12v/ 24v systems

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  • sarah2014
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2014
    • 3

    12v/ 24v systems

    Hi,
    I'm new to Solar and am really interested. I have 6 *100 watt solar panels 18v 5.5 amps. And 6 12v* 100amp batteries. My controller is PWM 12/24v 40a controller. I am now looking for inverter and confused to go 12v or 24v. What would give me a sronger system 12v or 24v.
    Thanks,
    Sarah
  • inetdog
    Super Moderator
    • May 2012
    • 9909

    #2
    Originally posted by sarah2014
    Hi,
    I'm new to Solar and am really interested. I have 6 *100 watt solar panels 18v 5.5 amps. And 6 12v* 100amp batteries. My controller is PWM 12/24v 40a controller. I am now looking for inverter and confused to go 12v or 24v. What would give me a sronger system 12v or 24v.
    Thanks,
    Sarah
    For that level of panel and battery, you would be much better off with a 24 volt system. The lower current will make your wiring easier.

    Unfortunately, if you want to use all six batteries you will end up putting three strings of two batteries each in parallel. That is a lot better than putting six batteries in parallel, but is still not ideal.

    To use your charger to output 24 volts you will need to also wire your batteries in series strings of two each and then put the three strings in parallel to the charge controller (CC) input. That will be fine.
    For your amount of panel power, if you had not already purchased the PMW CC I would have recommended an MPPT model. allowing you to wire more panels in series and giving a higher conversion efficiency for power from the panels to the batteries.

    For a 600 watt panel system, starting from scratch, an MPPT controller and four 6 volt 200+ AH batteries in series to produce 24 volts would have been a better way to go.

    For the inverter, the first thing you need to know is what your power loads will actually be and whether they will tolerate a MSW (modified square wave) output or will need a PSW (pure sine wave) output. Motors and some electronics will usually work better with PSW.

    These are just a few highlights. There are some good sticky threads on system sizing that go into much more detail.
    Last edited by inetdog; 01-31-2014, 05:53 PM. Reason: Thought 24, wrote 12. :(
    SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

    Comment

    • Sunking
      Solar Fanatic
      • Feb 2010
      • 23301

      #3
      For that level of panel wattage and battery 24 volts is the right choice. It will lower the current and allow smaller wiring.
      MSEE, PE

      Comment

      • porrascarlos80
        Junior Member
        • Feb 2014
        • 23

        #4
        sorry friends, I may need more clarification on wiring difference between 12/24v systems.
        "The lower current will make your wiring easier. "

        would you please share more information about that , maybe a comparison?

        I dont really understand the difference , guessing awg # changes between systems?


        tks!

        Comment

        • bcroe
          Solar Fanatic
          • Jan 2012
          • 5203

          #5
          Originally posted by porrascarlos80
          I may need more clarification on wiring difference between 12/24v systems.
          "The lower current will make your wiring easier. "

          Would you please share more information about that, maybe a comparison? I don't
          really understand the difference, guessing awg # changes between systems? tks!
          There are 2 basic issues on the conductor sizes. One that always must be observed, is
          current capacity. Running 240W at 24V involves 10A (POWER = VOLTAGE X CURRENT),
          so you need wire big enough for 10A. Building the system at 12V involves 20A, so the
          conductors must be rated twice the current.

          HOWEVER, running the 12V system with twice as heavy wire means you will have the
          same voltage drop (loss) in the wire as the 24V system (Ohms law). Twice the current
          at the same voltage loss means you have doubled your wire power losses. To get back
          to the same efficiency (power loss), you need to double the wire size again, to have
          half the voltage drop at twice the current. That is, the higher voltage system reduces
          the amount of copper needed dividing by the SQUARE of the voltage, for the same losses.

          Bruce Roe

          Comment

          • Sunking
            Solar Fanatic
            • Feb 2010
            • 23301

            #6
            BCROE I fully understand what you are saying, but it could be explained a little easier. For example a 20 amp circuit for safety and to meet code is a #12 AWG copper. But for low voltage under 120 volts is uselsss unless the length is extremely short.

            The most important aspect is voltage drop and keeping it to 2 or 3 % or less. So the lower you go in voltage, the larger diameter cable it will take to acheive it which means it gets real expensive real fast.

            Real life example a very simple 12 volt 100 watt gizmo circuit that is say 40 feet one way distance. Current is relatively low at 9 amps and to meet NEC compliance you can use the smallest allowed of #14 AWG which is good for 15 amps. However at 12 volts 40 feet with 14 AWG would induce 15% voltage drop resulting in 10 volts at the gizmo which it may not even work or work poorly if a light. To get to 2% would require a # 4 AWG. Now stop and think about that you went from a inexpensive 14 AWG conductor costing some 9-cents per foot, to using #4 AWG costing 85-cents per foot.

            24 volt is 200% better but no bargain as it would require 8 AWG copper costing 35-cemts per foot.

            So be careful what you folks ask for as you will get it. You might think low voltage is gaining you something, but is far from reality. Low voltage is terrible inefficient and expensive. Only people gaining anything is your copper wire dealer laughing all the way to the bank with your wasted cash.

            That same cheap 9-cent per foot 14 AWG operating at 120 volts to full current capacity of 15 amps or 1800 watts aint so bad after all. UK is even better as they use 240 volts which ups power to 3600 watts. You low voltage guys have to suffer with 100 watts limitation. You would have to own a copper mine to get 3600 watts.
            MSEE, PE

            Comment

            • bcroe
              Solar Fanatic
              • Jan 2012
              • 5203

              #7
              Voltage vs transmission efficiency

              Originally posted by Sunking
              BCROE I fully understand what you are saying, but it could be explained a little easier.

              Only people gaining anything is your copper wire dealer laughing all the way to the bank with your wasted cash.
              Right, left out the part about the copper wire dealer laughing. By contrast, today at 390VDC I sent
              16KW 100 yards with 1.4% loss. In 10 hr 44 min made AC 105 KWH, a record here. Bruce

              Comment

              • porrascarlos80
                Junior Member
                • Feb 2014
                • 23

                #8
                experts,

                now what happen if you put panels in series until you get 120V DC , and you just rectify that voltage into AC, would that be possible?

                I think the AC would be modified wave or something like that with interference and voltaje might be unstable, besides that anything else? .

                Comment

                • bcroe
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 5203

                  #9
                  String

                  Originally posted by porrascarlos80
                  experts, now what happens if you put panels in series until you
                  get 120V DC, and you just rectify that voltage into AC, would that be possible?

                  I think the AC would be modified wave or something like that with interference and voltage might
                  be unstable, besides that anything else?
                  Putting panels in series to get hundreds of volts is an efficient way to allow moving the power
                  some distance; here called a "string". The exact voltage will vary considerably depending on
                  load and temperature; these typically feed a "string inverter" operating at the most efficient
                  voltage & current. The inverter is used to feed a regulated AC voltage to a grid connect, or
                  a charge controller could feed it into a battery system. "Rectify" changes AC to rough DC, here
                  you want to go the other way. Bruce Roe

                  Comment

                  • Sunking
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Feb 2010
                    • 23301

                    #10
                    Originally posted by porrascarlos80
                    experts,

                    now what happen if you put panels in series until you get 120V DC , and you just rectify that voltage into AC, would that be possible?

                    I think the AC would be modified wave or something like that with interference and voltaje might be unstable, besides that anything else? .
                    Yes that can be done and is done. The issue is batteries as not many manufactures offer higher voltage batteries. 48 volts is it with most manufactures.

                    However there is one manufacture that does and they happen to be the best called Midnite Solar and they make a model # 250KS. It provides for up to 120 VDC battery, and the input voltage of 250 volts + Battery Voltage. So in theory you can input as high as 370 volts with a 120 volt battery.
                    MSEE, PE

                    Comment

                    • porrascarlos80
                      Junior Member
                      • Feb 2014
                      • 23

                      #11
                      amazing information sunking! I see other problem, inverter prices. those ones seems to be costly versions.

                      thanks for the information

                      Comment

                      • Sunking
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Feb 2010
                        • 23301

                        #12
                        Originally posted by porrascarlos80
                        amazing information sunking! I see other problem, inverter prices. those ones seems to be costly versions.

                        thanks for the information
                        Don't let the price of higher voltage inverters throw you off the trail. If you do that you cannot see the forest because trees blind your vision. Bottom line cost is what you look at and efficiency. The higher inverter price is more than offset by savings gained in smaller wiring and less hardware.
                        MSEE, PE

                        Comment

                        • porrascarlos80
                          Junior Member
                          • Feb 2014
                          • 23

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Sunking
                          Don't let the price of higher voltage inverters throw you off the trail. If you do that you cannot see the forest because trees blind your vision. Bottom line cost is what you look at and efficiency. The higher inverter price is more than offset by savings gained in smaller wiring and less hardware.
                          Thank you Master!

                          Comment

                          • Sunking
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 23301

                            #14
                            Originally posted by porrascarlos80
                            Thank you Master!
                            Well you are welcome, but my name is Dereck.
                            MSEE, PE

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