How do I mount a Drok shunt for the meter?

[joerossjr]

I bought a $20 Drok meter with a shunt, and I can't figure out how to physically mount the shunt. Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BDQHE6

I am mounting things to ply wood until I can figure out the final connections and installation spot in my van, and I have searched for pics of about every combination of DROK, SHUNT, MOUNT, and SOLAR... I can't seem to find any pics of where it's installed. I see how to connect it, but not how to physically mount it in anywhere! I have seen them attached to a plastic riser with screw holes, but this one doesn't have that plastic thing. HALP!! Thanks!

EDIT: Pic of underside of shunt: http://imgur.com/GMEiQ8B

[inetdog]

I suppose that you could simply mount it to the battery bank negative terminal itself using a short metal plate and then attach the negative wire to the other end of the shunt.
Does not sound like a mechanically sound mounting though.

You could also just use some plastic cable or pipe mounting clamps to hold the shunt down to the surface of your choice.

[bcroe]

When mounting, keep in mind a shunt may run a lot hotter than regular wiring. Bruce Roe

[joerossjr]

Why can I not find pictures of these things installed anywhere?? I was going to zip tie it to a plastic sheet and screw that to plywood after making the connections.... but there has got to be a better way!

[Mike90250]

Here's a shunt, that comes on a heatproof holder and mounts inside a metal wiring box. Shunt is on left side, below a bus strip. That's a 250A breaker on the right side. DC rated breakers are really big.

100aShuntInBox.jpg

And here it is full of wire. Sadly, your shunt has no mounting provisions that I can see,
Cables are sleeved with "liquid tight" flex conduit.

RonK_e-PanelComplete.jpg

Note that DC breakers are marked LINE & LOAD, so the internal Arc Quench Chute functions properly.

[joerossjr]

Thanks Mike!! I love those pics. I am such a geek.... I also looked at your facebook stuff. Good stuff man!! So the issue with my shunt is it's a cheap piece of crap I guess and does not come with any insulator to mount it. So I will just use this for the DC panel or something and get a better shunt and meter down the road.

Also... refresh my memory on one thing please: The breaker schematics show a resistor in parallel. That prevents arcing right??? Does that resistor ever blow? I am sure it's in the M-Ohm range. If it never blows and it's an internal component of the breaker... why show it at all on the schematic? Just so you know that there's SOME continuity through the breaker (or is that completely incorrect?? I am guessing at this point.)

[azdave]

Might seem crude but in a vehicle application, I've slid a piece of PVC sprinkler pipe over the whole assembly after it is wired so it can't short to anything. I secured the PVC pipe to the larger power cables with Zip-Ty's so the tube stays open but cannot slip up or down the cable. I secured the smaller wires going to the meter with a loop and another Zip-Ty to form a strain relief. Don't forget to fuse the smaller wire going to the meter.

[Mike90250]

I think that resistor in parallel with the breaker is part of a DC ground fault system - your schematics should show and explain it.

[joerossjr]

Might seem crude but in a vehicle application, I've slid a piece of PVC sprinkler pipe over the whole assembly after it is wired so it can't short to anything. I secured the PVC pipe to the larger power cables with Zip-Ty's so the tube stays open but cannot slip up or down the cable. I secured the smaller wires going to the meter with a loop and another Zip-Ty to form a strain relief. Don't forget to fuse the smaller wire going to the meter.

Can you provide a pic please? I think I understand what you are describing, but it'd be better to see. I do appreciate it.