Possible encapsulation material?

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    Originally posted by DeltaFox 25
    Don't you think that it would be bad for your cell's
    maybe not, alcohol is a hydrocarbon, and it's used to wash cells clean at the factory.

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  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    Don't you think that it would be bad for your cell's

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  • longwolf
    replied
    Originally posted by DeltaFox 25
    ..... mineral spirits will burn just like any hydrocarbon-based solvent......
    That I can't argue with

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  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    irritant. It also receives a class 3 flammability rating; once its relatively high flashpoint is reached, mineral spirits will burn just like any hydrocarbon-based solvent, thereby emitting dangerous toxins

    This is mineral spirits

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  • longwolf
    replied
    Originally posted by DeltaFox 25
    )

    I think your mineral spirits has a good chance of hurting your cell's
    So far my cells have been in the CS, cut with mineral spirits, for over an month
    and there hasn't been any degradation in the panels output. But I'll post updates as I find them.
    My biggest concern is it's fairly low heat tolerance. But so far that hasn't been a problem either.

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  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    )

    Mineral Spirits, also called Stoddard solvent [CAS 8052-41-3][1], is a petroleum distillate commonly used as a paint thinner and mild solvent. Outside of the United States and Canada, it is referred to as white spirit. In industry, mineral spirits is used for cleaning and degreasing machine tools and parts. According to Wesco, a supplier of solvents and cleaning equipment, mineral spirits "are especially effective in removing oils, greases, carbon, and other material from metal." Mineral spirits may also be used in conjunction with cutting oil as a thread cutting and reaming lubricant.

    I think your mineral spirits has a good chance of hurting your cell's

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  • tlgoose
    replied
    update on panel

    Anyone trying to encapsulate with clear seal.What i`ve discovered is when you pour do a small pour just enough to cover cells.I poured about 4 tubes(15"x32" panel) mixed 50/50 and the cells kept rising up out of the cs over time.So do low pour and let dry first before adding any more to it.It does dry real clear.I`m on my second pour(3 more tubes@ 2/3 mix).I`ve got it on a glass top table so i can see through it.The mineral spirits soften up the first pour quite a bit and i have to keep pressing the cells back down.Very few bubbles noted but not completely dry yet and can still press them out.On the first pour when the cells rose it snapped off my soldered wire on the buss wire.Luckly i left enough wire on the end of the bus to clean it and resolder and then sink it into the cs.
    tlgoose

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  • tlgoose
    replied
    As soon as it sets up enough i`ll try a second pour.It seems to have stopped leaking for now but i`ve lost about a tube and a half during that time.I ended up suspending it on sockets to get it up off the table.I think next panel i`ll try one tube at a time and let it set longer between pours(if i do another).I`ve got enough $$ into this where i could almost buy a panel outright(around $80. into it).

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    Originally posted by Minnesota
    One thing I have not heard discussed is spraying the cell strings thoroughly with a quick-drying "harmless" silicon spray like http://www.3inone.com/products/silicone-spray/ then using a dab of .......
    This is a LUBE, it is not a sealer. Once any silicone lube gets on ANYTHING, it will act as mold release, and no glue of any kind will ever stick to it.

    That's why silicone lubes are banned from jet aircraft, it will actually creep under good paint, and lift it off the base metal. Corrosion sets in, and it can never be cleaned and repainted.

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  • longwolf
    replied
    Originally posted by Minnesota
    One thing I have not heard discussed is spraying the cell strings thoroughly with a quick-drying "harmless" silicon spray like http://www.3inone.com/products/silicone-spray/ then using a dab of PV 804 to hold the cells to a rear piece of sturdy glass, lexan, or the plastic sheet of your choice. Top sheet of glass or lexan held to the compatible back piece with PV 804. Small airgap, but ventilate it like an aircraft window with a small back vent hole if necessary. Cell and conductor corrosion avoided at virtually no cost.
    Hum, interesting idea. If you try it, let us know how it goes.

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  • longwolf
    replied
    Originally posted by tlgoose
    Longwolf,
    I had issues with my pour(cs)..........
    Sorry to hear it tlgoose.
    Do you think you can just pour another coat over the back?

    ------------
    My panel has been up on my van for 3, maybe 4 weeks now.
    We just had a couple of days of rain here, then a couple of dry days.
    I decided to check my panel. There were no signs of vapor in in the large bubbles between the cells and glass. I went to lift the panel so I could check the backs of the cells. One of the power wires had stuck to the CS near the center of a cell. When I tugged on it, a 1/4 inch piece of the cell broke. Looking are the front of the panel, I had a new bubble were the cell had broken.
    It turns out that the CS under the cells is still very liquid, I could even smell the mineral spirits in it. Looking at the tops of the cells you can see that there's a 1/2 inch wide ring around each of them where the cells have darkened/ discolored. I believe the darkened area is were the CS has dried.
    It doesn't seem to have harmed the panel. In fact I took my highest reading yet, 20.2 volts @ 7.9 amps. But it does look like it will take months for the CS to dry completely.

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  • Minnesota
    replied
    One thing I have not heard discussed is spraying the cell strings thoroughly with a quick-drying "harmless" silicon spray like http://www.3inone.com/products/silicone-spray/ then using a dab of PV 804 to hold the cells to a rear piece of sturdy glass, lexan, or the plastic sheet of your choice. Top sheet of glass or lexan held to the compatible back piece with PV 804. Small airgap, but ventilate it like an aircraft window with a small back vent hole if necessary. Cell and conductor corrosion avoided at virtually no cost.

    Leave a comment:


  • tlgoose
    replied
    Longwolf,
    I had issues with my pour(cs).I made my aluminum frame and sealed lexan to it with clear seal and weights.Then i sealed all edges.I bought 4 tubes of cs and mixed it well.Then i poured my sc.I then used a foot massager under the table and vibed all the air pockets out.Seemed to work rather well.When i checked on it an hour later,it leaked out about a tubes worth from 2 sides.At this point i don`t dare move it at all until it`s firm.I`m hoping i`ll be able to remove most on the sealant from the front face.If not it looks like i`ll be able to read the daily news through my panel.Lesson well learned.Seal the living daylights out of the frame before pour.If you think it`s sealed,seal again.I did use 50/50 mix and i think the mineral spirits broke down the sealer for the face plate.I`m glad it was a small panel but i`m still out alot of $$.When it drys i`ll repost the full outcome.
    tlgoose

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  • knowyourplanet
    replied
    Originally posted by Sizz
    How do you know this?
    Hi, I have spoken to Silicones INC technical support, the product P-4 is not UV resistant and not designed with UV resistance in mind (or PV application) and will yellow in time.

    For further details about qsil 216 and its applications, see the following PDF.



    Qsil 216 was specifically developed for high intensity solar potting to optimise the output of the cells.

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  • Sizz
    replied
    Originally posted by knowyourplanet
    I do not believe this compound is UV stable and would yellow over time unlike Sylgard 184 and Qsil 216
    How do you know this?

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