Basic Camp Setup

[Coydon]

I purchased William Prowse's book on setting up a basic system. I followed everything that was clear in there and have a system set up and I think ready to go. However there were a few things lacking/unclear.

The main was is the lack of any mention of grounding. Both the charge controller and inverter have a grounding bolt/screw in addition to the negative terminal. I've read about this in various places and know the system will operate without it, but have no perspective on the actual risks to myself and/or the equipment. I don't understand why, even if he thinks it isn't important for this application, he doesn't at least mention this in passing.

Another area I could use a bit more understanding in is the fuse. It is mentioned that a 50A fuse for a 40A charger shouldn't be wired with 8 gauge wire because the wire couldn't take the current and would fail before the fuse did. There is no indication how to calculate out what size wire is needed though. I have a 30A charger and bought a 40A breaker for it. I was going to use 6 gauge from the main 70A fuse to the breaker, but a friend told me they didn't think it could take the current. I didn't have any more wire so removed the 70A fuse from it's holder and placed it directly on the battery terminal, using the 2 gauge wire that had run from the battery to the fuse to connect the fuse to the breaker instead.

Finally, I have started to monitor the batteries for maintenance. All literature discussing this in general tells me to refer to the manufacturer's documentation in general. The GC2s I picked up didn't come with anything and the Interstate web site doesn't have anything but very basic info listed. I've emailed their support but is anyone here familiar with all the sub varieties of the GC2 and know what makes each more or less applicable for solar power applications, IE which to seek and which to avoid and why?

[Coydon]

1) you can use the cracked PV panel for as long as it lasts. there is no feasible repair. epoxy will reduce the light, worse then the cracks

2) I'd have gotten the 40A, but the 30A charge controller will work

The drive to get a couple of the 350W panels seems like a plan, but verify the panel Voc to the charge controller max allowable voltage input

Booklet for the Tracer3215BN says the "Max PV open circuit voltage" is 138V at 25*C. Is that the right number? The panel Voc says 47V.

[Mike90250]

1) you can use the cracked PV panel for as long as it lasts. there is no feasible repair. epoxy will reduce the light, worse then the cracks

2) I'd have gotten the 40A, but the 30A charge controller will work

The drive to get a couple of the 350W panels seems like a plan, but verify the panel Voc to the charge controller max allowable voltage input

[Coydon]

Hello, I've been scraping through this forum for a few months in anticipation of setting up a simple system to pair with a yurt. This would be a very basic system, just something to occasionally charge batteries, run a few DC lights, maybe eventually a full PC/monitor setup and/or DC refrigerator.

Right now I'm in a cabin that has a large generator in the garage and various appliances wired to it. If I could test this system out by plugging the charge controller into the right place it would be nice to just run a ceiling fan and charge a few batteries inside, but I have no idea how to go about that. The yurt situation would go live some time in March most likely.

I decided to go with 12V because of minimal demands and convenience of crossover with the electrical systems on my vehicles.

I found a great deal on an old, unused REC 290W panel. I calculated that 2 6V Interstate GC2 225ah batteries should cover my initial needs. These will have to deal with extreme cold in all likelyhood and the chances of damaging LFPs before they pay back on the investment seems too high. Given the batteries and the panel, I've guesstimated that a 30A charge controller would be appropriate, though I'm not sure I understand all the factors. I bought an EPEver 30A MPPT. I'm kinda wondering if paying the extra $35 for a 40A would work with this and give me more flexibility to upsize going forward?

We had some 60+ MPH wind gusts a few weeks ago and I had the heavy panel leaning up on a tree at what I thought was a safe angle, but it ended up being flung onto a stump like the face of a sledge hammer. The entire glass is crazed into dime sized chunks, but all still in place. Can I still use this in reduced capacity to test my setup? What performance should I expect, and how much would it improve with some sort of 'healing' epoxy on it? Is it possible/worthwhile to replace the entire glass?

Looking around, I found someone not too far away selling the 350W REC Twinpeak split panels. These seem available from eBay for $175 + undisclosed freight. This place is 75 miles away and selling for $225. Would one these be a good investment for the situation I've outlined?

Another place 250mi away is selling the panels for 170. If I waited a few months (when I could use the full capacity of the system more), I might find reason to travel that way as part of another 'mission'. They might also sell out if these are a good deal. I also travel to Madison and Milwaukee, WI occasionally to see friends and family if there are places around there to find deals at. Seems like everyone here giving location info is from Socal though?

Thanks for reading through all this...