RV Help with concept especially fusing

[chamilton]

I am installing a small RV Solar system (500W, MPPT 45A, 4x Trojan T015 460Ah, Xantrex 1000HFS) for my travel trailer 27ft. Need it for boondocking and early spring fishing and late fall hunting trips. Yes I have a diesel 6500w generator for backup (but too loud). I have a drawing for the concept and need to understand fusing and parallel vs. series. Here is list of what I have and a diagram. See list of questions on fusing. Yes I need the 1000 HFS because I will change out my converter charger and replace with this unit so I do not have redundency. I need About 136ah per 24 hour period (no AC or Microwave) main concern is the Furnace DC fan of about 10-13 amps. I almost forgot gets cold in Canada below 0 Celcuis at night.

Q1 So I was thinking of using 2x250Watt Planels in Series ?? thought Series need help
Q2 Fuses between the Panels and MPPT were put in just for safety ?? Ok and size
Q3 Fuses between the MPPT and the 2 set of Batteries ?? Ok and size
Q4 Fuses between the Inverter/Charger and Batteries ?? size and why
Q5 Fuses between the Batteries and the DC Panel ?? size and why
Q6 Best RV backets for curved rood ??

Equipment list

Done	Solar Panels 250 watt 30.1V, 8.3A	2
Done	Manual Battery Switch - Blue Sea	2
?	Breakers (____ amp) Battery to DC Panel	1
?	Breakers (____ amp) Inverter to Battery	1
?	Breakers (30 amp) Solar Panel to MPPT	1
?	Breakers (30 amp) MPPT to Batteries #1 & #2	2
Done	Morning Star Controller MPPT 45 A	1
Done	& Battery Temp and remote
Done	DC-AC Inverter 1000W with charger and transfer	1
Done	Remote Inverter Switch included
Done	Xantrex Freedom 1000w HFS
Done	Front Battery	1
Done	6V Trojan T105	4
Done	Wires Series / Parallel	1
?	Panel Brackets Z & Screws	12
?	Cables Panel to MPPT- 30 ft	60

Look forward to the forum help
Thanks

[Sunking]

Q1 So I was thinking of using 2x250Watt Planels in Series ?? thought Series need help
Q2 Fuses between the Panels and MPPT were put in just for safety ?? Ok and size
Q3 Fuses between the MPPT and the 2 set of Batteries ?? Ok and size
Q4 Fuses between the Inverter/Charger and Batteries ?? size and why
Q5 Fuses between the Batteries and the DC Panel ?? size and why
Q6 Best RV backets for curved rood ??

A1. You are using a MPPT Controller, it would be foolish to wire the panels in Parallel. SERIES.

A2. Throw them away. There is absolutely no need for fuses or breakers between the panels and controller. Fuses are not required or needed with 2 parallel strings or less. You wil only have 1 string with bot panels wired in series.

A3. Let's see a 45 amp MPPT controller. 50 amp. However the fuse is installed directly to the battery Term Post. The battery is the source of power. You will need a minimum #8 AWG

A4. Figure it out yourself. It will be listed in the Inverter Manufacture Specs. Again this fuse is installed directly on the Battery Tern Post. Hint: 1000 watt 12 volt Inverter will draw 100 amps. 1.25 x 100 Amps = 125 Amp Fuse. You will need a minimum #4 AWG wire.

A5. Figure it out yourself. You have not provide any useful information to give you a good advice. .

In reference to Q4 and Q5 you are going about it all wrong. If you had looked at the stickies would have answered most of your questions. Or at least allowed you to ask detailed questions. Read this and study Post #2 should help. Note Battery Isolator which you have not included. You will want an Electronic Battery Isolator. This will allow your engine alternator to charge your batteries. The Alternator will do most of the charging. It will take your panels 2 or 3 days to generate as much energy your alternator can do in a hour or two.

[ewarnerusa]

While there is not much need as far as safety, I would definitely keep your circuit breaker between the panels and controller. Hopefully you dive into your Morningstar controller's programmable options and you'll want a convenient way to remove the panel input from the controller when making program changes. Every program change requires a controller reset and the protocol is to remove panel input first and then disconnect controller from the battery. When reconnecting the controller start with battery and then connect the panels. CB is quick and easy.

[chamilton]

Ewarmerusa, Thanks that was why I was adding it. Between the panels and the controller. What brackets did you used on the roof? And did you swap out the 12 v converter?

[chamilton]

Sunking, Thanks I adusted my drawing to take into account Q2, Q3 and Q4 thanks I am keeping my CB for Q1.

[ewarnerusa]

Ewarmerusa, Thanks that was why I was adding it. Between the panels and the controller. What brackets did you used on the roof? And did you swap out the 12 v converter?

Circuit breakers serve as a disconnect switch. I have one on the battery side of the controller as well (in addition to fuse on the battery post) for convenience, once you start tinkering with your charge program you may not be able to stop yourself from constantly tweaking it and you'll be grateful to have on/off switches for doing the controller resets. My CB are located right near the controller for convenience.

I used Z-brackets from solarblvd.com to mount the panels. Mine are fixed and flat, or near flat anyway. They are slightly angled due to the rounded profile of the camper roof, but this is a good thing as it offers a way for water to drain off the panel.

I did not swap out my converter, I just rewired its AC power supply to its own breaker in the control panel. This breaker is pretty much permanently off since we rarely plug into grid power. When we camp we just plug the shore power cable into an inverter outlet, so keeping the converter breaker off is critical. Fridge and water heater are always on propane. Solar charges and maintains the batteries, along with any charging that happens while driving from the trailer-to-tow vehicle connection. I ordered a soft start kit for our air conditioner which should allow us to run it reliably with our Yamaha 2400 generator, so I'll start bringing the gen along again. But even then I'll leave the converter breaker off when plugged into it because I'll want every watt available from the gen to run the air con.

[chamilton]

Sunking, Q4 &Q5 This is a Travel Trailer not a coach or a motor home (no engine). I am often 3+ hours one from a gas station. I am not in a campground. I am not plugging in my truck, I am out doing things. Most Travel Trailers have trickle 12 v chargers that will not properly charge batteries, that is why I went with the MPPT and the inverter/charger/transfer switch from the generator both will give me the proper charging and monitoring not my current trailer charging system hooked up to my truck. I tried this and froze!!!!

[-TX-]

I don't know, CHamilton, mine is a camper too and Sunking's suggestion has me thinking. Adding a battery isolater and then running 15' of cheap wire from that switch to an added plug on my camper battery bank seems a worthwhile idea. Sounds like < $100 and an hour of time to add another charging source.

[-TX-]

Ewarmerusa, Thanks that was why I was adding it. Between the panels and the controller. What brackets did you used on the roof? And did you swap out the 12 v converter?

FWIW, I had a difficult time finding appropriate brackets and gave up. Instead I bought $20 worth of 1/4" 2"x2" angled aluminum and made them myself on my redneck table saw.

20170304_161655.jpg

[ewarnerusa]

I don't know, CHamilton, mine is a camper too and Sunking's suggestion has me thinking. Adding a battery isolater and then running 15' of cheap wire from that switch to an added plug on my camper battery bank seems a worthwhile idea. Sounds like < $100 and an hour of time to add another charging source.

A 7-pin trailer connector will already have a 12V line that provides charging while hooked up, no need to purchase and install anything else. The issue is that this is connected to the vehicle's 12V power source via a long skinny wire that doesn't allow a whole lot of current to make it to the battery for meaningful quick charging. If you're driving/towing the camper regularly as part of normal use, then it is a good investment to beef up this charging path. But I think most people interested in solar for RV use are trying to avoid firing up even a generator for battery charging, much less a several hundred horsepower vehicle engine.

[chamilton]

TX - Great, I have that at my shop I will do the same. I think I have 2" x 3" . So with the rounded roof I can reverse the profiles to make the panels install with just a little slope for water run off.

[chamilton]

I might consider the idea of beefed up charding for towing purposes only.However, once again if you drive for 6-8 hours this need to go through some smart charger.Does anyone have a picture of this isolator and the wiring.

[chamilton]

TX - What about using the other 4 pin connection on the truck with a separate wire and fuse with isolator through a small smart charger. Just guessing.

[Sunking]

Sunking, Thanks I adjusted my drawing to take into account Q2, Q3 and Q4 thanks I am keeping my CB for Q1.

Why? You have no use for it if you wire the panels in series. You are just adding a weak link in a chain or a fragile egg in the basket. Do as you want, but you just added more labor, materials, taking up valuable space, and a point of mechanical failure.

[Sunking]

I might consider the idea of beefed up charging for towing purposes only.However, once again if you drive for 6-8 hours this need to go through some smart charger.

No it does not. The Isolator does all that work. Your solar system is not capable of fully charging your batteries. It takes 12 to 24 hours to charge a battery. Only commercial AC power or a long drive on an alternator can do that. You need either or both a Generator and/or Alternator to save your butt from solar. When was the last time you parked with no shade issues from sunrise to sunset with clear view of the horizon? Even that is not enough to charge your house batteries. .

Not much to the wiring. It has a minimum of 3 ports (Alternator Input, SLI Battery output, House Battery output), and a VR port or Voltage Regulator from the Alternator to control the Voltage of your alternator. The output for the house battery goes directly to your House Battery via a fuse. to protect the wiring. The good thing for those that drive daily can toss their solar panels in the trash can at the next rest stop area along the highway.