Problem with my CMP12 charge controller. No output voltage [images]

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  • vitallica
    Junior Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 11

    #16
    Originally posted by SunEagle
    Ok. A 300 watt load at 12 volts will draw 25 amps. So the fuses and wire need to be rated at 25 amps. You could go with a smaller fuse to limit what the inverter is using but then you may have to replace the fuses that fail if you draw more.
    Thank you for your time,

    Do i have to buy glass fuses 25 amps specifically for 24 volts or can i buy for a voltage of 250 volts?

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    • vitallica
      Junior Member
      • Nov 2013
      • 11

      #17
      Originally posted by Wy_White_Wolf
      150W / 12V = 12.5 amps

      300W / 12V = 25 amps

      Your Charge controller is only rated 12 amps. As I stated earlier most likely you've pulled to much current thru the load circuit of the charge controller and damaged it. Time to replace it again and this time hook the inverter directly to the battery bank or get a LV disconnect rated high enough to hanle the load.

      WWW
      Thank you for your time,

      I will check tomorrow if there are broken fuses in the invertor.

      Comment

      • inetdog
        Super Moderator
        • May 2012
        • 9909

        #18
        Originally posted by vitallica
        Thank you for your time,

        Do i have to buy glass fuses 25 amps specifically for 24 volts or can i buy for a voltage of 250 volts?
        You need fuses which are rated for DC. The 250 volt is an AC rating, since AC is easier to interrupt. A higher DC voltage rating than 24 volts would be fine. 48 volts is another common DC rating.
        Some automotive and other glass fuses may be able to handle 24 volt DC, but check the specifications. The fuse holder itself needs to be rated for 24V DC also.
        A different type/style of fuse and holder may work better for you in the long run.
        SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

        Comment

        • ircsmith
          Junior Member
          • Dec 2013
          • 1

          #19
          Originally posted by Wy_White_Wolf
          150W / 12V = 12.5 amps

          300W / 12V = 25 amps

          Your Charge controller is only rated 12 amps. As I stated earlier most likely you've pulled to much current thru the load circuit of the charge controller and damaged it. Time to replace it again and this time hook the inverter directly to the battery bank or get a LV disconnect rated high enough to hanle the load.

          WWW
          I registered to the site so I could say thanks to everyone for the help. looks like I was making the same mistakes! the diagram helps a bunch. I too am just starting down this path with future plans for the mountain property so I started small at home to make mistakes less costly. looks I'll be getting my second CMP12 today!

          cheers

          Comment

          • PNjunction
            Solar Fanatic
            • Jul 2012
            • 2179

            #20
            Before spending another dime, are you even sure that little homebrew panel is large enough to actually charge that battery bank to any significant degree? And what is your solar-insolation period for where you live? Solar insolation is not just sunrise-to-sunset and one should find a chart for where they live.

            So, what are the rated specs for that solar panel in voltage and current when not connected to load?

            What are the rated voltage and capacity values for each of those orange batteries? The appear to be sealed, and are they either gel or agm? There is a big difference between the two when it comes to charging. (agm preferred, lose the gel's.)

            From the looks of it, and with all the testing, I see the pretty common mistake of too small a panel attached to too large of a battery, along with a possible short solar-insolation period. I've got a feeling that battery bank is hurting / sulfated.

            Work those issues out before spending another cent.

            Comment

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