Is my MPPT CC killing my 12V AGM battery at 16V?

[inetdog]

I think the 8-32 is the battery side limits. Below 8V (at night) there isn't enough voltage to run the internal electronics and above 32V from an external source like another controller could damage it..

Probably, but the spec is found grouped with clear input specifications on the input side of the label, not the output side.

[PNPmacnab]

I think the 8-32 is the battery side limits. Below 8V (at night) there isn't enough voltage to run the internal electronics and above 32V from an external source like another controller could damage it..

[inetdog]

Interesting pictures, thank you.

The contents of the black potting at the top of one photo appears, from surface irregularities, to be two toroidal coils, a good indicator of true MPPT.
But the input side working range from 8-32V is hard to understand.
It may be able to withstand an input Voc from panel string of 150V, but if the MPPT range peaks out at 32V it is not clear how useful the unit really is.
I hope that that is just a misleading printed spec.

[boatmaster]

I just got the 2215BN today and it totally solves my problem. It might be one or two sizes to big for my setup, but this way i can put up another 13 panels when I need more power down the stream. For those who are interested in what it looks like on the inside, I made some photos. It is actually a lot bigger and heavier (1.5kg), than I thought.


2215BN-3.JPG

2215BN-2.JPG

2215BN-1.JPG

[PNPmacnab]

Need I say more, I'll leave that to others. Firm believer in they always shoot the messenger.

I'd love one that is damaged and out of warranty.

[boatmaster]

Of course we can't see what is between the circuit board and the heat sink either....

Well, now we can, since I took a little further apart:

1.JPG

2.JPG


@Mike90250: I havn't received the EPSolar Tracer 2215bn yet, but will post the "insights" asap.

[Mike90250]

Edit - the EPSolar Tracer 2215bn spec looks like it might be MPPT. the only pics I've seen were of the Bogus controller

[inetdog]

Well, it looks like it's a legit MPPT controller. I guess you have to report back to us, as to how well it works

Is this based on direct manufacturer information?
Or the posted specs?:

"Then I took a look at the specs of the Controller:
Maximum Power Current: 30A
System Load loss: < 13mA
Loop Buck: < 100mV
Battery Float Voltage: 13.8V
Discharge Stop: 10.6V
Discharge Resume: 12.6V
Temperature compensation: -4mV/Cell/˚C
Solar panels maximum open circuit voltage: < 48V
Peak power of solar panel: 380W"

The 48V input and up to 380W panel power with 30A nominal 12 output are all consistent enough, but unless they use a really high frequency and some of what appear to be resistors are really inductors, I just do not see support for that in the photo. Of course we can't see what is between the circuit board and the heat sink either....

[PNPmacnab]

I fail to see anything in this that would make this a MPPT controller except in wind turbine use. I do like the external current carrying bars to the FETs rather than relying on copper foil with built up solder. Great picture quality. I appreciate those who can take a good photo. I do think the controller is somehow to blame.

[Mike90250]

Well, it looks like it's a legit MPPT controller. I guess you have to report back to us, as to how well it works

Edit - the EPSolar Tracer 2215bn spec looks like it might be MPPT. the only pics I've seen were of the Bogus controller

[PNPmacnab]

Really appreciate those pictures. I've wondered what those controllers had inside.

[boatmaster]

@PNjunction: Thanks for your hint to CruisersForum.

I have the PV system and board battery permanently isolated from the starter batts for safety reasons.
Wasn't always that way and got me into trouble once.

I power the lighting, the pumps, fridge and laptop with it and always seem to have enough power.
I use the boat only three months of the year, but in that time I discharge the battery daily to about 70% of its capacity.
The rest of the year its sitting on a trailer in the yard, which leaves the panels exposed to the sun for most of the time.

Should I adjust the settings of the controller in those periods?

Since the CCs I had so far have proven to be crap, I am looking at an EPSolar Tracer 2215bn + MT50 right now.
It seems to be fully adjustable and is available to me within a couple of days. Yeah I know, but there's no amazon Down Under.

Mike90250 and Sunking: Any warnings? I don't want to be buying chi-com junk again.

[PNjunction]

Since we know that 3 of them shoot to 16v, don't even use them at all. I suspect there is something else going on as well.

I don't think that controller is adjustable. Or if it is, the only thing you can adjust is the float voltage, which would only be good for infrequent use of the battery.

Which brings up a few questions about the environment you are wanting to use them in:

1) Is this just a stand-alone system to power up some random things, and if so, what are they and how long do you think you'll be operating them daily / weekly?

2) Are you planning to recharge from the boat's alternator, or other source such as shore power?

3) Is this battery somehow tied into the starting system as well with an isolator, etc?

As good as we are, this will help if we need to recommend that you visit our friends over at CruisersForum Batteries/Electrical/Solar subforum for more exacting marine requirements.

[boatmaster]

All right guys, I get it. Thanks so much for your advise.

That leaves me with the following setup and the question which controller to buy:

2 Panels 100W each, 17.7-21.7V, 5.7-6.1A
120Ah AGM battery (hopefully not too damaged by the junk cc)
All in a marine environment with temps up to 40˚c in the cabin.

Recommendations are welcome, since I obviously don't fully understand how these CCs work.
Also I have left all of them at factory settings, which were usually:
Battery Float Voltage 13.8V
Discharge Stop 10.6V
Discharge Resume 12.6V
So if I need to change that, please let me know.

Thanks again, I really want to fix this for good.

[Sunking]

No inductor and no big caps, you bought a label.

Ditto you bought chi-com junk.