I JUST Wanna Run My Fridge On Propane...

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  • mitch5252
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 20

    I JUST Wanna Run My Fridge On Propane...

    Let me begin by saying that I am TOTALLY new to using solar for my little travel trailer.
    I am trying to digest all this information and just shake my head at how you all know so much!

    I LOVE to dry camp. I use a lantern, live off of gallon water bottles (so no pump), don't use the furnace.

    All I want to run from my newly purchased AGM Group 31 battery is the fridge control panel, while running the fridge on LP.
    Last year, my battery kept dying and I did not know at that time that the dang fridge had a heater to keep moisture off the seals. UGH.
    I FINALLY figured out how to disconnect that stupid heater (lost the interior fridge light, but who cares...)
    I cannot add additional battery weight to the tongue, so 2 x 6Vs were out of the equation.

    I have 1 x 100W flexible solar panel (Renogy, and NOT included in their recall).
    I have just ordered a second 100W flex panel and a new PWM controller (Windy Nation)

    Is running just the fridge on propane a reasonable expectation from 200W of solar?
    Or do I stick to my backup plan - I gifted myself a Yeti cooler this past Christmas...

    All these numbers can make a person's head explode.
    Thanks for your input and advice.

    Windy Nation PWM Controller.JPG
  • Sunking
    Solar Fanatic
    • Feb 2010
    • 23301

    #2
    Yes
    MSEE, PE

    Comment

    • mitch5252
      Junior Member
      • Sep 2013
      • 20

      #3
      Do you think that the Volt reading on that controller will be somewhere in the ballpark for accuracy?
      Would using my multi-meter to measure volts be better?

      Comment


      • Logan005
        Logan005 commented
        Editing a comment
        You need a Multi Meter period. You have expensive batteries and a refrigerator full of food at risk. You can not rely on a cheap Charge controllers voltage display. You can obtain a nice DMM on E-bay for less than $30 bucks.
    • Sunking
      Solar Fanatic
      • Feb 2010
      • 23301

      #4
      Accurate enough for what you want. A DMM use don the battery post is more accurate, but using voltage on a working system does not tell you much. When th esunset you want to see about 13.5 volts, and by morning around 12.5 volts.
      MSEE, PE

      Comment

      • ewarnerusa
        Solar Fanatic
        • Apr 2016
        • 139

        #5
        You will have plenty of solar and adequate battery, why not use the camper's plumbing and lighting system like it was designed for?! The fridge control panel will draw about 1 A DC 24x7. I suggest changing all your 12V lights to LED which will cut the lighting load considerably. The water pump is on for such a short amount of time that it is not a load worth worrying about.
        I'm an RV camper with 470 watts of solar

        Comment

        • mitch5252
          Junior Member
          • Sep 2013
          • 20

          #6
          Originally posted by ewarnerusa
          You will have plenty of solar and adequate battery, why not use the camper's plumbing and lighting system like it was designed for?! The fridge control panel will draw about 1 A DC 24x7. I suggest changing all your 12V lights to LED which will cut the lighting load considerably. The water pump is on for such a short amount of time that it is not a load worth worrying about.

          All the lights have been changed out to LEDs (one of the first things I did when I got the trailer). Couple of days ago, I took my new Craftsman Clamp Meter over to the trailer. Unplugged from shore power, and only turned on the fridge (and the LP sensor). The clamp meter (on the black battery cable?) read ~0.58ish...but the fan hadn't turned on yet. I hope that the meter is accurate enough to tell me the truth about that dang fridge! I don't carry water in the tank, so there's no need for the pump. I use both tanks (gray and black) for their intended purposes...gotta love the quiet in the forest.

          Comment


          • ewarnerusa
            ewarnerusa commented
            Editing a comment
            Obviously it's your camper and your rules! But the black tank should get plenty of water per flush or you'll end up with problems in the future from accumulation of solids (brown pyramid...) The LED conversion is a huge power savings, well done. Your fridge reading sounds right, mine is similar as shown by a clamp meter. My fridge has a sticker on the door that says it is rated at 1A DC, so that is what I use for a rule of thumb. Great work disabling the door heater, they most definitely suck the battery down.
            I agree about the quiet in the forest. We strictly dry camp as well and while I bring our Yamaha inverter generator along for emergency, we get by just fine on solar alone. 280 watts (PWM), 2x6V batteries, and a power inverter for any AC electrical gadgets. But we never leave home without a full fresh water tank and water heater and use the heck out of that stuff!
            Last edited by ewarnerusa; 06-20-2016, 02:13 PM.
        • mitch5252
          Junior Member
          • Sep 2013
          • 20

          #7
          Here are the two meters that I will travel with. Please understand that, for the most part, I haven't a clue. I can do the voltage, and now with the Clamp Meter, maybe the current. I can do continuity. And that, solar geniuses, is the current extent of my meter knowledge...(my mantra = widowhood ain't for sissies)

          Meters.jpg

          Comment

          • mitch5252
            Junior Member
            • Sep 2013
            • 20

            #8
            I learned about the "Dreaded Poopie Pyramid" even before I had my first trailer. I usually end up adding a ton of water (from the jugs) just before I dump.

            I just now went over to the trailer's garage and the fridge fan is blowing its little brains out (side of trailer is 94 degrees and air coming out of top fridge vent is 109. Ceiling of 14' garage is 111).

            So I walked back to the house, saw a coyote, got stung by a bee, and picked up my new Clamp Meter.
            Unplugged the trailer from the outlet, waited for the gas to kick in and then measured 0.91A.
            YAY. That's good

            Comment

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