92% SOC. Winter is different story obviously. We were up for a few weeks over Christmas this year and the lowest SOC we would see in the morning was 77%. On sunny days we had no problem getting to 100% SOC.

My comfort level would allow for three more panels. I'd worry about frying my controller on very cold mornings with 15 panels. Having additional panels would have done nothing to prevent what happened though. Panels were covered with over a foot of snow that got hard and crunchy after it started to melt.

I charged to 63% yesterday and hope to get close to full today. My neighbors have a snowmobile being delivered today or tomorrow. They are going to head over and shut off my inverter.

I won't know if my battteries are shot or damaged until I can get up there in March and equalize them and take SQ readings. Hopefully a good amount of life is still left in them. I think I am going to get a Discover AES LifePO4 130 ah battery and use that during the Spring, Summer and Fall. The Trojan bank will be the array I use in the winter and when the place is vacant. I will set the LBCO to 48v when the place is vacant. I will charge the LifePO4 to 80% and store it in our living quarters which stays between 48 and 50 degrees even in the coldest temps.

I'm not willing to give up on my security cameras, weather station and Wifi thermostat so the inverter needs to stay on even in the winter.

I'm reluctant to add more panels now. In the next four or five years we might build a small house up there and if I do I will need to double my battery bank and probably nine more panels and an additional CC. Might even do a separate system for redundancy.

[MichaelK!]

Just the 5548 inverter is a significant load for batteries drawn that low, so shutting it off might be a better option for you. One thing you could do is install a dinkly little inverter like this Samlex

https://ressupply.com/inverters/samlex-s600r-148-pure-sine-wave-inverter

It draws only .23 amps at idle, which means only about 265wh per day, significantly less than the 1000+wh of the 5548. I would also add more panels to your arrays asap. My battery bank is also eight L-16s, which I keep charged with 4500 watts of panels. I can get 60 amps without trying too hard, even in winter. My arrays rotate, so I can keep some oriented SE and some oriented SW, so my controller is not overloaded with too many amps at noontime. But, at 7:30 am in the winter, I can point all my panels at the early morning sun and get full power to run my well pump.

[hammick]

Had a guy and his son snowmobile up and clear the panels. They got stuck for an hour with snowmobiles. My batteries went down to 19% SOC. They are currently at 22%

Full day of sun forecast for tomorrow. If I don't charge to over 50% tomorrow I'm going to have to get somebody inside to turn off the inverter.