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  • Charge controler shut down

    Hello, this is my first post on the forum so hope it in the correct section.
    Ok i'm new to solar and have just bought some basic gear ie LG 300 panel, PWM charge controler although i soon found out that MPPT was better so bought a SMK MPPT 80A unit.
    The Unit seems to work real well when it comes to charging although i have found one or two small glitches from time to time but nothing major, however i decided to install some DC outdoor lights the other day which would work off a timer so they would come on and go off at a set time, i used the load connection on the controller which is more than caperbal of handling the 40 watts that the lights will pull, the load max output on the controller is 60A.
    The controller has three lights on the front panel RED when there is no solar coming in, BLUE (flashing) when charging BLUE (solid) when in float mode, GREEN load on

    The problem is after dark when there is no solar coming in the controller goes to sleep and the red light comes on and by doing this it shuts down the load outlet (turnes off the green light) so when the timer kicks in there is no power from the controller so no lights.

    I've connected the lights timer directly to the battery and all is working as it should but i can't help think that this must be wrong, what's the point of having a load outlet if you can only use it in daylight, i can't find anything in the user manual to say you can stop the controller from closing down after dark so this shut down looks to be automatic, i guess it's to save power.

    Anyway if anyone has any ideas on why or how i could get around this i'd be very grateful to hear them, as i say it's nothing major but would like to now why if possible.

    Take care
    john



  • #2
    john.b ,
    What is the value of the "LOAD OFF VOLTAGE" menu option?
    What is the voltage of the battery pack at the input of the controller's terminals when the Load is auto-disconnected?,

    Comment


    • #3
      Many charge controllers that have a load control function need to be programmed to turn on and off the lights. They usually have many options from OFF to many various hourly increments, triggered at dusk, to on 24 hours. You actually don't need the timer if you set the load function up to control your lighting.
      2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by NEOH View Post
        john.b ,
        What is the value of the "LOAD OFF VOLTAGE" menu option?
        What is the voltage of the battery pack at the input of the controller's terminals when the Load is auto-disconnected?,
        Load off voltage is set at 12.20 volts
        Sorry i'm not sure what you mean with your second question, so just done a quick test the battery is at 12.70v at the battery turminals but at the controller turminals it's only 9.20v i tried another batter as this didn't seem right to have that kind of drop and when i unhooked the negative lead from the battery i found it to be warm, it's dark here now so nothing going in and nothing going out, the only thing between the battery and the controller is a watt meter so very worrying the negative lead is warm, this is the older AGM bank so maybe it's not as good as i thought, i also put the test meter on the load when off it's jumping from 8-10v

        With the new sealed battery hooked up it's at 12.85v at the battery turminals and the same at the controller turminals.

        Take care
        john

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by littleharbor View Post
          Many charge controllers that have a load control function need to be programmed to turn on and off the lights. They usually have many options from OFF to many various hourly increments, triggered at dusk, to on 24 hours. You actually don't need the timer if you set the load function up to control your lighting.
          Thanks for that i din't know i could do that, the unit is quite basic with just four screens for changing battery type and voltage, time, date and one for connecting to wifi but i'll have another look at the user manual and go through it again tomorrow as that would be great if i can use it in that way.

          Thank you

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by john.b View Post

            Load off voltage is set at 12.20 volts
            Sorry i'm not sure what you mean with your second question, so just done a quick test the battery is at 12.70v at the battery turminals but at the controller turminals it's only 9.20v i tried another batter as this didn't seem right to have that kind of drop and when i unhooked the negative lead from the battery i found it to be warm, it's dark here now so nothing going in and nothing going out, the only thing between the battery and the controller is a watt meter so very worrying the negative lead is warm, this is the older AGM bank so maybe it's not as good as i thought, i also put the test meter on the load when off it's jumping from 8-10v

            With the new sealed battery hooked up it's at 12.85v at the battery turminals and the same at the controller turminals.

            Take care
            john
            Yes, you did it correct - measure the battery voltage at Charge Controller terminals.
            I think you have found your problem ... LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE at the Charge Controllers Terminals.
            Sounds like ...
            a) An Under-charged or Sulfated Battery
            b) A Dead Battery
            c) A BAD CONNECTION?

            Warm wires are not good.
            Was it at the battery connection ?
            A bad connection can cause warm wires and an unexpected voltage drop.
            You need clean & tight connections.

            So, when ever the Battery Voltage, measured at the Charge Controller Terminals ( not at the battery terminals )
            drops below 12.2 Volts your LOAD automatically turns OFF

            Under-Voltage protection
            Last edited by NEOH; 10-09-2017, 03:02 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by john.b View Post

              Thanks for that i din't know i could do that, the unit is quite basic with just four screens for changing battery type and voltage, time, date and one for connecting to wifi but i'll have another look at the user manual and go through it again tomorrow as that would be great if i can use it in that way.

              Thank you
              I do not think there are any Menu Settings for "Load On-Time / Off-Time" in this controller,
              only the Load Low Voltage setting that we discussed.
              Last edited by NEOH; 10-09-2017, 03:06 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by john.b View Post
                [...] just done a quick test the battery is at 12.70v at the battery turminals but at the controller turminals it's only 9.20v [...] when i unhooked the negative lead from the battery i found it to be warm, it's dark here now so nothing going in and nothing going out, [...]
                If you had a 3.5 V voltage drop between the controller and the battery terminals, and the lead from the battery was 'quite warm', I suggest that you did indeed have 'something' going in or going out. I would try to figure out what that was. The fact that a replacement battery read the same voltage at the controller and the battery might put some suspicion on the physical connection of the first battery as well as the capacity of the first battery.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by NEOH View Post

                  Yes, you did it correct - measure the battery voltage at Charge Controller terminals.
                  I think you have found your problem ... LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE at the Charge Controllers Terminals.
                  Sounds like ...
                  a) An Under-charged or Sulfated Battery
                  b) A Dead Battery
                  c) A BAD CONNECTION?

                  Warm wires are not good.
                  Was it at the battery connection ?
                  A bad connection can cause warm wires and an unexpected voltage drop.
                  You need clean & tight connections.

                  So, when ever the Battery Voltage, measured at the Charge Controller Terminals ( not at the battery terminals )
                  drops below 12.2 Volts your LOAD automatically turns OFF

                  Under-Voltage protection

                  From what your saying i think this is 100% my fault, the battery is an old one and although i bought a desulfator i've not yet use it on this one yet, the connection is by crocodile clip, i've just been back out to make sure all had cooled down after i'd disconnected it and found the negative clip to be quite tarnished, i cleaned the clip and did another test the same and found the battery voltage was the same at the battery and the controller this time so looks like it was a bad connection, i'll scrap the crocodile clips and make up some better leads with a more positive connection and will try the load again on the lights to see if that work.

                  I guess that's my first lesson in solar and battery connection, simple things make a big difference.
                  Thanks again for your help i'll drop a line on in a day or two with an update.

                  Take care
                  john

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by AzRoute66 View Post
                    If you had a 3.5 V voltage drop between the controller and the battery terminals, and the lead from the battery was 'quite warm', I suggest that you did indeed have 'something' going in or going out. I would try to figure out what that was. The fact that a replacement battery read the same voltage at the controller and the battery might put some suspicion on the physical connection of the first battery as well as the capacity of the first battery.
                    Hi, I'm sure this problem is as you suggest and was a bad connection, please see my reply to NEON above.
                    Many thanks for your input always appreciated

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Typical wire gauge associated with an Alligator clip is pretty light. While you are reconfiguring your connections you might want to verify your wire sizes and make sure they are correct. You might want to skip the desulphater and go straight to a new battery.
                      2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by littleharbor View Post
                        Typical wire gauge associated with an Alligator clip is pretty light. While you are reconfiguring your connections you might want to verify your wire sizes and make sure they are correct. You might want to skip the desulphater and go straight to a new battery.
                        Wire and clips come of an old car jump start so quite heavy but i now understand the clips are not really up to the job, i have some leads off an old inverter which are heavy so should make a much better job if they will go into the controller connections, if not i'll buy some new, looking at the manual it's recommending 4awg

                        I bought the desulphater not really knowing what or how good it would work but think new batteries would be a better way to go and i'll make sure there the same as the new on i just bought and keep the bank the same.

                        Thank you again for your help

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi Guys
                          Just a quick update, i replaced the clips and leads for some 4 AWG with an eyelet for a better battery connection so no more heating up,the voltage is now the same at the controller as it is at the battery and the load is now staying on after dark and the timer is working as it should so all is great and i'm a happy chap.
                          Thank you all again for your help.
                          Take care
                          john

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