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  • DavisGH
    started a topic Set Up Advices

    Set Up Advices

    Hello everyone,
    This probably sounds vary silly to you guys. but please help. New to solar, New to electric and trying to do it myself.
    I have a Lensun 100W 12V Black Fiberglass Semi-Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel from Amazon
    (https://www.amazon.com/Lensun-Fiberglass-Semi-Flexible-Monocrystalline-Motorhomes/dp/B01HA4TVLM)
    Learned that the wire comes with it is vary short with MC4 connector with them.
    I plan to install this panel on my van, just to power my mini fridge continousely (Whynter 65 Quart Portable Fridge Freezer)
    (http://www.whynter.com/wp-content/up...on-Chart-1.pdf)

    One of PWM Solar Panel Controller from Ebay
    (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-24V-20-30...72.m2749.l2649)

    Please advice & questions:

    Understand the Benefits of PV wire(temperature and water resistance) , however, I will drill a hole right under the wire form the solar panel into the car (the wire comes with the solar panel is long enough to get into the car). Do you guys think if I can do just fine using apple computer extensions cord from apple inside my van to the battery,( Yes, that is right, Just have too many of them in my house right now, I would like to utilize them)

    What are your guys suggestion on battery, I am thinking to get 2 6-v c 105 re batteries. Yes. I may use this system to power 2 12-v fan if I happen to sleep in my van
    (http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/dat...ata_Sheets.pdf)

    Do you guys think this would be an overkill setup for the Whynter 65 Quart Portable Fridge Freezer? only one applicaton my van. Or I should just get 1 12-v gel cell, AGE. or battery, which require less maintenance.

    Thank you.
    Attached Files

  • Mike90250
    replied
    re:Apple Ext Cord
    I cannot tell from a photo, what gauge (size) the conductors are. Generally computer cables are very lightweight and only carry data, not power. So YOU have to measure or somehow discover the size of the wires and if they are large enough to :
    a) safely carry the current
    b) have low enough resistance to be able to deliver enough power to the charge controller

    Leave a comment:


  • DavisGH
    replied
    Hi @Mike90250, appreciated the quick reply. You may already answer this question, after you looking at the apple cord, your suggestion is still "No, don't use extensions cord for this purpose."?
    Can you please show me how can we test if the conductor of the wire is sufficient enough gauge? (Purchased a multi-meter today, would like to learn some tricks if we can test it with multi-meter.)
    While I the tested I did today(I really don't know what exactly I was doing, just watching youtube videos see other people setting their vans), would you say the resistance too hight? The cord is 6 feet long, how much voltage drop are considered pass the tests for the solar system ? will run the tests tomorrow again. Just to make sure. Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • max2k
    replied
    Originally posted by DavisGH View Post
    Thank you for the information @Mike90250, Would like to show you the apple extension cord . I cut the cord already(please see the pictures, there are 3 small wires in one big cord) and attach one whole cord as positive, then other cored as negative use the multiple-meter, tested today. seems like the voltage doesn't drop much(0.8) comparing directly out the MC4 connecter.

    Thank you for the calculation walkthrough, but how can you tell it is a 50W fridge, I would like to know how you calculate, so I can calculate the cooler myself @max2k, (although I am switching to a cooler) I realized 40​​ qt cooler will do the job just fine since I don't need to freeze anything, just to keep the milk cool and some drink. which requires less investments and fits my need more closely. I live in San Diego if that matter a lot.
    Thank you guys again.
    I went to manufacturer site and there it is listed as 75W although specifies 12V/4.5A which is 12 x 4.5 = 54W or 24V/2.5A = 60W so I'd just take 75W where I used 50W in my calculations.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike90250
    replied
    The wire conductors need to be of a sufficient gauge to safely carry the power. If their resistance is too high, your battery will charge slower than expected.

    Leave a comment:


  • DavisGH
    replied
    Thank you for the information @Mike90250, Would like to show you the apple extension cord . I cut the cord already(please see the pictures, there are 3 small wires in one big cord) and attach one whole cord as positive, then other cored as negative use the multiple-meter, tested today. seems like the voltage doesn't drop much(0.8) comparing directly out the MC4 connecter.

    Thank you for the calculation walkthrough, but how can you tell it is a 50W fridge, I would like to know how you calculate, so I can calculate the cooler myself @max2k, (although I am switching to a cooler) I realized 40​​ qt cooler will do the job just fine(good review of it) since I don't need to freeze anything, just to keep the milk cool and some drink. which requires less investments and fits my need more closely. I live in San Diego if that matter a lot.
    Thank you guys again.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by DavisGH; 08-09-2017, 02:59 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • max2k
    replied
    Originally posted by DavisGH View Post
    ...
    I have a Lensun 100W 12V Black Fiberglass Semi-Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel from Amazon
    *****
    Learned that the wire comes with it is vary short with MC4 connector with them.
    I plan to install this panel on my van, just to power my mini fridge continousely (Whynter 65 Quart Portable Fridge Freezer)
    ****
    [ATTACH]temp_9724_1502062354046_384[/ATTACH]
    ...
    sounds like 50W fridge. Running 6 hrs a day would require 50 x 6 = 300 Wh of energy. Given your charge controller type it would require 600 Wh from PV source meaning 6 hours of full sunlight. Either your fridge is going to run less frequently or you'd need another panel as that much sun barely exists anywhere.

    How are you going to attach panel(s) to the roof? In general I'd avoid drilling the roof and would run wire along the roof to some side where I could make drip loop before entering the van. When mounting batteries in the van you'd need to ensure they are well secured so they won't slide off and destroy everything inside your van in case of hard braking.
    Last edited by Mike90250; 08-07-2017, 09:18 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike90250
    replied
    Whoa
    Don't drill anything yet !

    Apple cords are not rated to carry the power of a PV panel, and you will be unhappy.

    Leave a comment:

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