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Matching Amps of appliance to charge controller

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  • Matching Amps of appliance to charge controller

    My charge controller is a CE CMP12. It has a 30 amp "Load", I believe. I want to plug in a 12v appliance that has a max input of 10 amps. I need to do the equation and calculate for adding a resistor for this?

    New at electronics. I hooked up a car cigarette lighter adapter 30 amp, and plugged in a USB port adapter, charged my phone. Tested my DC water pump and that worked also. To hook up multiple appliances I need a terminal bay? What is that called? Is there a variety with switches?

    Enjoying this new hobby. Not going to live here long enough to warrant getting a grid tied system.

    Thanks, M

  • #2
    Originally posted by MadnessGrid View Post
    My charge controller is a CE CMP12. It has a 30 amp "Load", I believe. I want to plug in a 12v appliance that has a max input of 10 amps. I need to do the equation and calculate for adding a resistor for this?
    If your controller and batteries are configured for a 12V system, and you are certain your Load terminals are rated for 30A, you simply connect your 10A load, and it will be supplied 12V at up to 30A if it demands that much. After 30A , something else will happen.




    New at electronics. I hooked up a car cigarette lighter adapter 30 amp, and plugged in a USB port adapter, charged my phone. Tested my DC water pump and that worked also. To hook up multiple appliances I need a terminal bay? What is that called? Is there a variety with switches?
    Blue Seas has many sorts of boating electrical parts, and I'd look at their stuff first.
    Fuses at the battery so that a shorted wire, protected by they proper size fuse, will blow a fuse, not start a fire.
    https://www.bluesea.com/products/215...k_-_30_to_300A

    power distribution center
    https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/25/DC_Panels


    Enjoying this new hobby. Not going to live here long enough to warrant getting a grid tied system. Thanks, M
    Welcome !
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    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

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    • #3
      Wow, cool. Thanks again!

      Powered an old broke/recycled camper lantern light with it today. Fun. I think I'll stay 12v as long as I can and upgrade to 24 at the most. Trying to skip the inverter also. Tight budget.

      Wired a bunch of my smaller panels together and tested out my first volt meter that can measure amps! My previous one was only for testing batteries.

      I'll have to measure the volts from my cable to my 100w panel. Those are long wires gauge 5.

      Did I retain this correct from today's lessons, if you make a 24v system the wire can be thinner?

      Attached Files

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      • #4
        Oops I mean gauge 10.

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        • #5
          I should have less than 3% loss from measuring at the end of my connection wires compared to right at the panel? (Why the charge light got dimmer when I added the long wires, despite the sun being brighter)?

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          • #6
            I was scratching my head, why doesn't it say the amps for the 12v 100w panel? That's an Ohms law equation? Amps = Watts/Volts, 8.3333...?

            My 30 amp charge controller can support 2 more like panels wired parallel 12v? Or maybe 2 sets of 2 in series/24v?

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            • #7
              Oops again! My charge controller is 10 amp charge and load max. My first system is already maxed out concerning the panel. I can add more batteries and load only. So far just powering a USB charging air pump and my phone. Need to install current limiting diodes to panels to prevent them from drawing current at night?

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