Help with Design for multi RV charging setup

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  • NCmountainsOffgrid
    Solar Fanatic
    • Dec 2018
    • 100

    #16
    if 'wintering' for stored RVs is in question, each RV already has it's own 12v Disconnect that allows the House battery bank to be disconnected, just for this reason - so that batteries aren't drained while in storage - the disconnect is actually called the 'USE/STORE' switch. Some find that they like having some power, regardless, but it's not necessary, and most RVrs aren't as requiring of it as you might think.
    Installing solar arrays, controllers, and wiring just to give storage RVs 'some' power is probably an expensive proposition compared to what you'll get back in fees, and if solar isn't 'working' properly for your paid RV owners, how are you going to 'fix it', if it's simply because the sun isn't out, weeks of clouds or rain, etc., or are you going to have owners want to argue that they 'need' that power and that's 'why' they stored it with you(?)... I think electrical might be overkill.
    Last edited by NCmountainsOffgrid; 04-13-2020, 11:35 AM.

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    • PNW_Steve
      Solar Fanatic
      • Aug 2014
      • 433

      #17
      I thought that spending about $100 was a bargain after replacing $400 worth of batteries.

      Again, an 80watt panel and a reasonably priced PWM controller worked great for keeping my 3x group 31 starting batteries happy.

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      • PNW_Steve
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2014
        • 433

        #18
        Originally posted by NCmountainsOffgrid
        if 'wintering' for stored RVs is in question, each RV already has it's own 12v Disconnect that allows the House battery bank to be disconnected, just for this reason - so that batteries aren't drained while in storage - the disconnect is actually called the 'USE/STORE' switch. Some find that they like having some power, regardless, but it's not necessary, and most RVrs aren't as requiring of it as you might think.
        Installing solar arrays, controllers, and wiring just to give storage RVs 'some' power is probably an expensive proposition compared to what you'll get back in fees, and if solar isn't 'working' properly for your paid RV owners, how are you going to 'fix it', if it's simply because the sun isn't out, weeks of clouds or rain, etc., or are you going to have owners want to argue that they 'need' that power and that's 'why' they stored it with you(?)... I think electrical might be overkill.
        Battery cut off switches are a great idea. I have them on both my house and chassis batteries. Unfortunately they do nothing for self discharge. I stored one of mine longer than I had intended. Life happens. After sitting for eight months my batteries were degraded to the point that if I let it sit for more than a day it would not start. I replaced them and added my $100 solar tender. No worries now.

        If OP had shore power in the facility it would make the most sense to use it. Lacking shore power, I would not hesitate to spend a couple of hours and a hundred bucks for each space to add that amenity for your guests.

        Just my $0.02.

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        • Ampster
          Solar Fanatic
          • Jun 2017
          • 3649

          #19
          Originally posted by NCmountainsOffgrid
          if 'wintering' for stored RVs is in question, each RV already has it's own 12v Disconnect that allows the House battery bank to be disconnected, just for this reason - so that batteries aren't drained while in storage - the disconnect is actually called the 'USE/STORE' switch. Some find that they like having some power, regardless, but it's not necessary, and most RVrs aren't as requiring of it as you might think.
          Installing solar arrays, controllers, and wiring just to give storage RVs 'some' power is probably an expensive proposition compared to what you'll get back in fees, and if solar isn't 'working' properly for your paid RV owners, how are you going to 'fix it', if it's simply because the sun isn't out, weeks of clouds or rain, etc., or are you going to have owners want to argue that they 'need' that power and that's 'why' they stored it with you(?)... I think electrical might be overkill.
          Good points from a risk management perspective. I am risk adverse so I would provide the technical support and the infrastructure in the form of wires and a structure to support solar panels. It would be hard to provide a system that works for everyone. The one tenant that already has weak batteries and plugs into your system will blame you if you couldn't provide enough capacity. If you had unlimited 120v capacity it would be a different story.
          NOTE: As an after thought, as more RVs evolve to Lithium batteries, self discharge would not be an issue that would need to be addressed.
          Last edited by Ampster; 04-13-2020, 01:40 PM.
          9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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          • chrisski
            Solar Fanatic
            • May 2020
            • 547

            #20
            Mostly following along to learn about proper charging of batteries.

            I used a solarargizer to keep the Dual Batteries on my truck charged for six months. Started up nice and strong afterwards. I can no longer find this product.

            For my fifth wheel, with a single battery, used a 10 watt solar panel from an auto part store, that I screwed up my extending the wires by 25 feet into the sun. Did not produce enough voltage with the loss from the extended too small gauge wires, and killed the battery. I now remove the battery, and charge with a battery tender junior.

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