Newbie - Can my 48V chinese controller charge my 12V battery bank in my motorhome?

[Tiffany H]

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Was not aware of that, thank you

[SunEagle]

One of the super mods has to enable something on your acct. I can't do it.

Don't you love being demoted like me.

[Mike90250]

Hello new here. How do I lost a new thread?

One of the super mods has to enable something on your acct. I can't do it.

[carlcbilodeau]

Run do not walk away from that controller. You already wasted a boat load of money trying to cheap out. Don't repeat your mistakes.

His 60A controller is a 24V not 48V.

I know I should pay more. But it is difficult for me ....

The man does not sell PWM controller but it told me that PWM with a processor is not so bad. He said that someone like me that drive his motorhome only under good weather will have only a 10% gain over a PWM. He said his controllers make more difference when it is cold outside or early or late in the day. He use his controller in his chalet (secondary house) and it perform the best compare to a PWM when there is no cloud, a lot of snow outside to rebound the sun and very cold temperature. So he said the gain of more than 10% is acheived normally on cold weather which I will not see with my motorhome.

I am quite convince he does not sale a fake MPPT. But still, will it last long? This is the question.

[Sunking]

He said my two 305w panels should be in parallel on a 60 controller otherwise his controller would not take it and I would have to buy a more expensive one.

Run do not walk away from that controller. You already wasted a boat load of money trying to cheap out. Don't repeat your mistakes.

[carlcbilodeau]

This is a very sticky situation. The page in question lists Design Specifications. It is quite common to see a product say that it is designed to a particular UL standard, but that is just a self-certification, not an independent test.
Actual UL Listing, with testing done by a recognized independent lab (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab or NRTL), will result in the copyrighted UL mark being shown on the product and on the packaging.
So without further evidence of UL or CSA listing, I would say that it is not approved for use in the US or Canada.

I spoke with the seller for 30 minutes. Very good person. He is definitly a high electronic expert. He knows so well his Controllers.

He told me that for less than 50V it does not have to be UL or CSA certified. Someone from Ontario Canada already wrote him that he was not UL et CSA certified and he send to this guy by email the writen law showing that since there is no risk of electrifications, it does not have to be certified.

He is almost backordered now but he will receive controllers by boat by july 10.

He said I should take the 150A wattmeter for the 60A controller (because the wire are thicker) at 25$ and the 100A wattmeter for the 40A at 15$.

He said my two 305w panels should be in parallel on a 60 controller otherwise his controller would not take it and I would have to buy a more expensive one. He said that since my battery bank is 12v, it is better for me to be parallel than 24v because there is less conversion and I will loose less in the wire than in a bigger conversion from 48v to 12v.

I feel we can trust this man.

For those interested, call him before you order, he will give you good advices and computations.
mod note no advertising

[carlcbilodeau]

This is a very sticky situation. The page in question lists Design Specifications. It is quite common to see a product say that it is designed to a particular UL standard, but that is just a self-certification, not an independent test.
Actual UL Listing, with testing done by a recognized independent lab (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab or NRTL), will result in the copyrighted UL mark being shown on the product and on the packaging.
So without further evidence of UL or CSA listing, I would say that it is not approved for use in the US or Canada.

Thank you for the advice. I will wait a few more days to make my mind. I understand that we can not be 100% confident in this product since we are missing reviews from real power-users.

[inetdog]

Doing some research for these two on the internet:

For the 12v/24v 40A this document show UL1741 page 14.

For the 24/48Vdc 40Amp this document show also UL1741 page 16.

I know nothing about these things. Does it means it is ok for American market?

This is a very sticky situation. The page in question lists Design Specifications. It is quite common to see a product say that it is designed to a particular UL standard, but that is just a self-certification, not an independent test.
Actual UL Listing, with testing done by a recognized independent lab (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab or NRTL), will result in the copyrighted UL mark being shown on the product and on the packaging.
So without further evidence of UL or CSA listing, I would say that it is not approved for use in the US or Canada.

[carlcbilodeau]

The specifications look good and I do believe that the MPPT functionality is real.
Another thing which I look for for electrical products for North American use is either UL listing or CSA listing. I do not see that on any of the inexpensive controllers from unknown manufacturers.
So I have mixed feelings about this. If it were a GTI, requiring inspection and a permit, it would not pass, period.
For a DIY installation of a battery powered system, you could get away with it, but would you want to?

Bottom line: It is not nearly as bad a mistake as your first choice.

Doing some research for these two on the internet:

For the 12v/24v 40A this document show UL1741 page 14.

For the 24/48Vdc 40Amp this document show also UL1741 page 16.

I know nothing about these things. Does it means it is ok for American market?

[inetdog]

I am going to buy at least one of the SolarMate controller.

The seller is from Quebec like me. He also sells on eBay for USA.

See this page. It is in French but click the links and you will see the english specs and documentation.

On youtube there is a open box video. We see the big donut.

What is your opinion on this one?

The specifications look good and I do believe that the MPPT functionality is real.
Another thing which I look for for electrical products for North American use is either UL listing or CSA listing. I do not see that on any of the inexpensive controllers from unknown manufacturers.
So I have mixed feelings about this. If it were a GTI, requiring inspection and a permit, it would not pass, period.
For a DIY installation of a battery powered system, you could get away with it, but would you want to?

Bottom line: It is not nearly as bad a mistake as your first choice.

[carlcbilodeau]

I am going to buy at least one of the SolarMate controller.

The seller is from Quebec like me. He also sells on eBay for USA.

See this page. It is in French but click the links and you will see the english specs and documentation.

On youtube there is a open box video. We see the big donut.

What is your opinion on this one?

[Sunking]

I have the motorhome original converter and a Xantrex 2000w inverter. Would I need to change them? All my lights, fridge electronic and heating are 12v.

Stay with 12 volts.

[carlcbilodeau]

MPPT Output Current = Panel Wattage / Battery Voltage

600 watts / 14 volts = 42.8 amps
1200 watts / 28 volts = 42.8 amps
2400 watts / 56 volts = 42.8 amps.

Wire your 2 panels in series with a MS TS-MPPT-45 amp controller. I hope your batteries are at least 400 AH to handle that much charge current.


PWM Input Current = Output Current.

FWIW with 600 panel watts you should be using 24 volts. Less expensive and way more efficient.

Do you mean I could convert my motorhome from 12V to 24V? If this is possible and cheap what should I do?

I have the motorhome original converter and a Xantrex 2000w inverter. Would I need to change them? All my lights, fridge electronic and heating are 12v.

[Sunking]

Ok, I understand. I will bite the bullet. And I will go Morningstar to be safe because I don't trust anything now and I will never visit China, that's for sure now.

Among all the info I have got, I am mixed up about my needs. For my two 305w 24v panels in series for my 12V battery bank, how much amp my controller has to be? Does it really has to be 60A (12v x 60A = 720w)?

And for my 255w 24v panel? Does it has to be 25A (12v x 25A = 300w)?

Thanks in advance.

MPPT Output Current = Panel Wattage / Battery Voltage

600 watts / 14 volts = 42.8 amps
1200 watts / 28 volts = 42.8 amps
2400 watts / 56 volts = 42.8 amps.

Wire your 2 panels in series with a MS TS-MPPT-45 amp controller. I hope your batteries are at least 400 AH to handle that much charge current.


PWM Input Current = Output Current.

FWIW with 600 panel watts you should be using 24 volts. Less expensive and way more efficient.

[carlcbilodeau]

Yep you threw it right into the fire place.

DO NOT BUY ANY MORE PWM CONTROLERS

You are throwing money away. MPPT is a lot cheaper than PWM. A top of the line PWM controller will turn your 250 watt panel into a 100 watt panel. You have Grid Tied Panels which is a good thing. But it means you must use a real MPPT controller. Once you get above 200 panel watts, MPPT is much less expensive.

With PWM controllers you must use EXPENSIVE BATTERY PANELS. a 100 watt battery panel with PWM = 66 watts. It takes a 300 watt PWM system with EXPENSIVE BATTERY PANELS to equal a 200 watt MPPT system. A GT panel cost around $1/watt. Battery Panels $2 to $6/watt.

a 300 watt PWM system will cost you anywhere from $700 to $1000.

A 200 watt MPPT system will cost you $350 to $550.

Bite the bullet and buy a quality MPPT controller. They will cost $6 to $10 per amp. A 15 amp MPPT controller will cost $190, 45 amp around $400, and 96 amp around $600. Much less expensive than cheap Chi-Com POS than you are buying.

Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 at 12 volts which is silly can input 600 watts, 1200 watts at 24 volt, and 2400 watts @ 48 volts. They cost $350 to $400.

Mornistar TS-MPPT-60 cost $450

Top of the Line Midnite Solar Classic 150 is a 96 amp controller and cost $600 up to 5200 watt input at 48 volt battery.

Ok, I understand. I will bite the bullet. And I will go Morningstar to be safe because I don't trust anything now and I will never visit China, that's for sure now.

Among all the info I have got, I am mixed up about my needs. For my two 305w 24v panels in series for my 12V battery bank, how much amp my controller has to be? Does it really has to be 60A (12v x 60A = 720w)?

And for my 255w 24v panel? Does it has to be 25A (12v x 25A = 300w)?

Thanks in advance.