Best way to measure Amp output from iota DLS-27-40

[Skunkarific]

I have an iota DLS-27-40 charging my 24 volt battery bank (2 rows of 4 6v 230 ah) The unit has failed before, and was replaced. I have a feeling that I'm getting very little power from the replacement unit, I have a cheap induction ammeter which is showing an output of 12A, this is when the batteries are at 24 volts. My gut feeling is that this is correct, as it takes nearly 24 hours to completely charge the system. I tested my generator (1.8 kw) with a 1500W heater, it glows bright red, so I don't think that's the problem. I'm using 4 gauge 1 meter wire to make the connection between the charger and the batteries, and a 10 gauge, 2 meter cord from the genny to a nema receptacle. The plug on the charger has not been altered. My question is, what is the best way to measure the output amperage of the charger? The folks at iota are willing to stand behind their product, but only if I can demonstrate with some level of competence that it isn't performing as it should.

[Mike90250]

As batteries charge up, their acceptance of charging current tapers off. The Iota is a robust, but simple, "constant voltage" charger. If the battery is not accepting any more current, the charger is unable to force it in. What about adding some massive loads to your system, does the charger source more power then ?

What is the power factor spec for your Iota and for your generator ? 40A @ 27V is 1,080 watts, factor in some power factor & efficiency losses and I think you are at your generator limit, if not beyond.

[Skunkarific]

I am aware that as batteries charge up they will allow less power in. However, at 24 volts, when the solar panels are working, they can take in 2200 Watts from the classic 150. So I don't think it is the batteries being fully charged that is doing it.

The DLS 27-40 it's not a single stage charger. It is a 4 stage intelligent charger. It works very similar to a charge controller as far as being able to to bulk, absorb, and float.

The charger is supposed to draw 1350 Watts, and put out 1080. The generator is 1800 watts, and as I stated in my original message, I was able to run a 1500 watt heater at full bore. No problems. It glowed bright red and stayed that way for an hour.

Also, my question was which was the best way to measure the amperage? Even if everything you said was correct, I would still want to know what was going on, and what I was looking for was a recommendation as to what piece of Hardware you might use. I'm thinking an inline High amperage and meter, and I thought you might have some suggestions.

[travissand]

Well to answer your question with a amp meter of course. You can get the handheld the multimeter type. Some of them have a clamp that goes around the outside of the wire so you don't have to change any wiring but most of those ones will only measure AC amperage not DC. The ones that measure DC are considerably expensive.

You could also get a cheap hobby amp meter like this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Mon...oAAOSwz7RdEy-Z

But for a more robust unit look for the square LCD readout with the separate shunt. There's also plenty of aftermarket battery state-of-charge systems that are designed to help you understand your true state of charge and they'll tell you amps in and out of the battery as well.

If you have a nice charge controller like a midnite classic or a outback they have add on AMP meters you can purchase that I highly recommend. You can place on the battery to help them identify how many amps of their output are actually making it to the battery versus how many are going to a load of some kind . For the midnight classics called the whiz-bang jr. this is what I'm using when it gets dark I turn off all loads and look at that to tell me how many amps I'm getting from my iota. And with the iota you can also open the case on some of the models & turn tiny plastic screws to adjust its maximum output amperage and a separate screw to adjust its maximum output voltage. The screws are variable resistors called trim pots and they're very fragile so you have to be super delicate and you don't want to have to adjust it very often or you'll have to replace them.

[Mike90250]

I'm going to just stonewall you like IOTA is. You are not using the product right. Your generator cannot provide enough power to compensate for the internal losses due to POWER FACTOR.. And if your batteries are full, they won't consume 40A. Run your batteries down, plug the iota into a 4Kw generator and you will see it charge.

And to measure 40 DC amps, you need a capable meter as travissand said. A DC clamp on meter should be fine.

Read up on Power Factor. I think the Iota's are about 0.65PF - I'll look at the label on mine tomorrow. It takes a stout generator to drive it.
This Model from Iota https://www.iotaengineering.com/dlsui2740pfc.htm
has PFC and can run from a 15A outlet. The plain DLS does not and is not likely to run well until you have a 3 - 4 kw generator. Household power would be fine, as the grid is able to supply poor PF devices.

[travissand]

I can confirm the power factor in my older iota charger is horrible. power factor is hard to understand for the beginner but basically what it means is if your generator is capable of 3000 Watts and your charger is only capable of pulling in 2400 watts but your power factor is bad you might not be able to run that charger because although the charger is only consuming 2400 watts in fact there is over 3000 Watts moving through the wire which will trip the breaker.

When I try and run both of my iota chargers totaling 1920 Watts off of my Honda eu3000 it immediately overloads my Honda. It feels so strange because I can hear its engine tone it's not even near its maximum but yet it overloads anyway.