Earth Grounding Questions (and many more) for a small off-grid system.

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  • CanadianCabinSolar
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2013
    • 22

    #1

    Earth Grounding Questions (and many more) for a small off-grid system.

    Hello,

    My main question is about the earth grounding for my small off-grid 12V system. But I will, if I may, describe my setup in some detail and ask for any advice that you can give this noob.

    Please tell me about anything that seems unsafe, stupid or just won't work!

    Thanks in advance.

    This off grid system will be near Sturgeon Falls, Ontario, Canada and will be only be used from late May to late October.

    1 Kyocera 140 Watt Solar Panel ( Model # KD140GX-LPU ) which will be facing true south at 35 degrees, grounded with #8 bare copper wire to a ground rod driven next to the

    cabin and connected with MC4 connectors to

    1 Morningstar ProStar 30 Charge Controller ( Model # B002MQWXB4 ) which will be connected to

    2 12V Eliminator Renewable Energy 100 AH Deep Cycle, sealed AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) lead acid batteries ( Canadian Tire Model # 11-1879-8 ) connected in parallel which will be

    connected to :

    (1) An Eliminator 1750 Watt Mobile Power Inverter (Canadian Tire Model # 11-1845-8 ) which will be used to power a 19 inch LED TV and I-omega Media Player or home stereo for 3 - 4

    hours on most days.

    (2) A Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block ( Model # B001P6FTHC ) - will be connected with # 8 wire to the batteries negative and positive and will have a IMC 100 AMP fuse on

    the positive line.

    The Blade Fuse Block will have a separate #8 bare copper wire connected between the ground rod and negative bus. Are these 2 ground wires all that my system requires? Or do I need

    to run another # 8 bare copper wire to the negative connection on the inverter?

    The Blade Fuse Block will power 9 separate circuits:

    6 are for RV 12 Volt lights with LED replacements for all the bulbs - 5 double fixtures with 921 bulbs and 1 single fixture with an 1156 bulb. - all 3 AMP Fuses

    1 is for a SHURflo ( Model # 2088-422-444 ) 12 Volt 7.0 Amp Water Pump to feed a propane heated shower with rain water. - 7.5 Amp Fuse

    1 is for a permanent mount USB Dual Port Charger. - 3 AMP Fuse

    1 is for a permanent mount Cigarette Lighter Socket. - 3 AMP Fuse

    So there it is, my wee solar system. Please help me out with any tips you can give me and feel free to question me about any info I omitted.

    Thanks Again

    Doug
  • CanadianCabinSolar
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2013
    • 22

    #2
    And the inverter will be connected to the battery with battery cables. # 4 ( I think),

    Comment

    • Sunking
      Solar Fanatic
      • Feb 2010
      • 23301

      #3
      For now all I am going to say is for a 12 volt system, it is not required to ground the system. The panel by code needs to be earthed, but not the system.
      MSEE, PE

      Comment

      • CanadianCabinSolar
        Junior Member
        • Mar 2013
        • 22

        #4
        Originally posted by Sunking
        For now all I am going to say is for a 12 volt system, it is not required to ground the system. The panel by code needs to be earthed, but not the system.
        Thanks for the reply Sunking. If that's all you are going to say for now, are you going to say more later?
        At www.backwoodshome.com, Jeffrey Yago, P.E., CEM discusses a small 12Volt system like mine and states " You also need to add a separate bare-copper wire from this same ground rod to the grounding bus bar inside the main circuit breaker panel."
        I also read something somewhere about the fuses in a DC system not functioning correctly without an earth ground. Not correct?

        Comment

        • Naptown
          Solar Fanatic
          • Feb 2011
          • 6880

          #5
          Are you using a circuit breaker panel for multiple circuits?
          NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

          [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

          [URL]http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html[/URL] (Voltage drop Calculator among others)

          [URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]

          Comment

          • Sunking
            Solar Fanatic
            • Feb 2010
            • 23301

            #6
            Originally posted by CanadianCabinSolar
            Thanks for the reply Sunking. If that's all you are going to say for now, are you going to say more later?
            At www.backwoodshome.com, Jeffrey Yago, P.E., CEM discusses a small 12Volt system like mine and states " You also need to add a separate bare-copper wire from this same ground rod to the grounding bus bar inside the main circuit breaker panel."
            I also read something somewhere about the fuses in a DC system not functioning correctly without an earth ground. Not correct?
            I know Jeff and he knows his stuff. Did not see a link to the story you are talking about, but I know what he is trying to say and not say. In order for a fuse to operate there has to be a planned return path. If you only want to use one protection device on one of th epolarities, th eother polarity has to be referenced to something. That something in your case is earth, but earth has noting to do with it. It is the path for the fault current to return on. The other way is to float the system and use protection devices on both polarities along with ground fault detection.
            MSEE, PE

            Comment

            • CanadianCabinSolar
              Junior Member
              • Mar 2013
              • 22

              #7
              Originally posted by Sunking
              I know Jeff and he knows his stuff. Did not see a link to the story you are talking about, but I know what he is trying to say and not say. In order for a fuse to operate there has to be a planned return path. If you only want to use one protection device on one of th epolarities, th eother polarity has to be referenced to something. That something in your case is earth, but earth has noting to do with it. It is the path for the fault current to return on. The other way is to float the system and use protection devices on both polarities along with ground fault detection.
              Sorry. Here's the link www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/yago116.html

              So... Sunking. With a system like mine (described in my first post), if I just ground the panel, the fuse system will work? A bare copper wire connected between the negative bus on my fuse block and a ground rod (which I have to drive anyway, over the Canadian Shield, no less) will not make the system safer?
              I appreciate your help.

              Comment

              • CanadianCabinSolar
                Junior Member
                • Mar 2013
                • 22

                #8
                Originally posted by Naptown
                Are you using a circuit breaker panel for multiple circuits?
                I am using a marine fuse block



                as a DC panel. See my original post for a description of the circuits.

                Comment

                • CanadianCabinSolar
                  Junior Member
                  • Mar 2013
                  • 22

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Sunking
                  The other way is to float the system and use protection devices on both polarities along with ground fault detection.
                  Please explain how to do it this way. With lots of small words please.

                  Comment

                  • Naptown
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 6880

                    #10
                    put fuses on the + and - of the battery
                    Those are the littlest words I could find
                    NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

                    [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

                    [URL]http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html[/URL] (Voltage drop Calculator among others)

                    [URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]

                    Comment

                    • Sunking
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Feb 2010
                      • 23301

                      #11
                      Originally posted by CanadianCabinSolar
                      Sorry. Here's the link www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/yago116.html

                      So... Sunking. With a system like mine (described in my first post), if I just ground the panel, the fuse system will work? A bare copper wire connected between the negative bus on my fuse block and a ground rod (which I have to drive anyway, over the Canadian Shield, no less) will not make the system safer?
                      Well I feel vindicated now that you posted the link for all top see. If you read the article you should have picked up Jeff was reluctant to do this and only did so from pressure from the editors. So hopefully now you understand my reluctance.

                      What Jeff is telling you is correct. You will use the same ground rod that bonds the panel frames to earth, to run a #6AWG or #8 AWG to the Breaker panel negative ground buss. From that buss in the breaker panel you use to bond to the inverter and CC ground terminal.

                      One added note here. YOu can use two or more ground rods. Say one directly below the panels, and another near the equipment. However if you do this you MUST BOND THE TWO RODS TOGETHER with a # 6 awg BARE CONDUCTOR BURIED IN THE GROUND. It is very important you clearly understand that point. Failure to do so puts you at great risk of burning your house down. So do not take it lightly OK. This is why Jeff and I hesitate to tell DIY's how to do physical installs. They simply do not understand how to , or why. Pros do understand and know how to. Well most of them do anyway.
                      MSEE, PE

                      Comment

                      • Sunking
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Feb 2010
                        • 23301

                        #12
                        Originally posted by CanadianCabinSolar
                        That is a good start, but does not protect the most important part of the system; the battery. This is why I do not like going into this detail. You do not even know the questions to ask, and I cannot read your mind or supervise. Please do not be offended, just pointing out the facts.

                        You are also going to need a Battery fuse block installed right on the battery terminal post. Blue Sea makes a really good dual unit you will need. One terminal will connect to the CC, and the other to your distribution panel you linked to. Give me a second and I will see what size MRBF fuses to use.
                        MSEE, PE

                        Comment

                        • CanadianCabinSolar
                          Junior Member
                          • Mar 2013
                          • 22

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Sunking
                          That is a good start, but does not protect the most important part of the system; the battery. This is why I do not like going into this detail. You do not even know the questions to ask, and I cannot read your mind or supervise. Please do not be offended, just pointing out the facts.

                          You are also going to need a Battery fuse block installed right on the battery terminal post. Blue Sea makes a really good dual unit you will need. One terminal will connect to the CC, and the other to your distribution panel you linked to. Give me a second and I will see what size MRBF fuses to use.

                          Cheers and thanks for the help.

                          Comment

                          • Sunking
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 23301

                            #14
                            OK you owe me big time. Ask anyone here, I do not do this type of thing.

                            For the MRBF fuse to CC = 30 amp using # 8 AWG
                            For the MRBF to Fuse Panel = 200 Amp using no less than 2 AWG

                            You also have a problem with your wire gauge from Fuse Panel to Inverter Input. A 1750 watt 12 volt inverter will take 145 amps at full power. That will require #4 AWG. Personally I would not connect the inverter to the fuse block. I would connect both positive and negative directly to the battery post using a second single battery MRBF Battery fuse (150 amp) which is not shown in the drawing. I do not think you can find a 150 amp blade fuse for the fuse panel.

                            MSEE, PE

                            Comment

                            • FloridaSun
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Dec 2012
                              • 634

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Sunking
                              OK you owe me big time. Ask anyone here, I do not do this type of thing.

                              For the MRBF fuse to CC = 30 amp using # 8 AWG
                              For the MRBF to Fuse Panel = 200 Amp using no less than 2 AWG

                              You also have a problem with your wire gauge from Fuse Panel to Inverter Input. A 1750 watt 12 volt inverter will take 145 amps at full power. That will require #4 AWG. Personally I would not connect the inverter to the fuse block. I would connect both positive and negative directly to the battery post using a second single battery MRBF Battery fuse (150 amp) which is not shown in the drawing. I do not think you can find a 150 amp blade fuse for the fuse panel.


                              For sure that inverter would have to go directly to battery fuse. His fuse block is rated 100 amps max with 10-32 studs, each at 30a rating

                              Comment

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