Faulty AC Disconnect? You guys ever seen that happen?

[Mb190e]

Seriously? The AC disconnect is a manual switch. It connects or disconnects a circuit when the switch is thrown.

Fused disconnects contain an over current protective device (OCPD), and their presence in Mb190e's post lends support to the idea that his disconnect may be part of a line side tap, as DanS26 suggested. The OCPD for the OP's inverter's AC circuit is the circuit breaker in the service panel.

Whoops brain fart, I'm not an electrician just trying to learn something new when I read this forum. You are correct mine has a line side tap. I forgot about other systems being backfed through a breaker.

[sensij]

How does the AC disconnect "disconnect" if there's an issue without any fuses? Here's a picture of my AC disconnect.

Seriously? The AC disconnect is a manual switch. It connects or disconnects a circuit when the switch is thrown.

Fused disconnects contain an over current protective device (OCPD), and their presence in Mb190e's post lends support to the idea that his disconnect may be part of a line side tap, as DanS26 suggested. The OCPD for the OP's inverter's AC circuit is the circuit breaker in the service panel.

[DanS26]

How does the AC disconnect "disconnect" if there's an issue without any fuses? Here's a picture of my AC disconnect.

I think he means the inverter will shut down.

It appears from your pic that the neutral and ground are bonded in the switch. If so, not code unless supply side tap.

[Mb190e]

Those spring blades that make the contacts, are deadly. The metal is good for 1 bend only, bend it again and it's on it's way to crack or fail. Get it on line as is, but order a replacement. When the contact is bad, it heats up and starts to oxidize and get hotter - but your PV will disconnect first and stop a fire, but it's not doing yourself any favors keeping it around.

How does the AC disconnect "disconnect" if there's an issue without any fuses? Here's a picture of my AC disconnect.

[HX_Guy]

Those spring blades that make the contacts, are deadly. The metal is good for 1 bend only, bend it again and it's on it's way to crack or fail. Get it on line as is, but order a replacement. When the contact is bad, it heats up and starts to oxidize and get hotter - but your PV will disconnect first and stop a fire, but it's not doing yourself any favors keeping it around.

I figure it should have some sort of warranty? I'll get a hold of the manufacturer.

[Mike90250]

Those spring blades that make the contacts, are deadly. The metal is good for 1 bend only, bend it again and it's on it's way to crack or fail. Get it on line as is, but order a replacement. When the contact is bad, it heats up and starts to oxidize and get hotter - but your PV will disconnect first and stop a fire, but it's not doing yourself any favors keeping it around.

[HX_Guy]

By clamp are you talking about a wire termination or the contacts that mate with the blades of the knife switch disconnect?
If the switch contacts got spread apart, I would at least look carefully to make sure that when I bent them back the flat or curved contact surfaces are aligned just like the others and that the spring tension holding the contacts against the blades is close to that of the other line connection.

Correct, the contact that made with the blades. The upper left contact was spread too far apart and the blade wasn't making good contact when it was switched on.

So just visually check it to make sure it looks the same as the others?

[SunEagle]

By clamp are you talking about a wire termination or the contacts that mate with the blades of the knife switch disconnect?
If the switch contacts got spread apart, I would at least look carefully to make sure that when I bent them back the flat or curved contact surfaces are aligned just like the others and that the spring tension holding the contacts against the blades is close to that of the other line connection.

Good idea. Chances are there is now more resistance on that left set of contacts.

If it was my installation I would just replace the switch with a new one. I would hate to see that whole system go up in smoke.

[inetdog]

I see what you mean now that you mentioned it. Nice job troubleshooting.

By clamp are you talking about a wire termination or the contacts that mate with the blades of the knife switch disconnect?
If the switch contacts got spread apart, I would at least look carefully to make sure that when I bent them back the flat or curved contact surfaces are aligned just like the others and that the spring tension holding the contacts against the blades is close to that of the other line connection.

[control4userguy]

Thank you guys for the OHM test suggestion...IT'S ALIVE!!

I wasn't getting any continuity across the left side with the disconnect on. Took a close look at the top clamp was too spread apart, took a screwdriver and bent it a little and boom, continuity restored! Everything is up and running and making POWER!

I see what you mean now that you mentioned it. Nice job troubleshooting.

[HX_Guy]

This disconnect is what was called out on the permit drawing, and while not industrial quality, it ought to be fine for this. The appearance in the posted picture matches the appearance in the catalog.

I agree that the connections do not look very good, and the grease on the blade is also worth questioning. Did it come already on the disconnect, or was it added by your installer?

The disconnect came with that grease.

[HX_Guy]

Thank you guys for the OHM test suggestion...IT'S ALIVE!!

I wasn't getting any continuity across the left side with the disconnect on. Took a close look at the top clamp was too spread apart, took a screwdriver and bent it a little and boom, continuity restored! Everything is up and running and making POWER!

[sensij]

That test may or may not be appropriate. I see two connections already that could be faulty. Are the conductors torqued properly at the lugs? Are the blades making contact and not through oxidation. That disconnect is not of higher-quality...

This disconnect is what was called out on the permit drawing, and while not industrial quality, it ought to be fine for this. The appearance in the posted picture matches the appearance in the catalog.

I agree that the connections do not look very good, and the grease on the blade is also worth questioning. Did it come already on the disconnect, or was it added by your installer?

[control4userguy]

That test may or may not be appropriate. I see two connections already that could be faulty. Are the conductors torqued properly at the lugs? Are the blades making contact and not through oxidation. That disconnect is not of higher-quality...

[SunEagle]

I'll give that a try, thanks.

Make sure the wires from both you solar inverter and the main panel are not energized when you take your resistance reading.