I don't know what the wiring to the second inverter is but I assume its 10 gauge. I guess it just seems easier to me to just replace both inverters with 24volt inverters because then I don't need an AC disconnect, AC breaker box and AC outlet all wired up by me. Let's say its a 20 ft distance, maybe 40 ft was too much. Its worked for 15 years but was a bit under-powered.
Both inverters I think are cheap 12volt inverters from Fries. If I look for inverters with less watts as proposed earlier then I think I can just replace both with 24volt.
Here is an example, http://www.powerbright.com/aps600.html
The manual for this seems more complete and the outlets have GFCI (although it $140 more), http://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-SW.../dp/B00153EYXA
Based on the Go-Power-GP-SW600-24-600-Watt-Inverter manual it seems that I will be okay with grounding all boxes, including the inverter to the negative DC line. How do you guys feel about that? Seems that the bonding occurs in the AC side of the inverter but not the DC side so I still need to bond the DC negative to ground and a loop will not be created. Does that sound correct?
EXCERPT FROM MANUAL FOLLOWS
Grounding.
Caution: The negative DC input of the power inverter is connected to the chassis. Do not install the power inverter in a positive ground DC system. A positive ground DC system has the positive terminal of the battery connected to the chassis of the vehicle or to the grounding point
Warning: Do not operate the power inverter without connecting it to ground. Electrical shock hazard may result.
The power inverter has a lug on the rear panel [chassis ground]. This is to connect the chassis of the power inverter to ground. The ground terminals in the AC outlets on the front panel of the inverter are also connected to the ground lug.
The chassis ground lug must be connected to a grounding point, which will vary depending on where the power inverter is installed. In a vehicle, connect the chassis ground to the chassis of the vehicle. In a boat, connect to the boat's grounding systems. In a fixed location, connect the chassis ground lug to earth.
The neutral (common) conductor of the inverter AC output circuit is connected (bonded) to the chassis ground inside the inverter. Therefore, when the chassis is connected to ground, the neutral conductor will also be grounded. This conforms to national electrical code requirements that states that separately derived AC sources (such as inverters and generators) have their neutral tied to ground in the same way that the neutral conductor from the utility line is tied to ground at the AC breaker panel.
Note: If the inverter is supplying power to equipment or a panel where the neutral and ground are connected (bonded), a ground loop will occur. If a ground loop occurs, the GFCI outlet will trip and output power from the inverter will be cut off. If your GFCI repeatedly needs to be reset, this would indicate a ground loop somewhere in your system. In this case, please have a qualified person inspect your electrical system or equipment.
Both inverters I think are cheap 12volt inverters from Fries. If I look for inverters with less watts as proposed earlier then I think I can just replace both with 24volt.
Here is an example, http://www.powerbright.com/aps600.html
The manual for this seems more complete and the outlets have GFCI (although it $140 more), http://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-SW.../dp/B00153EYXA
Based on the Go-Power-GP-SW600-24-600-Watt-Inverter manual it seems that I will be okay with grounding all boxes, including the inverter to the negative DC line. How do you guys feel about that? Seems that the bonding occurs in the AC side of the inverter but not the DC side so I still need to bond the DC negative to ground and a loop will not be created. Does that sound correct?
EXCERPT FROM MANUAL FOLLOWS
Grounding.
Caution: The negative DC input of the power inverter is connected to the chassis. Do not install the power inverter in a positive ground DC system. A positive ground DC system has the positive terminal of the battery connected to the chassis of the vehicle or to the grounding point
Warning: Do not operate the power inverter without connecting it to ground. Electrical shock hazard may result.
The power inverter has a lug on the rear panel [chassis ground]. This is to connect the chassis of the power inverter to ground. The ground terminals in the AC outlets on the front panel of the inverter are also connected to the ground lug.
The chassis ground lug must be connected to a grounding point, which will vary depending on where the power inverter is installed. In a vehicle, connect the chassis ground to the chassis of the vehicle. In a boat, connect to the boat's grounding systems. In a fixed location, connect the chassis ground lug to earth.
The neutral (common) conductor of the inverter AC output circuit is connected (bonded) to the chassis ground inside the inverter. Therefore, when the chassis is connected to ground, the neutral conductor will also be grounded. This conforms to national electrical code requirements that states that separately derived AC sources (such as inverters and generators) have their neutral tied to ground in the same way that the neutral conductor from the utility line is tied to ground at the AC breaker panel.
Note: If the inverter is supplying power to equipment or a panel where the neutral and ground are connected (bonded), a ground loop will occur. If a ground loop occurs, the GFCI outlet will trip and output power from the inverter will be cut off. If your GFCI repeatedly needs to be reset, this would indicate a ground loop somewhere in your system. In this case, please have a qualified person inspect your electrical system or equipment.
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