Rule of thumb for panel sizing

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  • prodata
    Junior Member
    • Aug 2014
    • 2

    #1

    Rule of thumb for panel sizing

    OK, this is a question about sizing a solar PSU designed to supply 12v only and to provide guaranteed (@ eg a 98% level) power YEAR-ROUND for a location at 55N (UK, so winter light levels can be low for some days at a time and it's the winter conditions that will be important for sizing). This is for an instrumental PSU and so the power required is actually tiny - let's say 0.2A draw at 12v DC.

    What I'm after is an informed guess at a factor to multiply the current draw required so as to size the panel (which will be fixed and south-facing and at whatever angle gives the optimum winter power). I'm thinking that a starting point would be to size a 12v lead-acid battery in Ah at about the same as the panel wattage (no formulaic reason for doing so, it just feels about right).

    I'm also thinking that a factor of about 50 might be about right (ie 100W panel, 100Ah battery), but would appreciate comments.
  • Sunking
    Solar Fanatic
    • Feb 2010
    • 23301

    #2
    This has been discussed thousands of time and why there is a Stickie that answers all your questions.
    MSEE, PE

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    • Mike90250
      Moderator
      • May 2009
      • 16020

      #3
      Without direct sun, most PV panels just don't produce much power.

      200mA @ 12V is 2.4w x 24 hrs = 60 watts daily. (always round up)

      5 days no sun = 300 watts consumed.

      An "average" 50ah AGM battery (not gel) holds 600wh of power, half of which is useable. So far, so good, low loads, low loss AGM battery. After 7 days, you will be really hurting the battery, but the sun comes out for at least 3 hours, 1 x a week.
      Sooooo in that three hours you have to harvest enough power to recharge and overcome any losses.
      Panels produce 80% of their nameplate power. You have to replace 420wh in 3 h which would need about 170w of panels.
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

      Comment

      • ZoNiE
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jul 2014
        • 129

        #4
        That is probably one of the best summaries I have come across.

        Sucks to be in Seattle, I suppose.

        Originally posted by Sunking
        This has been discussed thousands of time and why there is a Stickie that answers all your questions.
        House-Sun Earth Hot Water.
        RV-390W Kyocera, Kid.

        Comment

        • prodata
          Junior Member
          • Aug 2014
          • 2

          #5
          Many thanks for the replies - need to digest and then maybe comment further.

          Comment

          • PNjunction
            Solar Fanatic
            • Jul 2012
            • 2179

            #6
            Originally posted by ZoNiE
            Sucks to be in Seattle, I suppose.
            It can be done in areas with low or intermittent solar insolation. All it means is that you'll be paying more for relatively larger solar arrays, and higher capability batteries than flooded, like certain low internal resistance agm's which can handle being hammered by a large solar array when there IS sun. Lifepo4 is also an alternative for advanced setups which don't care about deficit-charge or psoc styles of operations - but mistakes here will be costly for sure.

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