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Controller output V and upgrade options?

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  • Controller output V and upgrade options?

    I have a 2004 Lance 915 Lite with an Evergreen Solar EC-51 50w panel and a Specialty Concepts ASC controller.

    I had pulled my battery (less than a year old) over this past winter, kept it in my shop on trickle charge - full water levels - as I always do. Tested and checked water before putting it in the camper. During a camping trip, the battery seemed to discharge sooner than normal - plugged the camper into the generator (stand-alone) while camping. We started smelling a whiff of hit wire so I shut down the generator. Later still smelled the hot wire - only for a brief moment again.

    When I got home, I pulled the battery to give it a charge, found the water levels were super low. My new fancy battery charger kept reading an error after running its full charge cycle. ergg.

    I ended up pulling a battery from my boat - put it into the camper and all was fine until I connected the solar lead from the controller, got a big spark. Unhooked and pulled the battery back out.

    Long story short - I tested the solar controller output with no load and bright sun - read at 18V (??) -- then I put the battery back in and hooked it up (carefully, maybe dumb?) and found that with a load it read 16V. That seems awful high to me, no?

    I'm assuming the controller is out - but as you can probably easily tell, I am nowhere near an electrician (I'm a biologist...). Makes me worry if this is how controllers end their lives. The whole solar unit came with the camper when I bought it - I don't know enough about it.

    If the controller is dead, presuming someday I'd like to upgrade the panel to dual panels of more kick - is there a controller I could upgrade to that might work with the panel I have as well as do well for a later upgrade? I hate wasting money I don't have.

    go easy on me, I already claimed my ignorance in all this.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    I am not sure where the failure is but first I should say that most charge controllers need to be connected to the battery first and then the solar panels. That is to get the inverter working with the correct output voltage that matches the battery.

    I also believe that a 50 watt panel will barely provide enough charging amps for any battery over 25Ah.

    Also in some cases a trickle charger will slowly dry up the water in a battery over a long period of time. If your battery can be opened then you need to check the acid content which will tell you a better SOC value then just measuring the voltage.

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    • #3
      Instructions on the charge controller will tell you how to hook it up. Without the battery attached, damage could occur. The battery needs to be attached first before solar panels. This lets some charge controllers determine the battery size so it will send the proper voltage. Some you need to manually enter the battery voltage before.

      Is this a new to you RV? Also, when you used this with the charge controller before, how differently does it act.

      If there’s an instruction book for your charge controller. I’d recommend reading that.

      Comment


      • #4
        I've read the instructions countless times. It doesn't recommend the installation order as you suggest; I looked from many angles - happy for someone to show me wrong. Short of that though - I covered the panels before disconnecting and hooking the batteries up (just to be "safe"). There's no other way to disconnect the controller short of squeezing under the tight sink and unscrewing the connectors from the screws on the controller terminals. Doing that anytime the battery needs to be removed? bleh - seems there should be a switch, no??

        But yes, this is a new RV to me - new as in I've had it a year, but used it minimally so far. Mostly in the winter; cloudy days. But plenty of summer and spring trips too.

        How differently does it work now than before? It never threw sparks when switching out batteries. It just ... worked. And it did charge the battery - I know it's low wattage, but it kept things going for several days.

        As for my battery being on trickle charge, I mentioned that I checked the water - and the levels were fine when I put it in the camper early spring - it's a new, smart charger and hasn't seemed to cause problems with other batteries.
        Last edited by BigWapiti; 07-26-2020, 12:51 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          I guess, rereading my OP, I should have clarified that when I put the boat battery in - I had covered the solar panel with plywood -- not that this is the "proper" method you mention, but it cut the electrons flowing into the controller. As I said, I'm new to solar. But I have read through the instructions several times. Not that the instructions were well written..

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by BigWapiti View Post
            I guess, rereading my OP, I should have clarified that when I put the boat battery in - I had covered the solar panel with plywood -- not that this is the "proper" method you mention, but it cut the electrons flowing into the controller. As I said, I'm new to solar. But I have read through the instructions several times. Not that the instructions were well written..
            I would say its the charge controller, as you have done everything correctly. I did see you wrote that you connected the Solar lead after connecting the battery, which of course is correct.
            The charge controller is only supposed to give the correct charge Voltage, to charge the batteries, so if the output is 16Volts then the controller is certainly not working correctly.

            As has been said above the controller determines the battery type and Voltage at initial switch on, so should be able to determine what sort of battery you have connected and thus its maximum charging Voltage.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Asterix View Post

              I would say its the charge controller, as you have done everything correctly. I did see you wrote that you connected the Solar lead after connecting the battery, which of course is correct.
              The charge controller is only supposed to give the correct charge Voltage, to charge the batteries, so if the output is 16Volts then the controller is certainly not working correctly.

              As has been said above the controller determines the battery type and Voltage at initial switch on, so should be able to determine what sort of battery you have connected and thus its maximum charging Voltage.
              Thank you for this. I appreciate the advice.

              Is there a good process to go through in finding a new controller? I can't afford a new solar system but do intend to at some not-so-distant future date. Is it even possible to get a controller now and use it for a future upgrade? I'm showing my ignorance so I'll stop now.

              Comment


              • #8
                i would read the manual for the controller and see if it auto-selects the battery voltage, or if you manually select the voltage.

                The disconnect it completely and from a cold start, connect it to the battery, let it boot up, and then connect the solar and see if it works properly. If not working properly, you need a new controller.

                You can go inexpensive and use a PWM controller in the $40-$80 range, or a genuine MPPT controller in the $300 range.

                PWM controllers only manipulate the voltage, amps input = amps output
                MPPT controllers are much more sophisticated , They do a fancy DC-DC conversion and match the panel output to the battery, Watts in = watts out.

                A 50w panel would require several days to recharge a low battery and in my opinion, not worth using a MPPT controller with it.
                A 50w panel at 14V, would be about 3.5A in the best conditions, so a 5A PWM controller would be sufficient .



                Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
                  i would read the manual for the controller and see if it auto-selects the battery voltage, or if you manually select the voltage.

                  The disconnect it completely and from a cold start, connect it to the battery, let it boot up, and then connect the solar and see if it works properly. If not working properly, you need a new controller.

                  You can go inexpensive and use a PWM controller in the $40-$80 range, or a genuine MPPT controller in the $300 range.

                  PWM controllers only manipulate the voltage, amps input = amps output
                  MPPT controllers are much more sophisticated , They do a fancy DC-DC conversion and match the panel output to the battery, Watts in = watts out.

                  A 50w panel would require several days to recharge a low battery and in my opinion, not worth using a MPPT controller with it.
                  A 50w panel at 14V, would be about 3.5A in the best conditions, so a 5A PWM controller would be sufficient .
                  THANKS!!
                  Found this one on amazon - just until I can upgrade everything? It's better than the one I have installed now. heh. But can I go wrong?



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The PWM stuff is pretty basic and I'd suggest getting the 10A version for $25. - it might last a bit longer
                    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                    Comment

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