Soldering: is it a good investment?

[mj52]

Hi,

I'll need to make up a few cables using #8 wire. I have a ratcheting crimper with the appropriate die but am curious if soldeing after crimping is a good idea.

If it is a good idea what type of solder and flux should I use? I have solder and flux with my plumbing stuff but I'm not sure if one is as good as any?

Mike

[bcroe]

Hi,
I'll need to make up a few cables using #8 wire. I have a ratcheting crimper with the appropriate
die but am curious if soldeing after crimping is a good idea.

If it is a good idea what type of solder and flux should I use? I have solder and flux with my plumbing
stuff but I'm not sure if one is as good as any? Mike

Don't use plumbing solder on electrical equipment. Soldering can be used to rescue a poor quality job, but it
shouldn't be necessary. It stiffens the wire in the vicinity of the joint. Bruce Roe

[mj52]

Thank You,

I hope I never have to rescue anything but in case what type of solder and flux would you suggest? I thought i read something along the line that some soldering may introduce an acid into the joint and may cause issues? If it doesn't cost an arm and a leg I'll just bag and tag and throw it in the box named Solar

I figure best to ask first.

Mike

[foo1bar]

Thank You,

I hope I never have to rescue anything but in case what type of solder and flux would you suggest? I thought i read something along the line that some soldering may introduce an acid into the joint and may cause issues? If it doesn't cost an arm and a leg I'll just bag and tag and throw it in the box named Solar

Plumbing solder is usually an acid flux core.
Electric solder is usually rosin flux core.
You should be able to find electric solder at Radio Shack or Home Depot or other similar stores. (I just looked at homedepot.com and see they have 60/40 solder - didn't realize that could still get lead based solder)

The problem I've had when doing larger wires is getting enough heat into the wire in the part to be soldered while not melting the insulation.

[emartin00]

If you are using the correct wire, connector, and die you will never have to solder the joint. These connections are designed to hold about 100 pounds (on #8). The connection will last for years. If it isn't crimped correctly, you're better off removing the connector and replacing it with a new, properly crimped on.

[mj52]

Thanks,

I just looked up the cost of rosin solder from an electrical supply house. It isn't cheap.

Soldering isn't an absolute necessity 1lb roll is expensive and I have a proper crimping tool.

On to next item.


Mike

[Mike90250]

If you are using the correct wire, connector, and die you will never have to solder the joint. These connections are designed to hold about 100 pounds (on #8). The connection will last for years. If it isn't crimped correctly, you're better off removing the connector and replacing it with a new, properly crimped on.

Ditto. Do NOT solder crimped connections. It invalidates the UL listing, and as solder wicks along the wire, it creates a stiff spot that will quickly break with very little vibration or movement.
But you need a hydraulic crimper or a 48" compression lever to make proper gas tight crimps on #4 and larger wires

[Sunking]

DO NOT SOLDER. End of story.

[foo1bar]

Thanks,

I just looked up the cost of rosin solder from an electrical supply house. It isn't cheap.

Really?

2-4oz (which would last quite a long while) should be under $10.


But the other people's advice on solder wicking up the wire and that being a problem if there's repeated movement on the wire is true.

[mj52]

I PROMISE,

I'm not going to solder.
I bought a good ratcheting crimper and will stick with that.


Thanks, Mike