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Would a fuse block of this sort (Scosche EWFH Single ANL Fuse Holder) with this fuse (ANL 30 Amp Fuse Audio Electrical Protection) be appropriate from a 12 volt battery terminal leading to a 300 watt inverter?
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Here is what you are looking for. You willl need two of them if the system is floating ground, one for each battery post. These are dual units. One fuse to be used between CC and battery, and the other to a load device like an inverter.MSEE, PEComment
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Well I understand completely. The only problem with the ANL type fuse block requires you to surface mount it to something, which then requires you to use a unprotected conductor from the battery term post to the fuse.
Another method which I am not crazy about is to use an AGM fuse on the battery post. But it would likely require you to fabricate a mechanical interface. One work around is either a Bussmann HMG or FMG fuse holder with a short pigtail conductor to the battery post. However the price difference is minimal. FWIW the AGM bolt hole is .48 inches which will fit a 7/16 or 3/8 bolt.
MSEE, PEComment
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Your second option there was what I was thinking about for the ANL fuse holder. I do like the terminal mount option better, I can see the advantage. So is something like this not standard practice?Well I understand completely. The only problem with the ANL type fuse block requires you to surface mount it to something, which then requires you to use a unprotected conductor from the battery term post to the fuse.
Another method which I am not crazy about is to use an AGM fuse on the battery post. But it would likely require you to fabricate a mechanical interface. One work around is either a Bussmann HMG or FMG fuse holder with a short pigtail conductor to the battery post. However the price difference is minimal. FWIW the AGM bolt hole is .48 inches which will fit a 7/16 or 3/8 bolt.
2013-03-21 16.58.04_edit_edited-1.jpgComment
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Well I wished I had a good answer. To start your picture shows an automotive application, which operates under a completely different set of electrical codes. For example it is real easy to drop something on top of the battery post right?
Something like the Blue Sea fuse block or the AGM fuse is not ideal for mobile applications IMO. Reason is because the device is not real sturdy as it acts somewhat like a lever and may not be able to handle the mechanical stress. In addition vibration could loosen the connection. Bu tin a solar application those stresses do not exist. Most likely likely if th einstaller is thinking and experienced would likely have the batteries contained in some esort of protective non conductive enclosure with the cables dressed and secured.
So what I am say is there is more than one-way to skin a cat. and no exact right way exist. It just needs to meet the intent of electrical codes. For me the right way is the Blue Sea device because it mounts right onto the battery post. On the other hand the pig-tail device, or in-line device you show in the picture meets code requirements.
So I guess I will some it up as buy the best you can afford that lets you sleep at night.
MSEE, PEComment
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Sorry, I posted that quickly last night and should have added more detail.
I am looking for solar application. We have a few testing vehicles at my work with various sensors on-board. I took a picture of one of those setups for an example. For the pic above, the inverter powers about 400 watts of equipment. That's close to the range I was looking at, so I thought it might be applicable. It is in a battery box with a strapped down cover. I just took the cover off to get the pic.
Here's another example of a much more extensive testing setup. This one has a spare alternator to power the inverter / charge the battery.
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Thanks for all the advice! I'll check code and go from there.Comment
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I do not see a problem in your setup.MSEE, PEComment
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