Here is my portable battery bank

[scheek]

Hope I get uploads right the first time.

Basically all I have is a dolly from Harbor freight ($39) that I converted to a portable battery bank system. I cut 2 x 4 boards and mounted to frame. it took (4). I bored holes in my boards for plus and minus poles. I added 2 x 4 sides to prevent any damage or shock to any one, basically encapsulating poles. The poles are aluminum and the size of a battery post. I bored a hole only 1/2 through the plywood floor so that poles could not go completely through. I placed a colored red and green cap on top of poles to indicate positive from negative and to prevent them from sliding out. I did have to cut a copper shim for each connector to make the connection tight to the pole. I was very easy to do.

I used quick release cable connectors ($5.99 ea) so I can remove and load the batteries easily, if I need to carry the battery-bank on a trip.

There is 1500 inverter mounted to top of the dolly also from Harbor freight and my controller is mounted on the back of the dolly.

I purchased two 6 foot #2 guage wires from HF and cut my own cables to make them up. They are all 15" long. I purchased battery boxes from Walmart. I also placed a plywood spacer between each battery so to let them vent-out the pre-made vents in the lids.

To me I wanted a way to carry and also have a safe setup for my batteries. Now I have my solar panels hooked to my battery-bank and running all my lights and such in my garage.

I hope this organizes and helps someone out there. Now let's get those pictures. Crap only got 5 pics. I will do in two more post.

[scheek]

Next set of Batterybank system pics

This is the second set of pictures.

[scheek]

last set of pics for Battery bank system

Good luck.

[longwolf]

Pretty cool

[Mike90250]

You may need to re-think your use of the aluminum poles, and use copper water pipe.

The reason aluminum fell into disfavor for house wires, was thermal expansion, but more important, it forms a very tough insulating layer of "aluminum oxide" in minutes, from exposure to air, and needs special goop and connectors to maintain good contact.

Tin the copper pipes at the connection areas, and use the clamp, and that should be pretty good.

And as Mr T. says - Pity the fool who bridges those giant buss bars !

[scheek]

Mike, I almost did that (copper pipe). Did not know about the aluminum oxide problem. I wonder if charging batteries would take that much longer through aluminum than copper. I would not be worried about minutes but hours since I would be using solar to charge. Since I was going for a solid rod, the aluminum was my best bet.

The cost was too much for copper rod and aluminum was 2nd in line and cheaper so I went that way. I will certainly watch the oxidation problem and switch to copper pipe when the problem shows up.

Just as a side note I am going to get an extra set of wheels to put on my dolly in the center of the axle. The weight is very much. Shuddling around the shop is easy but I may need to make a longer trip for some reason on uneven ground. The extra tires would help in that situation.

My thought was that if I go to (6) batteries all I have to do is use jumper cables to jump from cart to cart.

[windstar]

It looks nice as Mike says there are things to take in consideration. Better do it right from the begining.

[scheek]

Thermal expansion should not be a problem as in the house wiring situation years ago. The oxidation would, however. I'll watch it. I've got another use for the buss bars if necessary. Now I remembered the reason I did not use the copper pipe. Here at Ace Harware it comes in coils. They may have straight pipe in other stores but we live in a small town. I was looking for bars after that. Aluminum fit the budget, so I ordered it.
Hope I have success for a while.

[Mike90250]

You do not want a coil of copper tube, you want straight length of L grade copper pipe.
L or even K grade is the thicker, heavier wall (less electrical resistance) than type M.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_pipe#Pipe_vs._tube

"type 'M' (thin; typically only allowed as drain pipe by IPC code), type 'L' (thicker, standard duty for water lines and water service), and type 'K' (thickest, typically used underground between the main and the meter). "

[scheek]

Thanks. Mike.

I have a question I have just posted. Interested to see your input and answer.
Thanks

[marvbolo]

does the duracell 300 work as a battery bank?

[picko]

cool set up dude

[AJL]

Hope I get uploads right the first time.

Basically all I have is a dolly from Harbor freight ($39) that I converted to a portable battery bank system. I cut 2 x 4 boards and mounted to frame. it took (4). I bored holes in my boards for plus and minus poles. I added 2 x 4 sides to prevent any damage or shock to any one, basically encapsulating poles. The poles are aluminum and the size of a battery post. I bored a hole only 1/2 through the plywood floor so that poles could not go completely through. I placed a colored red and green cap on top of poles to indicate positive from negative and to prevent them from sliding out. I did have to cut a copper shim for each connector to make the connection tight to the pole. I was very easy to do.

I used quick release cable connectors ($5.99 ea) so I can remove and load the batteries easily, if I need to carry the battery-bank on a trip.

There is 1500 inverter mounted to top of the dolly also from Harbor freight and my controller is mounted on the back of the dolly.

I purchased two 6 foot #2 guage wires from HF and cut my own cables to make them up. They are all 15" long. I purchased battery boxes from Walmart. I also placed a plywood spacer between each battery so to let them vent-out the pre-made vents in the lids.

To me I wanted a way to carry and also have a safe setup for my batteries. Now I have my solar panels hooked to my battery-bank and running all my lights and such in my garage.

I hope this organizes and helps someone out there. Now let's get those pictures. Crap only got 5 pics. I will do in two more post.

Terrific idea Scheek. I see many uses and variations for this project. Many thanks for sharing the project and the tutorial.

[Perry]

Can't you solve the aluminum oxide problem by applying noalox to the the connections? I know I used it when hooking the aluminum service wire to my main electrical panel.

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-Anti-oxidant-Compound-Oz-Bottle/dp/B0019KHHRE[/URL]

[Mike90250]

Can't you solve the aluminum oxide problem by applying noalox to the the connections? I know I used it when hooking the aluminum service wire to my main electrical panel.

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-Anti-oxidant-Compound-Oz-Bottle/dp/B0019KHHRE[/URL]

Sure, apply the magic grease. Then clean and reapply every 6 months.

Aluminum service wire and pipe are 2 different alloys, and pipe is just not good. I've got thousands of feet of alum feeder wire underground, and know all about the no-ox