2000k system only puts out 500 watt why?

[Naptown]

There are only two things you can test in the field without a lot of very expensive test equipment.
The first is open circuit voltage. test by disconnecting the panel from everything and test voltage under no load.
The second is to disconnect a panel and short the panel by connecting the + to- and reading the current with a clamp on amp meter.
Both are a bit tricky as the voltage will drop with higher cell temperatures and the amps will drop with insolation( how bright is the sun and at what angle is it to the panel) and the cell temperature.
The factors are both listed in the panel specs on the data sheet.
At minimum yu need a clamp on volt / amp meter and a pyronometer to verify insolation.

[LETitROLL]

Now when I seen the retailer test the panels the directly probed the mc4 connector from the panel for voltage and then they connected positive + and negative - together and used a clamp type meter to test for current.

Now I don't really know a whole lot about solar just what I have picked up from other but I would think going positive to negative would cause power to build up in the panel and would not give a real reading of the panel under load.

P.s please feel free to correct me this is a learning experience for me.

Hooking the + to the - on the panel is a direct short circuit and that is how you test the short circuit current of a single panel (it wont harm the panel unlike a lot of other power sources). And you just check voltage with your meter lead + to panel + and - to panel - (sounds like retailer did it correctly) if you don't have a clamp on amp meter and your multimeter has 10A or higher dc amp setting you can use that by placing it inline in the short circuit (make sure to have meter set correctly or you can fry it)

[charles2,david000k]

There are only two things you can test in the field without a lot of very expensive test equipment.
The first is open circuit voltage. test by disconnecting the panel from everything and test voltage under no load.
The second is to disconnect a panel and short the panel by connecting the + to- and reading the current with a clamp on amp meter.
Both are a bit tricky as the voltage will drop with higher cell temperatures and the amps will drop with insolation( how bright is the sun and at what angle is it to the panel) and the cell temperature.
The factors are both listed in the panel specs on the data sheet.
At minimum yu need a clamp on volt / amp meter and a pyronometer to verify insolation.

Can't do a pyronometer I just check real fast and it was $600 + used. I was thinking of a new meter though I am starting to think there might be something wrong with my Fluke probe meter I have now but don't know of any way to test the meter itself? It is old!! It was given to me by my dad but that man can break anything never knew anyone else that could roll a riding mower on flat ground I don't know how he does it but he can roll anything with wheels if you leave him alone.

[Sunking]

Solinoid? That is even worse than PWM

Nothing is wrong with your system, you just do not know how it works.

[Sunking]

Doesn't float require less current?

No sir. Float can draw full power aka full current.

[Sunking]

How would you correctly test a single panel while pulling power from it? .

You don't. You have to use VOC and Imp test.

[charles2,david000k]

Solinoid? That is even worse than PWM

Nothing is wrong with your system, you just do not know how it works.

I just don't understand why when we got done setting up we pulled 38 volts and 64 amps from the combiner box with the rest of the system disconnected and no one touched the system until after it had it's drop to 34 volts and 17 amps. I did the same test the same way unless there is some thing wrong with the panels or my meter. ok some new findings may be I pulled my meter apart and found three fuses inside two inuse and one extra fuse. Now I don't know if this is the correct way of doing this but I took my little back up meter and turned it to ohms and stuck the +- probes to the different side of the fuses after pulling them out and got nothing off the two that was in use but the back up fuse got a reading does this mean these fuses are blown and is why I am getting a bad reading?


brb going to google the fuse

[charles2,david000k]

I just don't understand why when we got done setting up we pulled 38 volts and 64 amps from the combiner box with the rest of the system disconnected and no one touched the system until after it had it's drop to 34 volts and 17 amps. I did the same test the same way unless there is some thing wrong with the panels or my meter. ok some new findings may be I pulled my meter apart and found three fuses inside two inuse and one extra fuse. Now I don't know if this is the correct way of doing this but I took my little back up meter and turned it to ohms and stuck the +- probes to the different side of the fuses after pulling them out and got nothing off the two that was in use but the back up fuse got a reading does this mean these fuses are blown and is why I am getting a bad reading?


brb going to google the fuse

I think I am going to replace the two fuses and put that meter away and get a clamp type meter. Then I will get back to you guys with the new reading I really hope it's the meter or the way I take the readings.

[sensij]

Batteries are good but I am open to ideals at this point! I went with a off grid system because we get snowed in and lose power for a month at a time in winter. This is why it is so important for me to get this system backup and running correctly.

If this is really so important to you, I think you should take this opportunity to step back and really evaluate the system you've put together.

You said your batteries are 70 Ah AGM, maybe something like these. 70 Ah * 24 V * 50% DOD = 840 Wh of energy available. Yet, you are using a 6000 W inverter? That 70 Ah rating is a 20 hr discharge rating... 70 Ah/20 h = 3.5A * 24 V = 84 W. Discharging at even 1000 W continuously is way more than these batteries can handle.

What loads do you need to power in winter? How much energy per day? The performance problems you've been assigning to the panels could easily be a result of a battery that has been worn out.

[Wy_White_Wolf]

For those that missed it, This is a dumpload controller. When battery voltage is 28.8V it dumps everything from the wind genny and solar panels to a dumpload (heating element.

If the panels are only putting out 5 amps to the dumpload then you need to check and make sure one of your heating elements isn't burnt out.

WWW

[Wy_White_Wolf]

Solinoid? That is even worse than PWM

Nothing is wrong with your system, you just do not know how it works.

Most likely he doesn't know what he has. It appears to be a shunt controller that activates a solenoid as a dumpload controller when it hit's 28.8V. His diagram shows a CC with a solenoid directly above it.

WWW

[lkruper]

No sir. Float can draw full power aka full current.

I was thinking of the third stage of three-stage charging after bulk and absorb. Once it gets to that point, don't the amps just replace what is being lost? Are you referring the amperage at float voltage for a discharged battery?

[jflorey2]

Most likely he doesn't know what he has. It appears to be a shunt controller that activates a solenoid as a dumpload controller when it hit's 28.8V. His diagram shows a CC with a solenoid directly above it.

I think you're right. The "solenoid" is a relay that connects the dump loads to the battery when voltage rises above X as measured by the charge controller. The relay has to be connected to the CC by wiring not shown on the diagram.

[Raul]

I just don't understand why when we got done setting up we pulled 38 volts and 64 amps from the combiner box with the rest of the system disconnected and no one touched the system until after it had it's drop to 34 volts and 17 amps. I did the same test the same way unless there is some thing wrong with the panels or my meter. ok some new findings may be I pulled my meter apart and found three fuses inside two inuse and one extra fuse. Now I don't know if this is the correct way of doing this but I took my little back up meter and turned it to ohms and stuck the +- probes to the different side of the fuses after pulling them out and got nothing off the two that was in use but the back up fuse got a reading does this mean these fuses are blown and is why I am getting a bad reading?


brb going to google the fuse

How did you measured the 60+ A ? What device did you used and how ?

[charles2,david000k]

If this is really so important to you, I think you should take this opportunity to step back and really evaluate the system you've put together.

You said your batteries are 70 Ah AGM, maybe something like these. 70 Ah * 24 V * 50% DOD = 840 Wh of energy available. Yet, you are using a 6000 W inverter? That 70 Ah rating is a 20 hr discharge rating... 70 Ah/20 h = 3.5A * 24 V = 84 W. Discharging at even 1000 W continuously is way more than these batteries can handle.

What loads do you need to power in winter? How much energy per day? The performance problems you've been assigning to the panels could easily be a result of a battery that has been worn out.

They look the same but mine are glass mat AGM I know lead acid batteries. The inverter is an AIMS Global LF Series Pure Sine Wave Inverter/ Chargers 6,000watts with a 18w for motor start ups. inverter tag.jpginverter tag.jpg

http://www.aimscorp.net/documents/PICOGLF60W24V240VS.pdf

The first set of batteries did infact burn out but what I have now are the new batteries. I suspect the first set burnt out due to the charge controller that came with the set it got stuck in the on position and would not switch to dump mode and battery voltage got as high as 38 volts. It also caused the 250 amp inline fuse to blow out 4 times. When the system went down it started by cooking the batteries and charge controller the charge controler got stuck on or there was to much of a load for it to read as full and kept the panel connected causing the inverter to pull from the panels through the batteries. The Audiopipe ANL fuses are only rated for 250 amps at 32 Volts.

The system suport a few thing.

7 Lights 13 watt each. Phones ? Refrigerator. I was thinking of a old broken one with a padlock for a bear proof box so we can leave stuff outside in winter. we have black bears! An they do not hibernate in winter just nap until it warms up a little. DVR for security cameras ? Fans for moving heat off of a wood burning stove which we cook on also when power is out. Water pump. Two different kind depending on the weather one primary jet pump and the other a very small sump pump. We collect rainwater and have a small 5 foot deep well. The sump pump pulls water from the well and feeds it to 4 ICB totes that hold roughly 350 gallon each with a total holding capacity 1,400 gallons. and a small space heater for defrosting ricks of wood when we bring them in after a ice storm.