OCP amps on charge controller

[6 Actual]

Hi everyone,

Well, I'm a real beginner at this and can use some advice. I've just set up a 160 watt off-grid system. Its purpose is to occasionally power lights (fluorescent fixtures, with 2x tubes at 40 watts) for short periods of time. I'm seeing what I think are weird results and want to ask for advice on this.

Here's what I'm using:
2x 80 watt panels
Morningstar PS-15M charge controller
2x AGM Battery (MK 8A31DT) wired in parallel
Xantrex 1500 watt, 12 volt, 120Vac, 60 Hz, modified sine wave inverter

Here's what's happening:
I want to run 3 of these fluorescent fixtures. When I turn all 3 on, the charge controller shows the charge controller load amps jumps up to 27 and the thing shuts off with an overcharge protection (OCP) fault. These light fixtures shouldn't be pulling almost 30 amps right? Does anyone know?

Also, sometimes when I get an OCP fault on the charge controller, I can't get the inverter to restart because the charge controller is stuck in OCP fault mode.

Any ideas? Thanks for any advice you may have.

[Mike90250]

You can't connect an inverter to the LOAD terminals on the charge controller, it draws more power than the small charge controller can controll. Says so in the manual, max load is __x__ amps. A mod-sine inverter may not be the best choice to power fluorescent fixtures. If they have iron core ballast, they may behave poorly with the mod-sine wave. See if you can borrow a pure sine inverter.
Not everything works well on mod-sine.

[6 Actual]

Mike, Thanks for the response.

But what I don't understand then, is what's the purpose of the load part of the charge controler for? If I'm not supposed to use that, can I just run the batteries straight to the inverter?

The Morningstar controller has wire block for connections from the panels, from the controller to the batteries, and to the load part, which I assume would be to directly power DC devices or run through an inverter to power AC devices. Is this not right?

Yes, the ballast in the fluorescent fixtures are probably part of the problem. They were installed in 1990-1991. I bet they're old, magenetic T12 ballast that's been replaced by the newer kinds (electronic T12 and T8). Was considering replacing the old with all T8 ballast/bulbs.

Would appreciate any additional advice you may have. Feel free to administer the dope slap for my rigged up system.

[Mike90250]

Most inverters have a low battery cut-off internally - (they cut off when battery is 90% discharged) but, say for a 140W ac load, your running current into the inverter from the battery will be about 15 amps ( @ 12V, including inverter losses.) The little relay or what ever control they have in the charge controller, is not designed for that much load, and it will cook something. The LOAD terminals are for small lights that could be left on, and bleed the battery to 0,. so the load terminal will disconnect the small loads.
Adding magnetic devices (motors, ballasts, transformers) to a mod-sine will make it do all sorts of crazy things, and possibly shut down.

[6 Actual]

Mike,

Sorry for the delay. You're 100% right. I reconfigured my setup and checked with some on-line tutorials, and everything is working perfectly now. Getting great results. Sure appreciate the input.

[kennyhendrick]

ocp Problem?

Hi all,

I have a morningstar ps-15 charge controller and a 1600watt inverter (800w nominal) and every now and then I get this ocp error on the charge controller. I'm running just a few 12v lights off of the load and the inverter goes direct to the battery bank.

Should I be concerned when I get this ocp flashing on the charge controller?

I have one 100w panel, 2-80w panels, 2-90w panels to the charge controller.

Do I have too many batteries, too many panels, not a large enough charge controller, a bad hair day, what?

[Mike90250]

What does OCP stand for, for those of us without your manual.

[kennyhendrick]

LOL....what manual?

What does OCP stand for, for those of us without your manual.

Although the unit was purchased new it either wasn't much of a manual or was promptly deposited in the trash upon cursory glance.

I don't know what ocp stands for....it just does it a half dozen times a day. I just assumed it was something like overcharge protection which prompted me to look closer at the number of panels. Right now I have 5panels totalling 440w but in a couple of days will have 3 new panels in so the total watts will be somewhere around 690w. This new math is really killing me here....I don't know what my next goal should be....new inverter, 6new 215ah 6v batteries to add to existing same, a new charge controller....man could this **** get any more complicated?

And to make things worse, there's 4 other panels up there (thin film) and apparently the juice from those melted the wires (gotta pull those down before the house burns....maybe next week).

I sure wish that I started this solar thing when I was 18 or something (my mind was more intact I think...getting old sucks).

But it's offgrid or bust this year. I might have to rough it on the water pump, refrigerator, stove, air conditioner aaaaarrrrrggggghhhhhhh you f(^&%^$% kidding me!!??

[Mike90250]

PS-15M = Prostar 15A m=meter on 48V model ??? MANUAL

p6 5.3 OCP = overcurrent solar or load

So I'll have to leave it to you to read the manual, and figure out where to go from here.

Mike

[kennyhendrick]

Doh!

Thanks Mike,

Apparently I listed my model with an "m" at the end and there's not one, but the link you listed covers my model also.

Thanks again for your time...it looks like I have too many watts on the input side (tried turning off the load side so there's no way to blame the current being drawn)....

I guess it's off to the endless solar pit....bigger this and that and hope it doesn't get struck by lightening or a hurricane before I get my money out of the savings, huh?

hmmmm....I wonder how much a bloombox will cost "

[Mike90250]

Well, you have a 15 A controller, and

I have one 100w panel, 2-80w panels, 2-90w panels to the charge controller.

( 440 watts of panels )

Assume 80% output from each panel, and that gives you 352w @ 14V = 25A.
First step is to aim some panels east, and some west. That will prevent the panels from reaching their peak power at the same time (noon, south) Assume they are all roughly the same voltage (17-20V spec) and there will be no problems, and you may actually have a larger harvest of power.

[kennyhendrick]

Just out of curiosity...

Thanks for the advice but my skinny bum hardly goes out (it's easier to reach up on the wall and rip down the old charge controller...I think I'm ready for the something like a 60-80 and double the battery bank size but will probably do exactly as you described when the new panels come in this week which is what I'll put the 15a morningstar to).

What's your present solar state?

Also, what would you be able to offer as your best advice from all the years you've accrued via your solar learning experiences?

[Mike90250]

Thanks for the advice but my skinny bum hardly goes out (it's easier to reach up on the wall and rip down the old charge controller...I think I'm ready for the something like a 60-80 and double the battery bank size but will probably do exactly as you described when the new panels come in this week which is what I'll put the 15a morningstar to).

1] What's your present solar state?

2] Also, what would you be able to offer as your best advice from all the years you've accrued via your solar learning experiences?

1] Nighttime, nearly full moon
2] Come up with an idea, and float it on the forum, and see what the advice is from a non salesman.

[kennyhendrick]

Sorry

I just spent more than 15 minutes and figured out that those links on your replies are your actual pages.

I will read more of those links (because I think I need to) and something popped up on the first sublink I pressed. It was your words "...become involved in the solar community. For as long as is feasable."

Okay I was hoping for the magic rabbit but anyway you also stated that we are encouraged to post our ideas.

You asked for it.

Now don't laugh because I'm seriously thinking this could work:

I notice that when my panels arrive that even though it's nighttime and there's only a fluorescent light on in my office, that there's available current coming out of the panels! At nighttime. Even when it's only artificial light.

Now aside from my constant wondering as to where the hell all the "unused" electricity bleeds off to when the charge controller goes into ocp mode (too much input wattage), it's occurred to me that maybe if our new home had walls and floor and ceiling and maybe an extra stip running on either side of the length of my fluorescent lights....ad infinitum and nauseaum....

We'd have renewable energy.


Could this be true?

[Mike90250]

I notice that when my panels arrive that even though it's nighttime and there's only a fluorescent light on in my office, that there's available current coming out of the panels! At nighttime. Even when it's only artificial light.

PV panels will begin to generate voltage as soon as photons hit them. This can easily be measured with a meter.

PV panels are "current" (amps) sources though, not voltage sources. (it's a electronics thing, need a few courses to explain it) If you connect an amp meter to your indoor panel, and a volt meter, you will see 2 things happen.
a) the load of the amp meter will lower the panel to 0 Volts
b) the amps measured will be very tiny.

Sanyo makes electronic calculators with a little solar cell that will work in candle light, but you can't do much else with it.