P.S. I have a multi directional system, installed Oct 1, balancing direction and shading trying to fill the best areas. I took time lapse pictures starting a year ago to see what the shade was doing on different parts of the roof. I ended up with:
3.6 kw facing 115 at 45 tilt. (almost no shade) (1,167 kWh per kW @ no shade)
5.4 kw facing 190 at 36 tilt. (a lot of shade Nov-Jan) (1,356 kWh per kW @ no shade)
9.0 kw facing 295 at 26 tilt. (no shade at all) (974 kWh per kW @ no shade)
The last section wouldn't be as cost efficient all by itself, but with no shade, and the "base system" (electric work, permits and invertor) already paid for, adding those panels should work out in the long run.
In another 9 months I'll know for sure if the modeling worked out.
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calculating north tilt vs afternoon tree shading
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Last edited by Yogi6262; 12-15-2016, 06:45 PM. -
It depends on where you relocated, but based on 41.7 north (Chicago), 1K of panels at 10 degrees tilt facing north is 1,036 Kwh a year. Facing south is 1,223 kwh. Not a HUGE difference. But you would have to have complete shading from November to February to bring the south facing panel down to what you get with the north panels with no shade.
So, go outside on the next sunny day. Will the south roof get any sun in December? It sounds like mostly south is just fine, and the ones facing north should be ok too.Leave a comment:
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Forgot to add. I tried to buy a used S. P. F. or rent one but could not find either.Leave a comment:
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Just a DYI guy with my 2 bits. Solar Shading app for $16.00 has helped me to lay out my 8.4 system. And you can go to Univ. of Oregon SRML and make a Elevation and Azimuth angle gauge to map out the suns path for the full year. Probably not as accurate as a Solar Path finder but a lot cheaper for a one time use.Leave a comment:
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I was nearly fully shaded by my neighbor's trees from in December from 11 am onwards because of the low sun in the sky, until they topped off the trees more than a year ago. I'm still shaded after 2 pm, but gaining full sun from 11 am-2 pm only increased my December production from 150 kwh to 230 kwh or so, a 50% percentage jump, but 80 kwh increase is only a tiny fraction of my annual 5,000 kwh production.
The reason it had so little difference is that December is already the lowest production month, but also there's more fog, morning cloud cover, storms that month. So shading doesn't matter if it's cloudy or rainy. So optimizing layout for December sunlight after 2 pm sounds unproductive, vs optimizing for peak summer production. On top of that, if your POCO pricing is TOU and seasonal, a kwh of off-peak winter production is worth far less than a kwh of peak summer production.Leave a comment:
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If you have access to a Cad program its not that hard to setup up a shading simulation using US Naval Observatory Sun angle data and measurements you take around the house. I expect someone good at it could do it all in 3D but I just do hourly section elevations and bracket the dates where the suns angle doesn't line up with typical generation hours.
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If you have access to a Cad program its not that hard to setup up a shading simulation using US Naval Observatory Sun angle data and measurements you take around the house. I expect someone good at it could do it all in 3D but I just do hourly section elevations and bracket the dates where the suns angle doesn't line up with typical generation hours. I wish it was as easy to factor in sticky snow covering the panels (like I have currently on my roof mountsLeave a comment:
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I got mine A1 cond used on Eb+y for a substantial discount; spare parts were readily available. Had to order some scales
for my latitude; could probably get much of my money back the same way if I no longer needed it. I would say it has been
quite useful first in dealing with trees, and then for planning future layout changes (ground mount). Bruce Roe
Looking back, there was a prior thread that discussed the solar path finder with some talk of several homeowners sharing the cost. Also, it seems there are several places that will rent the device for what may be reasonable rates.Leave a comment:
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for my latitude; could probably get much of my money back the same way if I no longer needed it. I would say it has been
quite useful first in dealing with trees, and then for planning future layout changes (ground mount). Bruce Roe
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As an aside, shading analysis might be a decent/interesting sideline for someone in popular solar markets. On 2d thought, maybe not so much of a demand now that residential PV looks to be headed for a possible downturn, at least in the U.S.Leave a comment:
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A Solar Pathfinder or similar tool will allow you to see what time the sun is shadowed, at different times of the year, for a particular spot.
Move it around to see how other spots are affected. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
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I can go into it, but it's a bit complicated and take more space than available here. Basically it involves finding, with some tolerance, the angle of incidence, relative to some reference system, that an obstruction such as a tree, building or structure (think chimney) makes with a solar device, or some point on a solar device, and then comparing that to the solar incidence angle for that point for any time series over a year. That's pretty much how most such mathematical algorithms work in the simple sense. Unless your doing this as a learning experience, you're probably better off buying canned stuff. If you're doing it for the educational value, you'll learn a lot about solar geometry. Like a lot of this solar energy business, it's far from an exact science. For all my work, I got about as close with back of the envelope calcs and a protractor.Leave a comment:
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most design systems will do this for you.
Aurora, SolarDesigntool, Helioscop, etc.Leave a comment:
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is there a way to calculate where the shadow will be will based on the tree size (height width etc), how far it is from the house for each month of the year and time of the day?Leave a comment:
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