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  • Generator recommendation

    Not sure if this is the right forum but I have a 24v system and a professional car charger that does 30amp at 24v. I have a small 1800w champion generator and it's my third in 2 and a half years and seems to be going out. Yes they will replace parts and whatnot to get it up again but this is just a joke. Any recommendations for a decent generator that can run every night for a few hours to replenish battery bank with this charger?

  • #2
    Most of the <10kw generators have about a 500 hr lifetime. The honda eu series are an exception, as long as you do oil changes every 50 hours

    500hr is the EPA spec, and the companies won't spend a nickel more to get better lifetime
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment


    • #3
      What do you use?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by morton.bia
        I have a small 1800w champion generator and it's my third in 2 and a half years and seems to be going out. Yes they will replace parts and whatnot to get it up again but this is just a joke.
        Does the motor wear out, leaving a good alternator? Any chance of just changing the motor, would
        synthetic oil help? My 27 HP overhead valve tractor for the 5 acres here shows no signs of wear at
        close to 500 hours, dino oil and filter change about every 80 hours.

        Maybe those high tech Hondas have upgraded the ignition advance system, they can make good
        use of it with variable speed. I have not tried to on my latest 27 HP because there is no front shaft
        to hang my crank trigger on. Bruce Roe

        Comment


        • #5
          bcroe,

          please, a bit more info on crank trigger......make,model, of is this a one off. I need something for Onan's, no shaft, but a huge flywheel cooling fan , photoelectric, or magnetic sensor possible....thanx, david

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm no expert in small engines. I do change oil every 40 hours or so. I live in the desert so there's always fine sand getting in the carburetor which I clean every so often. The generator starts "galloping" and popping the 15a fuse even though I'm not even close to using 15a with my charger. Last time I measured I was using 4-5afrom generator. I haven't been able to find a small generator like that with an oil or fuel filter either

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by morton.bia View Post
              What do you use?
              a 1920's style diesel generator, factory claimed 50,000 hrs lifetime, with regular maintenance..

              20190514_100225.png

              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

              Comment


              • #8
                I wish my EU-3000i had an hour meter.

                I have lived part time off grid with only the generator for power. I have used it to keep my house going during power outages as long as 11days running 24/7.

                I've had it for 12 years with no serious issues. I have changed the oil, air filter and spark plug regularly. I did take it to the shop once for a carb rebuild.

                Regarding the Champion, there are a significant number of folks over on RV.net that speak very highly about them. You may consider posting your question over there as well.

                Good luck!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Tecnodave View Post
                  bcroe,

                  please, a bit more info on crank trigger......make,model, of is this a one off. I need something for Onan's, no shaft, but a huge flywheel cooling fan , photoelectric, or magnetic sensor possible....thanx, david
                  Given that we often depend on small gas IC motors to keep systems healthy, I hope this is not far off
                  subject. Some of these run a lot of hours a year, so best fuel economy is important.

                  My 20HP 90 degree twin would cut most grass, but if I hit a heavy section it might drop below 3000
                  rpm and immediately stall. This very annoying behavior was because the torque went away with the
                  rpm. This in turn was because the spark advance did not adjust, being fixed at about 22 deg. It
                  also would not idle below 1500 rpm, let alone do anything useful at that rpm. It used a lot of gas.

                  I saw a need to vary the spark advance over rpm, and over manifold vacuum, already observed to
                  be very important for cars. Ford used an EDIS waste fire system, the advance controlled by
                  electronics. Each crank revolution fired a coil connected to 2 plugs, one cyl at ignition, the other cyl
                  a revolution away in exhaust stroke. Since my 2 cylinders were at 90 deg, I used half of a V8 ign
                  (2 coils) with the unused coil outputs grounded to complete the circuit. See pictures and details in
                  album CRANK TRIGGER IGNITION in my PHOTOBUCKET, user bcroe.

                  http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/L71/bcroe/
                  click on an Album
                  click on a picture to enlarge + description

                  The EDIS required an electronic input, supplied by a laptop programmable MLJ module
                  I bought from AUTO SPORTS LABS.

                  https://forum.autosportlabs.com

                  I really just set the advance for 4 extremes, near max and min rpm, near max and min manifold
                  vacuum. That was enough, the MLJ extrapolated between, and the results were dramatic. When
                  rpm was loaded down, it did not stall, it just kept pulling. It would idle at 700 rpm, and the tractor
                  could do real work in the gas saving 800 to 1200 rpm range. Fuel economy was way up, I could
                  now mow the 5 acres without stopping for a refill. And it no longer made a big BANG when shut
                  off. Bruce Roe
                  Last edited by bcroe; 05-24-2019, 02:01 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Bruce,

                    thanks for that info, my Onan's do not vary the spark on vacuum or rpm, very basic pushrods off the camshaft with one set points triggering a dual lead coil, 180 degree opposed twin. Have Delta Mark 10 capacitor discharge ignition triggered by points. (very early electronic ignition for automobiles) and Stewart Warner engine protection unit for auto shut down on fault..temp,oil pressure and exhaust temp. Very reliable but they do burn a bit too much gas. I keep them as they are very reliable. There is one on my family homestead in Matanauska Valley Alaska, Been there since the '50's, never rebuilt completely. Still runs! I don't use mine for solar backup anymore. I have the Emerald 4 (4kw 120 volt) unit built into my service truck for power on remote job sites. I can use my welder so on this unit with no issues at all but a much smaller Champion 7.5 kW unit stalls when suddenly loaded as in heavy welding. I put up with the fuel costs as it is a part of a job and is billable as expense. The larger NH-3 (6.6 kW 120/240) is on skids with battery and fuel tank mounted in frame, only used for really big jobs. They always work when I get out on a service call....trying to retire but that is difficult these days. I will research this ignition further.
                    thanx...david

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tecnodave View Post
                      Bruce,

                      thanks for that info, my Onan's do not vary the spark on vacuum or rpm, very basic pushrods off the camshaft with one set points
                      thanx...david
                      David,

                      I think, if varying advance at one load point can increase manifold vacuum, then fuel economy
                      can be improved at that point. Bruce

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        OP, do you need 120v or 240v service from the generator? What is your budget? I have been real happy with the 3500 W Harbor Freight inverter generator. For oil in my small engines I use Amsoil Z-rod Synth for the hi ZDDP (zinc) content. Good for flat-tappet camshafts in old muscle cars and small 4 stroke engines.
                        285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Matrix View Post
                          OP, do you need 120v or 240v service from the generator? What is your budget? I have been real happy with the 3500 W Harbor Freight inverter generator. For oil in my small engines I use Amsoil Z-rod Synth for the hi ZDDP (zinc) content. Good for flat-tappet camshafts in old muscle cars and small 4 stroke engines.
                          Yes the only roller cam here is the Honda (431,000 miles). All my 70s car engines, and all small engines
                          (generator, stump cutter, tractor, trencher, walker mower, others) need high zinc to last. Maybe that has
                          something to do with short generator life? I use break in oil additive for them all, which I see suddenly had
                          a huge price boost. Its working, engines pass a quarter million miles easily. When my multiple cases of
                          additive run out, will probably switch to even more expensive synthetic.

                          The 2 cycle chain saw gets its own brand of oil additive. Bruce Roe

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I just need 120v and use Walmart's 5w20. I'll check the harbor freight inverter generator and switch oils. Maybe that will help

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              In a new small engine (pressure washer / mower / etc) I use factory oil for the first 4 hours. Then I use Z-Rod and change again at 8-12 hours. Both times the oil comes out with a slick film of silver metal shavings. I then run another 20 or so hours and change it again. Oil is still a tad silver. But but at this point I feel it is broke in and can go on normal regular intervals. Just my .02
                              285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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