Marine - 4 bank system - house/start 1, house/start 2, inverter, start back-up

[RockOn]

Folks - planning a system for a 40' aft cabin live aboard.
Goal is to have all my systems available for 5-7 days - minus AC, oven, and Hot Water heater
I've done the calc's for usage so the solar panels (3 @ 370w) and batteries will/should be sufficient, but could change out the inverter bank for lithium in the future if needed.

Please take a look.

My pref is one isolated system to feed the whole boat with only 2 connections (inverter to vessel ground and inverter to a 110v switch)
- keeps 4 banks charged
- keeps components/$ down
- keeps system separated from current house set-up for easier install (only need to run AC current marine wire to a switch)
- downside loose some efficiency from going/charging DC to 110 to DC
- leaning towards the 3000w inverter bank being 24v (based on inverter size and get lower MPPT amps)
- I do not always need to have the Battery Charger on (can turn off at the panel and leave on for several hours mid day as needed)

2nd page is more tritonal set-up with a system for each bank.
- more components
- more wiring to run (some of it heavy gauge battery wire)
- less clean set-up (inverter system stays the same so 3 installs vs 1 basically)

Comments please?

[RockOn]

No feedback? Appreciate any comments

[Bala]

No feedback? Appreciate any comments

Are your engines 12v or 24v?

I have been in involved with a couple of 20 metre + wave piercing cats, multi million dollar boats.

Each engine has its own battery system and then a separate house bank. Each engine bank can act as the back up for the other.

[RockOn]

House and engines banks are 12v AGM - as described OEM setup is port engine/house 1 and starboard engine/house 2.
I added a bank on a manual on-off-on switch for back up start to either bank if needed.

I am trying to not modify the OEM set up, but add a 24v solar bank (understand 24v is better to keep amps down and also to feed a 3000+watt inverter).
So goal is isolated system from current banks, keep component #'s down, and add AC voltage capability when I don't want to run the generator.
As an isolated system, I can also use lithium batteries for this bank as well to maximize ah.

[Bala]

House and engines banks are 12v AGM - as described OEM setup is port engine/house 1 and starboard engine/house 2.
I added a bank on a manual on-off-on switch for back up start to either bank if needed.

I am trying to not modify the OEM set up, but add a 24v solar bank (understand 24v is better to keep amps down and also to feed a 3000+watt inverter).
So goal is isolated system from current banks, keep component #'s down, and add AC voltage capability when I don't want to run the generator.
As an isolated system, I can also use lithium batteries for this bank as well to maximize ah.

Ok, I understand now.

The better of the two options would be option 1. If there is no sun you can charge your 12V batteries using the onboard generator or shore power.

For the Inverter system 48V is better again than 24V.

If it were mine I would change the whole set up. Some options may be;

The engine start batteries would be for start only and back up each other.

You could have a 48V or 24V solar system and use 48V to 12V or 24V to 12V reducers for the 12 loads.

You could have an option for shore power to charge the 48V system.

[RockOn]

Thanks for the feedback.