Not reaching Absorb or Float stage -- all of a sudden

[Mike90250]

1700w v 800w bad news if you have good sunshine.
Well, do you have a combiner box ? Can you check the breakers ? Sometimes, for unknown reasons, the carlington DC breakers in mine, one of the breakers sometimes pops, not always the same one. Or try a clamp-on meter at each string, or try switching off one string at a time and see which one has no effect. ( do NOT pull fuses on a sunlit panel, or you will be arc welding ! )

I'll repeat, do NOT pull fuses on a sunlit panel, or you will be arc welding ! Check them at Dusk or Dawn. replace the bad one when the light is dim, or you can arc weld the fuse into place, and then you will be stuck. Pull the bad fuse, and see if your installer has a replacement. GET 3 Replacements. If you cannot get to the installer, then a LARGE electrical supply house would/may carry them.

If you can read the label on the back of the panels, does it list a recommended fuse size ? (usually 10 or 15 amp) Make sure the replacement fuse has the correct rating, or it may blow again, sometimes installers insert whatever fuse they have, and drive off, not checking the rating (or not caring).

[dalyxxdj]

Well, good news and bad news. When I took out the fuse from the first slot in the combiner box, the watts dropped to zero from about 800. When I took out the fuse from the second one, the watts stayed the same. I then switched the fuses and, voila, 800 watts. In other words, the fuses themselves appear to be OK since either one interchangeably gives me 800 watts in the first slot. I suppose this is the good news, although I was hoping to be able to simply purchase a new fuse.

I suppose the bad news is that whatever is happening (unrelated to the batteries), is happening between the panels and the combiner box and I'd have to figure out which string it is. Correct? As I mentioned earlier, the visible connections on all the wiring seems to be OK, but are there fuses in all of those connection points that I'd have to check? I guess I'd only have to check connections on the string that is connected to the second slot in the combiner box.

Aargh!!!!

Re: Mike90250s comments, the fuses are 15A. The label says Maximum Series Fuse = 20A.

[Living Large]

Well, good news and bad news. When I took out the fuse from the first slot in the combiner box, the watts dropped to zero from about 800. When I took out the fuse from the second one, the watts stayed the same. I then switched the fuses and, voila, 800 watts. In other words, the fuses themselves appear to be OK since either one interchangeably gives me 800 watts in the first slot. I suppose this is the good news, although I was hoping to be able to simply purchase a new fuse.

I suppose the bad news is that whatever is happening (unrelated to the batteries), is happening between the panels and the combiner box and I'd have to figure out which string it is. Correct? As I mentioned earlier, the visible connections on all the wiring seems to be OK, but are there fuses in all of those connection points that I'd have to check? I guess I'd only have to check connections on the string that is connected to the second slot in the combiner box.

Aargh!!!!

Re: Mike90250s comments, the fuses are 15A. The label says Maximum Series Fuse = 20A.

This is progress, but not really 'bad' news. It will just be more challenging to fix. There is no reason to really expect it to be a fuse if it was designed properly.

Yep, you absolutely need to figure out which string it is. What I would do it pull both fuses, and then go disconnect one connector in one string, and put both fuses back in. If your power goes away, that is the string. If not, it's the other one. That's the next step, and then you go from there.

[Sunking]

When I took out the fuse from the first slot in the combiner box, the watts dropped to zero from about 800.

OK that side and fuse is good.

When I took out the fuse from the second one, the watts stayed the same. I then switched the fuses and, voila, 800 watts. In other words, the fuses themselves appear to be OK since either one interchangeably gives me 800 watts in the first slot.

Not so fast. Not sure you came to the correct conclusion. Take the fuse from the first slot you know is good, and plug it into the second position. Leave the first position open. If you plug a known good fuse into the second position, and you get power, the other fuse is bad and needs replaced.

Another way to check is try both fuses in position 1 you know that works. If it works on only 1 fuse the other is bad. If position 1 works on both fuses, then both are good. If you do have a bad string the most likely cause is a bad connection or bad panel. Report back what you find and we will go from there.

[Living Large]

OK that side and fuse is good.

Not so fast. Not sure you came to the correct conclusion. Take the fuse from the first slot you know is good, and plug it into the second position. Leave the first position open. If you plug a known good fuse into the second position, and you get power, the other fuse is bad and needs replaced.

Another way to check is try both fuses in position 1 you know that works. If it works on only 1 fuse the other is bad. If position 1 works on both fuses, then both are good. If you do have a bad string the most likely cause is a bad connection or bad panel. Report back what you find and we will go from there.

I see what you mean, Dereck. It is interpreting what he said. I inferred that he took the fuse from the non-working slot, and put it in the slot that producing 800W, and he still had 800W, with the other slot open. You read it that he swapped the fuses and still had 800W, I believe.

[dalyxxdj]

Thanks again for all the help from everyone. I really appreciate the expertise and helpful comments from everyone.

I did as Sunking said (just didn't make it clear in my earlier post) -- I tried both fuses in the first slot that I know was good, with the second slot empty, and got power from each fuse. Just to double check, I also tried both fuses in the second slot with the first slot empty, and got no power from either. So, I'm pretty sure the fuses are OK and it is the string connected to the second slot that isn't working.

Without taking off the black panel that is inside the metal cover, I can't see which string is which. Obviously the installer got inside the combiner box to wire up the wires coming in from the panels to the two fuses and then the wires coming from the fuses that go to the controller. In a regular AC box, it's fairly easy to take off the inside cover to switch out and wire the breakers, but this black cover in the combiner box looks like it was meant to stay there.

Do you think I can at least eliminate as a cause for my half-as-much-as-should-be wattage problems (except my battery sitch, of course) from anything downstream from the combiner box, i.e., from the combiner box to the controller or from the controller to the inverter, etc?

[Sunking]

I did as Sunking said (just didn't make it clear in my earlier post) -- I tried both fuses in the first slot that I know was good, with the second slot empty, and got power from each fuse. Just to double check, I also tried both fuses in the second slot with the first slot empty, and got no power from either. So, I'm pretty sure the fuses are OK and it is the string connected to the second slot that isn't working.

OK yeah you gotta bad string. Just making sure.

Without taking off the black panel that is inside the metal cover, I can't see which string is which. Obviously the installer got inside the combiner box to wire up the wires coming in from the panels to the two fuses and then the wires coming from the fuses that go to the controller. In a regular AC box, it's fairly easy to take off the inside cover to switch out and wire the breakers, but this black cover in the combiner box looks like it was meant to stay there.

Do you think I can at least eliminate as a cause for my half-as-much-as-should-be wattage problems (except my battery sitch, of course) from anything downstream from the combiner box, i.e., from the combiner box to the controller or from the controller to the inverter, etc?

No offense offered but it is time to get professional help as I believe finding the problem is beyond your skill level. The problem between the combiner and panels. Most likely wiring, you have an open circuit somewhere. 1 in 3 chance it is a bad panel which would have to be replaced. Real easy for someone with experience to find as it would take less than 5 minutes. Not sure we can walk you though the process as it takes some electrical knowledge and a good meter to isolate the problem.

So my advice is get someone to come out and find the problem. Most likely a simple wiring connection.

Good Luck and best to you. Get you some new batteries, but get the panels fixed first. Learn how to use a hydrometer and monitor your system.

SK

[dalyxxdj]

No offense taken at all. You all have been extremely patient and helpful in helping me isolate the problem. There was never any danger of me actually trying to do any wiring myself, but now I can get somebody up here and talk intelligently with them about these things and also learn what to look for next time. You can't pay for this much free advice! Again, thank you so much, and I am over and out...........

Dan

[Living Large]

No offense offered but it is time to get professional help as I believe finding the problem is beyond your skill level. The problem between the combiner and panels. Most likely wiring, you have an open circuit somewhere. 1 in 3 chance it is a bad panel which would have to be replaced. Real easy for someone with experience to find as it would take less than 5 minutes. Not sure we can walk you though the process as it takes some electrical knowledge and a good meter to isolate the problem.

So my advice is get someone to come out and find the problem. Most likely a simple wiring connection.

Good Luck and best to you. Get you some new batteries, but get the panels fixed first. Learn how to use a hydrometer and monitor your system.

SK

Agreed, based on the conversation. Someone who knows basic electricity and safety precautions could do this, but I would never recommend someone without that experience and knowledge do this job. It's worth paying a pro for the relatively small amount of labor to do it right, and do it safely. Good luck to the OP.

[Sunking]

No offense taken at all. You all have been extremely patient and helpful in helping me isolate the problem. There was never any danger of me actually trying to do any wiring myself, but now I can get somebody up here and talk intelligently with them about these things and also learn what to look for next time. You can't pay for this much free advice! Again, thank you so much, and I am over and out...........

Dan

You are welcome Dan. You are right you can get someone up there and tell him you know which string it is he needs to look at. That tells him not to try to take advantage of you. It can only be one of two things. Either a wiring problem like a bad connection he can fix right n the spot, or a panel which will require replacement. I suggest using who you used to install it as they already are familiar with it, and want to keep you as a repeat customer and will treat you fairly.

The expensive part as you are painfully aware of is the batteries. Otherwise I will be in COS the week of July 4th to play some golf, pan for some gold, and goof off in the mountains around Leadville. Maybe a zipline or fishing on the side. Got 10 days there and playing a golf tournament that week at USAF Academy Eisenhower courses. Can't wait to play Eisenhower courses again. 2nd best Military course in the world. 2nd only Congressional where that traitor POTUS plays along with Senators and Congressmen.

[paulcheung]

Since only half of the panels are working, maybe the batteries are still good as it only happen few weeks ago. Maybe an extended EQ can help revive the batteries?

[Sunking]

Since only half of the panels are working, maybe the batteries are still good as it only happen few weeks ago. Maybe an extended EQ can help revive the batteries?

Well Paul if you read through all the post he states he gets the batteries up to 57 volts and soon as he takes the charge source off they drop to 48 volts and lower very quickly.

[dalyxxdj]

UPDATE: I know I said I was over and out, but we got to Absorb today without a generator! Not sure why or how, but we did. Only thing I did today was add a little more water to the batteries. Maybe there is still some hope for the batteries. Got a guy coming next week to check it all out. Just thought you'd want to know.

[Sunking]

UPDATE: I know I said I was over and out, but we got to Absorb today without a generator! Not sure why or how, but we did. Only thing I did today was add a little more water to the batteries. Maybe there is still some hope for the batteries. Got a guy coming next week to check it all out. Just thought you'd want to know.

So put a load on them and see what happens. If the voltage dips, you still have shot batteries.

When fully charged your batteries should be able to put a 150 watt load on them all night and by morning still should be above 50 volts.

[dalyxxdj]

Put 1400 watts on and it dipped and now, alas, I'm back in Bulk. Oh well. I'll know more next week.