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  • Solar Charge Controller Issues!

    Well, let me start by introducing myself! My name is Will. I am new to SolarPanelTalk.com and would appreciate any insight into this issue. I was on several other forums but they are very inactive...this one seems to thrive!

    Okay my setup is as follows:
    2-Deka Marine Masters(DC27) batteries.
    1-Steca LCD30 Charge Controller
    1-Solarex MSX 60 watt PV Module.
    wiring is "trailer entrance wire" 02 guage (30 feet to the charge controller and 10 to the batteries).

    my system runs a number of small LED lights and a indoor car stereo system complete with 100 watt amp, and subwoofer. It has worked flawlessly for years now. Recently upgraded the single battery to the pair of Deka batteries and tested the system. Noticed two things. One, the panel at night produces about .5 volts but when hooked to the controller the reading jumps to 1.4V or so, <does this mean it is back feeding the panel from the batteries?>This particular controller is supposed to NOT do that at all. Two, the load terminals work like they are supposed to when on, but I noticed that there is 7.6 volts of power on the terminals even when the controller says that load is off. Something I was told just the other day is that I should use the stereo system on the battery side not the load side since it could draw more than 10 amps and the controller is setup to have up to 10 amps on the load side. However, that does not explain why these anomalies are occurring. Please advise.

    Any tips are appreciated.

    William
    Chloe, WV.

  • #2
    If you apply too large of a load for the controller to manage on the LOAD TERMINALS, the controller can be damaged internally, The manuals usually explain the load limits
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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    • #3
      To my knowledge I have not exceeded the load limits(though according to literature included with this device the max load out is 10amp). The manual also states that it has protection to prevent exceeding it. The only problem with digital controllers like this is that I cannot replace a cap or resistor when it degrades.

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      • #4
        That could be totally normal if there is no load on the controller. LED lights are like zeners and a string could stop working at that voltage and not draw any more current. Capacitors could keep that voltage for a long time. Try a small incandescent 12V lamp on the output. If it continues to light it is time to use that warranty.

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        • #5
          So upon further testing the load sides "phantom power" issue when the thing is off but it still has about 7 volts showing on my meter...is apparently very very little. The amperage on it must be well below usable. It will not spin any little cpu fans, but it will barely light a single LED bulb for just a second or two then it goes out, and the reading is 0 volts. Take the bulb off the circuit and the voltage goes back up to 7ish volts. I am seriously at a loss. I contacted the manufacturer and they said that should not be the case. When I bought this controller I spent 70 bucks on it but now we can get the same one(newer version) for about 30 from amazon...so I think I might just order a new one and forget worrying with this one. It would be the easiest way to eliminate these issues.

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          • #6
            Is this actually causing any problem? I can light a LED with a few pico amps. A new controller may do the same thing. A bleed resistor of 4.7K to common may do the trick if these is an issue.

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            • #7
              I don't suppose it is causing any issues, it does not appear to be draining or straining the battery bank...it was just something I noticed that is not "as described" by the manufacturer. The manufacturer actually told me that it is an issue they have never heard of, but to be fair, we were both using translation tools to convey the problem/answer. The controller also has the ability to stop feed back into the panels. I tested the panels without being on the controller and after being plugged into the controller and the voltage is the same until night time. At which time the .4 or .5 volts on the panel becomes 1.4volts when plugged in...another anomaly I suppose.

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              • #8
                Most meters are a very high impedance device. Some components have considerable leakage, like Schottky diodes. Circuitry can have drain off resistors to insure turn off of switching components. Go to a parts store and buy some 4.7K resistors. These can be placed in series or parallel on the load. Determine what is necessary to bring the voltage to an acceptable level. In the scope of things this is very small leakage. A battery will loose 1% of its charge each day doing nothing and a controller will be using some power all night.

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                • #9
                  I am experiencing the same transient voltage issue on the load output of my LCD30 controller.

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