How to properly do a battery capacity test?

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  • josepr
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2017
    • 18

    How to properly do a battery capacity test?

    Greetings,

    I tested 2 Golf cart batteries (230 AH). The batteries are 3 years old. Were used for 2 months during an emergency. On a solar system with an amp counter meter. Where never were exposed to DOD of 20% during that time. After the 2 months they were connected to a RV converter (13.4 VDC 20 amps max) 24/7. The converter is working fine (good brand). Regular maintenance was performed (distilled water and hydrometer checks). They test fine (voltage & hydrometer). After the 2 months were used 4 or 5 times to a DOD of no more than 30%.
    Because I’m currently learning about electronics, and would like to learn about power supplies, I bought a programmable DC load to test power supplies. I has a battery test function. Performed the test one a time. Disconnected the batteries from the RV converter and let them rest for 12 hours. Rest voltages were 6.481 & 6.471. Because I was expecting that the batteries were in a good condition, I performed a 5 hours tests on the first battery. The specs for the batteries for 5 hours are 174 amps. So, I calculated that the amps for the test should be (174/5) 34.8. Programed the DC load to stop the test at 5.25 (is a 6v battery, the equivalent of 10.5v in a 12v battery). The battery only provided 13.1591 ah. Only 7.5% of 174 ah.

    Because of that decided to perform a 20-hour test on the second. The battery is rated 230 ah at 20 hours. So, I calculated that the proper current should be (230/20) 11.5 amps. When the test ended the battery provided 50.7910 ah. That’s only 22% of 230 ah. I know that, because were I live, temps average 85F, the battery life would be cut to half. But was kinda surprised that the batteries tested that low.

    I first though that my mistake was ending at 5.25v (10.5 for 12v) under load. If I let the battery rest for a couple of minutes, I can get 1 or 2 additional ah before reaching 5.25 again. But discharging the battery to 5.25 open circuit voltage does not makes sense, because in real life inverters stop working around 5.25 (10.5@12, 21@24 & 42@48).
    If I performed the test correctly that means that these batteries are dead in only 3 years. Doing mostly nothing while kept charged and maintained (distilled water at proper level). Wow.
  • Mike90250
    Moderator
    • May 2009
    • 16020

    #2
    Batteries die of old age, regardless of usage. At least golf cart batteries are fairly inexpensive . and yes 2- 5 years is range of life.

    Loosing capacity, is often caused by sulphation, but you indicate the hydrometer tests them as fully strong acid.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment

    • chrisski
      Solar Fanatic
      • May 2020
      • 547

      #3
      Does the owners manual give anything about the charging algorithm for the RV converter?

      Some of the ones I looked at had add on chips to optimize whatever battery you were charging like a different chip for lead acid, AGM, and lithium.

      I also wonder if some of the higher rated RV converters were designed to run a lot of DC AMPS and not necessarily set for a 30 amp or 40 amp charging algorithm.

      I am getting ready to install an RV solar. After I do that, Because I went from 12 VDC 96AH batteries to 12 VDC 440 AH Batteries, I think I will need a different converter for when I am parked to shore power.

      Comment

      • Mike90250
        Moderator
        • May 2009
        • 16020

        #4
        I'd really encourage folks to not rely on RV "converters" as they are not ideal battery chargers.
        Good chargers generally have 3 basic charge stages as shown at Battery U (Solar comments in paren)

        1st Const Current or known as Bulk, where the PV gives its all to charge the battery (to about 80% capacity, little heat, little gassing in this stage)
        2nd Const Voltage, where the voltage is held as the battery Absorbs more charge, up to about 95% full (battery starts to heat, and gasses a lot toward the end)
        3rd Float. Voltage is dropped to a gentle, long term storage voltage, even a bit lower for batteries in standby service instead of cycle service. (no gassing, no heat)





        FLA_3stageCharge.jpg
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

        Comment

        • chrisski
          Solar Fanatic
          • May 2020
          • 547

          #5
          To replace the converter I have in my RV, I am thinking of getting an IOTA DLSX 45 Amp charger. There's some add on chips for about $25 each that are optimized for equalization, storage, different battery types, and then some.

          I'm finding Battery University pretty helpful as I go through it. One of the things I do though is when I find info different from what's in those sites, I get confused. For example finding the right C/10 charger for my battery by amperage and voltage and then finding that the one I got had a seven stage charge program, although the first two stages were measuring and testing the battery before the other five phases started. I get tied up sometimes on its got to look just like the graph.

          Comment

          • Mike90250
            Moderator
            • May 2009
            • 16020

            #6
            When you are constrained to the 4 or 5 hour solar recharge, you are able to use the "proper" charge sequence.

            And the only way to perform a proper capacity test, is at the 20 hour rate, because that's the only standard the mfg's use. Anything other than a brand new battery, is not going to meet the 20 hrs spec. You then have to parse out the warranty and see where your test falls on the age curve

            Maybe if the battery has a CCA spec on it, you can use that as a quick 60 sec passable/junk test.
            Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
            || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
            || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

            solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
            gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

            Comment

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