Hardwiring a small AC Breaker Box to an Inverter

[soluuurrrrvoltman]

Hi, I am new here on the forum, and would just like any help on wiring a small AC breaker box to a hardwire connection from an inverter (it is designed to hardwire). The manual doesn't entirely tell though. I am in the process of converting an extended high top van into a camper/travel van. I've found a diagram somewhere online that makes sense for the inverter wiring, maybe just a little confirmation that the diagram is correct would help. I've also included a large diagram for my set-up, and inside the breaker box if that helps. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Here's what I'm working with:

- PANELS....................(4) Renogy 100w 12v mono (in parallel)
- CH.CONTR...............Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT
- BATT. BANK..............(2) 2kwh Chevrolet Volt lithium modules rewired for 12v (in parallel)

- INVERTER................Windynation vertamax pure sine 3000
- BREAKER BOX........Square D Homeline 4-Circuit 2-Space 70-Amp Main Lug Load Center (going to install small ground bar)
- BREAKERS..............Square D Homeline Homeline 20 &15-Amp 1-Pole Circuit Breaker


inverter to breaker box.jpgSquare D Homeline 4-Circuit 2-Space 70-Amp.jpg Complete Solar System Wiring.jpg

[Matrix]

From a quick glance at the specs of this inverter, it is NOT rated for hardwire installation in home or mobile applications. And I would not want to run 3000 watts thru a single receptacle plug. As a matter of fact, from what i could see in the specs - or not see - it has no "ratings" at all. There are no UL certifications. Not for mobile and certainly not for in home use. In home use should be UL certified UL 1741 and mobile would be UL 458. From what I see this inverter has neither. I also do not see where the inverter has knock outs for hardwire, so this implies the seller does not intend it to be hardwired.

You "could" wire it as your diagram indicates at your own risk ... but IMHO, you should not be using 12 awg at all at 28+ amps (110v x 28 amps = 3080 watts). 10 awg would be a minimum

Others on this forum (and I agree) are going to tell you that 12v is too small for a 3000 watt inverter of any type. You really should consider a minimum 24v for this size. I recommend you read this Sticky Inverter Size vs Battery Size before going forward

FWIW ... Your mileage may vary.
DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

[Mike90250]

Be careful relying on AC breakers powered by an inverter, Generally., breakers expect Hover Dam to be powering them, to trip them. Small inverters often cannot supply enough current to trip a 15A, 120VAC breaker

[soluuurrrrvoltman]

Thanks for the replies. Despite not having a UL listing, it does accept hardwiring. I won't be running the inverter 24/7, nor will I ever pull over 2000w; usually no more than 1500w. The inverter itself has 3 outlets built in, I will be adding 2 receptacles, for 7 total "plug-ins," and a switched AC water pump. I never plan to draw current from all simultaneously. It's mainly for convenience of spaced apart outlets in the van. I just need to know how exactly to wire the "hot, neutral, and ground" from the inverter to the panel. Vertamax 3000w inverter.PNG
Vertamax 3000w inverter specs.PNG



* I am aware of some of a 12v system's limitations. However I would like to remain at 12v for greater ah's from the lithium battery bank.

** The hardwire connections are behind a plate on the left. (number 5)

*** If things get too hot, I definitely will increase the voltage. The highest current drawn would be from a 1500w AC toaster oven(on max), and then if the miniature AC fridge kicks on (around 750w) at the same time.

Thanks for the replies!

[Matrix]

Then I believe you would do exactly as the line sketch drawing you posted suggests. place a jumper wire in the load panel between L1 and L2 to energize both breakers. Either that or get a load panel that is specific to 120v instead of 240v

- Hot (L) goes to the breaker busbar with a jumper wire for L1 and L2
- Neutral (N) and ground (GND) would go to the bonded neutral busbar. At least that is how it is wired in a home load panel. Neutral and ground get bonded together. And I am guessing you would ground that to the vehicle chaise?

[soluuurrrrvoltman]

I will be grounding it to the chassis. Thanks for the advice, I'll post on how it goes once everything is up and running.

***and a breaker may do nothing more than serve as a kill switch with lower current from a smaller inverter, but I feel better having it there.

[Mike90250]

no GFCI on that inverter