Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Splitting Load Between Both Battery Terminals on Ser/Par Config? Yes, No, Sometimes?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Splitting Load Between Both Battery Terminals on Ser/Par Config? Yes, No, Sometimes?

    I saw a couple diagrams while searching on the net that had it wired like A, but most wired like B. Not sure what the reason is for the difference.


    BATT CONN.jpg

  • #2
    I would suppose B is more correct, and repeatable over time, All connections should be at one point on the + and -
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
      I would suppose B is more correct, and repeatable over time, All connections should be at one point on the + and -
      OK thanks. How many lugs can you stack on a post, or I should say "should" you stack on a post at the most.

      Comment


      • #4
        So, the highest current cable, goes closest to the battery terminal. That's usually the inverter + & - cables. Then the charge controller cables on top of that, then any others on that, then the bolt/nut on top.
        Fuses.
        I love these -
        https://www.bluesea.com/products/215...k_-_30_to_300A
        rugged, you can put inverter on it's own fuse, and good sturdy low resistance connections

        MRBF blue sea fuse block.png
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

        Comment


        • #5
          Technically neither is correct. You only want just one feeder circuit from the battery. If you need battery power to more than one device, you should use a buss with breaker panel to distribute loads. Something like this.

          MSEE, PE

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
            So, the highest current cable, goes closest to the battery terminal. That's usually the inverter + & - cables. Then the charge controller cables on top of that, then any others on that, then the bolt/nut on top.
            Fuses.
            I love these -
            https://www.bluesea.com/products/215...k_-_30_to_300A
            rugged, you can put inverter on it's own fuse, and good sturdy low resistance connections

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n332590[/ATTACH]
            Those are awesome. Here is the question though. One thing that does suck some amps, is the amps. The stereo is a beast. I need to run a supply line to them on a 200 watt fuse, each amp getting a 100 watt fuse. The terminal fuse buss is only 300 amps, I need to run a 200 watt fuse on that for the inverter and another 50 amp fuse for accessories so both those banks are allocated. Can I stack two or more of these terminal fuses on the battery post, one being a combo 200/50 amp and the other being a single 200 amp for the stereo?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Sunking View Post
              Technically neither is correct. You only want just one feeder circuit from the battery. If you need battery power to more than one device, you should use a buss with breaker panel to distribute loads. Something like this.

              Do you have a particular brand/style you suggest?

              Comment


              • #8
                And could you use a bus like this


                and connect terminal fuses to it?

                Comment


                • #9
                  I would NOT stack the terminal fuse blocks on the battery terminal
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by austexdude469 View Post
                    Do you have a particular brand/style you suggest?
                    Blue Sea has what you want
                    MSEE, PE

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                      Technically neither is correct. You only want just one feeder circuit from the battery. If you need battery power to more than one device, you should use a buss with breaker panel to distribute loads. Something like this.

                      OK thanks. Now where do I want to connect the positives from both the DC converter (30 amp) and from the 200 amp HO alternator/isolator? Should I go into the bus with them? I see many people going to the blade fuse block bus from the DC converter but I am more concerned about the feed from the HO alt.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Does this help?

                        NOTE:Use a Cartridge Type Fuse at the Isolator.

                        Last edited by Sunking; 10-17-2016, 01:54 PM.
                        MSEE, PE

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                          Does this help?

                          NOTE:Use a Cartridge Type Fuse at the Isolator.

                          yes thank you

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                            Does this help?

                            NOTE:Use a Cartridge Type Fuse at the Isolator.

                            Question on this SunKing.... the 4-6 awg going to the isolator may only account for a stock alt running at 90 amps. Mine will have a HO 200 amp alt. The cable will have to run about 15' to 20'. Do I need to upgrade wire size from the isolator and to what gauge?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by austexdude469 View Post

                              Question on this SunKing.... the 4-6 awg going to the isolator may only account for a stock alt running at 90 amps. Mine will have a HO 200 amp alt. The cable will have to run about 15' to 20'. Do I need to upgrade wire size from the isolator and to what gauge?
                              Kind of a gray area. 200 amps is to much unless you have a 2000 pound battery. By using 4 or 6 AWG over the distance limits the current via the resistance in the length and size of the conductor. So the answer to your Question is I would start use 6 AWG. By fusing both ends will protect the conductor and battery. Al lot is going to depend on the battery. As a general rule you do not want to hit the battery with anything greater than C/8. Trojan, Rolls, and some other hybrid batteries are good up to C/5 charge current. On the other hand some AGM batteries can be charged at 1C. That makes your question a little hard to answer.

                              However if you use 4 or 6 AWG coupled with using fuse son both ends I am confident the resistance of the wire and fuses will limit current to a safe value. Real easy to tell. If a fuse blows, you gotta problem.
                              MSEE, PE

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X