Grid-Tied Solar Panels & Backup Generator Electrical Hookup

[Mike90250]

just find a closely appropriate section, and ask away. Often somebody else will benift too

[Airborne]

PVAndy - I'm a retired Veteran, and although fairly computer literate, I've spent very little time on these sites (not sure what to call them - forums? bulletin boards? ...). My question is ... is there a way to ask you a question or communicate privately so I don't tie up time on these boards on something that maybe few others would have an interest in ... or just ask it "in the clear?"

[Airborne]

Good advice. I've been checking them out, and the Polaris multi-tap connectors you can get online at Home Depot. In looking at the ILSCO connectors, it appears I can select a straight section of wire between the meter and the panel, and they will allow me to connect the lines from my PV Array to the feeder lines from the meter without cutting those lines. I can't see a large picture, but from what I see it appears those KUP-L Tap connectors allow me to "tie in" a line to the main line without cutting it ... did I get that right?

[PVAndy]

Thanks so much PVAndy! That's exactly what I needed!

If you use those connectors, they must be used on a straight section of wire. Torque correctly. We’ve. Used thousands of them

[Airborne]

Thanks so much PVAndy! That's exactly what I needed!

[PVAndy]

PVAndy - I'll show my ignorance ... what is "OD the connection" and can you explain a little more about how you do this, and with what "lugs" or other items you use? It sounds like that is the way to go.

A type should be do. You can use Ilsco connectors on the supply wires if you don't have dual terminals, https://tinyurl.com/y3j26l3q

Andy

[Airborne]

PVAndy - I'll show my ignorance ... what is "OD the connection" and can you explain a little more about how you do this, and with what "lugs" or other items you use? It sounds like that is the way to go.

[PVAndy]

Yep. PVAndy has it right. Ampster, by the way - I actually saw that information on Eaton and called their tech support department. They acted like what I was doing was new news to them, and said they hadn't built a panel that would work! Go figure! This is a brand new installation, so I'm free to do what I want in terms of panels, connection boxes, where I hang them on the wall, etc. So essentially I'm an artist with a blank canvas, and I get to paint what I want, within guidelines handed down by the NEC and local government here in California.

So I think PVAndy has it right ... I do a fused disconnect supply side connection on the line side of the ATS in some type of a connection box, and then I'm good, and I don't have to de-rate my Main Breaker Panel. Thanks for the feedback to both of you. I've gotten a LOT smarter on this in the past 48 hours, and appreciate both of you taking the time to respond. If anyone else has thoughts, jump in!

Thanks, you don't need a separate box, just od the connection either on the lugs or with insulation piercing lugs on the supply wires. We do this all the time

Andy

[CycloneFW]

I think that would work great CycloneFW ... I just need to get the outdoor-rated version. Thanks for the tip!

No problem. Gotta thank Ampster and others as their prodding in my thread led me to searching for “solar ready panels”, which I found to be more than I wanted to spend. However, by chance, I searched for 225 amp without the “solar ready” keyword and voila, that’s the panel I found.

FYI, even though I bought it from Home Depot, it was shipped directly from Eaton to me via FedEx Ground.

[Airborne]

I think that would work great CycloneFW ... I just need to get the outdoor-rated version. Thanks for the tip!

[CycloneFW]

I am preparing for my solar install and upgraded to the Eaton BRP42BC225 panel I bought at Home Depot. It came with a 225 amp breaker, but brand new on eBay from another person’s derate got me a 200 amp main breaker for another $35.

Now, it’s a 42-space, 84-circuit panel, so you can see if they have a smaller one for your needs. Btw, it also has copper bus bars vs. aluminum. My install just completed a few hours ago and is await a rough-in inspection.

Would this panel work as your main and make feed the ATS, which then feeds the subpanel that is the “main” for the house?

[Ampster]

I rarely see an installation in California with a meter separate from the service panel so I could not go outside the box in my thinking. Andy also has had experience with Generac.,

[Airborne]

Yep. PVAndy has it right. Ampster, by the way - I actually saw that information on Eaton and called their tech support department. They acted like what I was doing was new news to them, and said they hadn't built a panel that would work! Go figure! This is a brand new installation, so I'm free to do what I want in terms of panels, connection boxes, where I hang them on the wall, etc. So essentially I'm an artist with a blank canvas, and I get to paint what I want, within guidelines handed down by the NEC and local government here in California.

So I think PVAndy has it right ... I do a fused disconnect supply side connection on the line side of the ATS in some type of a connection box, and then I'm good, and I don't have to de-rate my Main Breaker Panel. Thanks for the feedback to both of you. I've gotten a LOT smarter on this in the past 48 hours, and appreciate both of you taking the time to respond. If anyone else has thoughts, jump in!

[Ampster]

I don't think of the above answers are correct He's installing a whole house ATS ahead of the main panel Just do a fused disconnect supply side connection on the line side of the ATS.

Rereading his post I see that the meter may be separate from the Main panel and an ATS was going between the meter and his main panel. If I understand you correctly the fused disconnect for the solar would be on the supply (line side) of the ATS so when the grid is down the inverters are isolated from the generator.
The 200 Amp ATS is $700 versus $300 for a 100 Amp switch but it is much simpler than a subpanel.

[PVAndy]

Hey, Airborne, that is what I have been alluding to with a solar ready panel. I knew the concept but don't have the tools to do the calculation without spending a lot of time.

Acording to this link
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catal...r-centers.html
Their Solar Ready panel is designed to do that without derating. "Up to 225A rated copper bussing maximizes solar source up to 70A for standard units. "
I tend to trust reputable manufacturers specs more than sales people but I would verify with an electrician or anyone who understands the NEC calculations better than I do. I could look it up and spend some time understanding more than the concept but those are details that I don't store very well so I will leave that up to you.

I still think you would be wise to use a sub panel in conjunction with the transfer switch for loads that you know can be supported by the generator and to isolate it from the GT solar. That may also be a recommendation of Generac anyway. As a personal preference I like my breakers on an interior wall so I can lock my main panel for security and can get to my load breakers in the middle of the night if there is an outage that I need to check. That is also where my hybrid inverter is located..

I don't think of the above answers are correct He's installing a whole house ATS ahead of the main panel Just do a fused disconnect supply side connection on the line side of the ATS.

Andy