Harbor Freight Briefcase Solar Panel

[lkruper]

I understand not wanting to hear a generator at night even a quite one. That is also why I built a couple of solar/battery systems. Hindsight shows me that I should have just spent the money on the battery/inverter part instead of also getting battery pv panels at $2/watt.

Solar would be phase III (battery/inverter is II) which would give me extended coverage for longer outages if the gas ran out. But that is likely never to happen, so I will probably either never do it or make it primarily educational.

BTW, why are dual battery boxes so much more expensive that two singles?

[SunEagle]

I just had my manual transfer switch installed, and already have a 2000w inverter generator and two 5 gal cans of gas. For what I consider necessary to keep on during evening hours when the generator is not running (TV, internet) I have a peak of 99 W and can run all my loads for 7.3 hours on the 1 27DC battery. If I double the battery I can run at 24v and the system at that point is upgradeable to 4 6v 225 AH batteries in the future.

The batteries are not necessary, but I also did not like listening to the generator when the power went out for 8 hours last month when SCE had an emergency repair on a transformer. I expect El Nino to give me a higher percentage of chance of losing power this year.

I understand not wanting to hear a generator at night even a quite one. That is also why I built a couple of solar/battery systems. Hindsight shows me that I should have just spent the money on the battery/inverter part instead of also getting battery pv panels at $2/watt.

[lkruper]

I would say those batteries will probably be ok for your first set to "test and burn". They are probably not really deep cycle so will not last as long as some of the better FLA batteries.

Your last statement is what gets most people in trouble. If you purchase the hardware first and then determine what you true daily watt hour load later, like most people do, they end up getting rid of what they got and starting from scratch because their batteries are too small or they have gotten the wrong Charge controller and solar panel type.

Keep in mind that having your system just sitting there waiting for the grid to go down might be ok but the batteries will start to die even if you just keep them on a trickle charge.

If it was me I would invest in a quiet inverter type generator which would provide 1800 watt of power and pretty much sip gas the few times I would need it.

I just had my manual transfer switch installed, and already have a 2000w inverter generator and two 5 gal cans of gas. For what I consider necessary to keep on during evening hours when the generator is not running (TV, internet) I have a peak of 99 W and can run all my loads for 7.3 hours on the 1 27DC battery. If I double the battery I can run at 24v and the system at that point is upgradeable to 4 6v 225 AH batteries in the future.

The batteries are not necessary, but I also did not like listening to the generator when the power went out for 8 hours last month when SCE had an emergency repair on a transformer. I expect El Nino to give me a higher percentage of chance of losing power this year.

[SunEagle]

I am starting to spec out a system to give me minimal coverage at night at my grid-connected cabin if the power goes out and I don't want to listen to my generator. I found out the local Costco where I have a membership has 27DC Interstate 12v 120AH for $78.99 + $15 core. Amazon has a NOCO battery box for $18.21. I have an auto charger 2/6/12 amps to use for now and a NOCO 3.5 amp for maintenance. A Cotek S150w PSW is $139. So for $333 + wires, fuses, etc I can get my feet wet. What do you (or anyone else) know about the Costco Interstate batteries?

My second option is to take two of these batteries in series and the Cotek 24v PSW at the same price with a cheap golf cart charger (12/24/36/48) for $99.

But my plans change daily as I read more.

I would say those batteries will probably be ok for your first set to "test and burn". They are probably not really deep cycle so will not last as long as some of the better FLA batteries.

Your last statement is what gets most people in trouble. If you purchase the hardware first and then determine what you true daily watt hour load later, like most people do, they end up getting rid of what they got and starting from scratch because their batteries are too small or they have gotten the wrong Charge controller and solar panel type.

Keep in mind that having your system just sitting there waiting for the grid to go down might be ok but the batteries will start to die even if you just keep them on a trickle charge.

If it was me I would invest in a quiet inverter type generator which would provide 1800 watt of power and pretty much sip gas the few times I would need it.

[lkruper]

I may have posted them somewhere but here is the list of components. Most items were purchased from Amazon or eBay. I built this about 2 years ago.

80 watt folding solar panel including 10amp pwm charge controller and cabling. ~$250
12volt 65Ah Optima Blue Top battery. ~ $180
A Marine Battery Box that can accept a Group 24 or 27 battery ~ $35
Collapsing hand cart dolly ~ $40
2 x Orange storage hooks from HD ~ $6/ea
Cheap 250 watt inverter ~ $30
Grand total cost plus some blood sweat and tears ~ $550

First off I spent way too much on that 80 watt folding panel and I should have gotten at least a 100 watt for that 65Ah battery. So do the research and be picky on what you get.

I sized the system based on using if when I was out in the wilds so I could recharge my RC plane batteries. It now serves as my CPAP machine emergency power source if the grid goes down over night.

The battery is not light but with the hand cart and bungee cord I can role it a long way from the car with out too much trouble so IMO it is somewhat portable but not something for back packing.

I am starting to spec out a system to give me minimal coverage at night at my grid-connected cabin if the power goes out and I don't want to listen to my generator. I found out the local Costco where I have a membership has 27DC Interstate 12v 120AH for $78.99 + $15 core. Amazon has a NOCO battery box for $18.21. I have an auto charger 2/6/12 amps to use for now and a NOCO 3.5 amp for maintenance. A Cotek S150w PSW is $139. So for $333 + wires, fuses, etc I can get my feet wet. What do you (or anyone else) know about the Costco Interstate batteries?

My second option is to take two of these batteries in series and the Cotek 24v PSW at the same price with a cheap golf cart charger (12/24/36/48) for $99.

But my plans change daily as I read more.

[paul65k]

You know what is really sad is post like this we get a dozen times a day tells us our education system is extremely poor. Adults today have no basic math and science skills. Our public education system is producing morons not even capable of balancing a check book. Explains why NoBama won. People cannot even figure out Watts x Hours = Watt Hours. That means if they make $10 per hour have no clue what they make if the work 10 hours. I live in Panama and Jr. Highschool students can figure out simple energy precautions. It is simple 6th grade math.

So.......Maybe Congress can raise the "Minimum Output".............lol

[SunEagle]

SunEagle, how long ago did you put this together? Care to share the details of each component?

If you've posted the details on this forum, please give me the link.

I may have posted them somewhere but here is the list of components. Most items were purchased from Amazon or eBay. I built this about 2 years ago.

80 watt folding solar panel including 10amp pwm charge controller and cabling. ~$250
12volt 65Ah Optima Blue Top battery. ~ $180
A Marine Battery Box that can accept a Group 24 or 27 battery ~ $35
Collapsing hand cart dolly ~ $40
2 x Orange storage hooks from HD ~ $6/ea
Cheap 250 watt inverter ~ $30
Grand total cost plus some blood sweat and tears ~ $550

First off I spent way too much on that 80 watt folding panel and I should have gotten at least a 100 watt for that 65Ah battery. So do the research and be picky on what you get.

I sized the system based on using if when I was out in the wilds so I could recharge my RC plane batteries. It now serves as my CPAP machine emergency power source if the grid goes down over night.

The battery is not light but with the hand cart and bungee cord I can role it a long way from the car with out too much trouble so IMO it is somewhat portable but not something for back packing.

[Mike90250]

SunEagle, how long ago did you put this together? Care to share the details of each component?

If you've posted the details on this forum, please give me the link.

Here's the version I did with a 60W flexible PV panel to withstand the rigors of Burning Man, heavy but effective, I call it simply the Monolith
60W PV , C12 PWM controller , some fuse blocks , 300w pure sine inverter, space for 2 batteries - Group size 27

http://ae-zone.org/2009/09/mikes-mon...solar-systems/Mono_2005_CS_056.JPG

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1485191288541.2069021.1196643274&type=1&l=afceab33de

[RatedPG]

I put this system together for about $550.

SunEagle, how long ago did you put this together? Care to share the details of each component?

If you've posted the details on this forum, please give me the link.

[PNjunction]

Hang on there, turbo! I recognize caffeine overload when I see it. In the words of Cesar Millan, "tsschht".

[Sunking]

I tried that and got an extra 10 minutes of runtime on my cellphone! Had to drink more beer to fully charge.

You know what is really sad is post like this we get a dozen times a day tells us our education system is extremely poor. Adults today have no basic math and science skills. Our public education system is producing morons not even capable of balancing a check book. Explains why NoBama won. People cannot even figure out Watts x Hours = Watt Hours. That means if they make $10 per hour have no clue what they make if the work 10 hours. I live in Panama and Jr. Highschool students can figure out simple energy precautions. It is simple 6th grade math.

[PNjunction]

13 watts is about as much power as a good sized stinky Beer Fart.

I tried that and got an extra 10 minutes of runtime on my cellphone! Had to drink more beer to fully charge.

While the wattage is the same whether you are 12v or 5v usb output, the current when using a 5v output ends up being about 2.6a, maybe 2.1a when you throw in loss from the 5v step-down output. That charges most of today's gadgets at a normal rate.

At 12v charging a typical ups style agm, that equates to about 750ma (from 18v ocv), but still we are dealing with inefficient lead-acid charging as compared to going directly to a li-ion device.

But yes, there is a lot of junk solar-toy stuff out there.

[Sunking]

Harbor Firght is pure junk. A 13 watt panel is not even enough to charge cell phone. A good cell phone charger is 20 watts and that takes a day. Makes no difference iif it is Harbor Fright POS junk or top of the line, at 13 watts is about as much power as a good sized stinky Beer Fart.

[PNjunction]

I was searching online for a portable solar panel kit that my family and I could use to charge some of our basic electronics (think Cell phones, GPS, flashlight batteries) when we go camping.

That HF kit is a waste of time for charging cellphones and gps - and lugging a lot of lead around for that chore. Far easier is to use a 5v usb Anker 14w panel and li-ion battery packs, like Anker Astro. Charges faster - less to carry around especially a small junk agm. This isn't the 70's anymore.

I was wondering if I actually needed a charge controller or if I could just plug in a USB adapter in the female cigarette adapter and use that to charge some of my portable battery packs. I would use the battery packs to charge my devices. Any concerns with this setup?

Yes you DO need a charge controller, *especially* with the smaller batteries that this thing usually gets attached to. But how about destroying LARGE expensive batteries? Without a controller, it does that too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5RtZe9AW2E

Thing is, the non-controller advocates are banking on the fact that your big batteries are never really fully charged in the first place, so no harm happens. But when they ARE charged fully, even a 13 watt panel can KILL a good expensive bank! It really is DANGEROUS, but most people don't notice because their battery is either crap or never fully charged. While current is small, held long enough at high voltage you just eat up the positive plate by corroding it, and gas / vent it.

Save your money until you've read more. In the meantime, do yourself a favor and grab an Anker 14w panel, along with any other usb-input li-ion battery gadget.

For more extensive 12v gear, do more reading and less linking.

[SunEagle]

Quick Question??................Did you even read the freakin' reviews about this item on the HF website???Here is the VERY FIRST review posted on the website;

Comments about THUNDERBOLT MAGNUM SOLAR 13 Watt Briefcase Solar Charger:This item requires a "charger controller" It would be better to show one and indicate that it's not included, but required & that it's sold separately. That would be more helpful that showing a drill (that's not included).Maybe even offer a packaged deal with an appropriate sized controller and a solar panel kit

At 13 watts that panel is nothing more than a battery trickle charger which doesn't really need a charge controller because it won't be putting out that much in the way of charging amps.

It probably could run a small wattage device on 12volts or even one of those 5v USB chargers that goes into a cigarette lighter plug. But it will certainly not get you much charging capacity even if you kept it pointed directly at the sun all day.