Transfer Switch or Seperate A/C Outlets

Are you sure about the Ah. capacity of the golf cart batteries? Typical GC2 batteries are 210 to 240 amp hours.
The coffee maker will be challenging to run with your set up. If you can get it to run and brew coffee I strongly recommend you get an insulated carafe and turn off the coffee maker the second it finishes brewing. The other thing I would recommend is to keep the inverter turned off except when actually using it. Inverters can suck up a lot of power just sitting there, doing nothing.
BTW, personally I would nix the transfer switch and keep this inverter power separate from the trailers ac system. One thing that happens if not isolated is the 110ac to 12 vdc converter will be trying to charge the batteries from.....the batteries! Eventually you end up with dead batteries.

OK, well I'm new here and have a quick question.

I'm installing a Renogy RV low end system into my 30 foot toyhauler. My intention is to use it to keep the batteries topped off in the daytime, and run a coffeemaker and maybe a blender or such small kitchen appliances in the morning for the wife. I'm not trying to power the television or Airconditioner or Fridge. We are not fulltime RV people and use the trailer about 10X a year. Or about 45 days total a year. We boondock in a shadeless desert, 90 percent of the time. I'm just trying to save from running the generator and the associated noise. And keep the batteries topped off while the trailer is in storage.

So, that being said, here's my setup:

30 foot trailer with a built in Onan 4000 generator. 2x 110 Amp 6 V Golf Cart flooded batteries, in Series.
Single Airconditioner unit. Fridge is A/C and/or Propane. Furnace is 12V.

Solar is a Renogy 200 W RV kit. Which includes 2x 100 watt RV compact panels which I'll run in parallel, and Renogy PWM Adventure Controller with bluetooth cell phone monitor. And associated wire and brackets.

The Renogy kit is P/N: RNG-KIT-RV200D-ADV30-BC

The controller specs are;
12v/24v
30 Amp
Max Volts 50 VDC

Panels are: (x2)
Renogy 100 W, 12 . (Old style)

1100 w Krieger inverter.

So, instead of going thru a transfer switch through the trailer's 110 fuse box and dealing with that; My plan is to run a seperate 110 power off of the inverter to a single 'seperate system' 110 outlet in the kitchen. To power the coffee maker, small appliances, etc. Install a red or yellow outlet to differentiate. Wired with outdoor romex thru a fuse and thru flex 1/2" conduit.

Is this a good plan?

Or should I just buy a transfer switch and go that route?

I have no interest in powering the whole trailer on solar. The amount of time we use it, and the cost associated would be a waste.

I'm a fix it type, but avoid electrical fix it jobs. I save that for the pros. So i hope you rocket scientists out there take it easy on me. Give it to me straight and simple if you can. I appreciate your time. Thank you.